Battery has power but the camper does not
Getting ready for this weekends maiden voyage in our new camper this weekend. As I was getting everything ready I unplugged the camper and tried to use the slide out. Noticed that the entire rid exc...
Forum Discussion
First a comment:
IF the jack works properly (UP is UP, Down is Down) odds are good the battery was put in properly, at least as far as the negative wire is concerned.
Some folks, however, may connect the house power to the negative side (There is a good reason for this) If you have I will tell you how to fix it.
IF there is more than one lead on the NEGATIVE (Note if you have a multi-battery system do not include the jumper) remove them, Using a volt meter see if there is power on one of them when plugged in.. Mark the POSITIVE wire with red tape or some other red thing (Red Zip Tie).
That is a positive wire,, in fact red zip ties on all the positive wires.
(Often the house positive will be black you see).
IF there is no power to the wire.. Then you gonna need a test lamp.. For this job I'd like a 50-100 watt 12 volt Trouble light (Auto parts store) which by the way is a handy device to have in your RV tool kit anyway.
This device can be used several ways.
Hooking one lead to POSITIVE and the other to the NEGATIVE battery lead.. With at least one light inside the RV set to ON. does touching it to the smaller of the wires which were hooked to battery negative cause it to burn brightly or dimly, and if dimly did the light indoors come on? If so, the lead under "TEST" is positive. ANd you likely blew a fuse on your converter.
I have 3 test lamps here along with a small basket full of multi-meters.
One is 75 watt (I think) as described above.
one is a bayonet type "Dash Indicator" lamp in a factory made "Ice pick" like device.. One is a license plate lamp with test leads attached to the socket,, Different loads for different places.. Many times those lamps have served me well when the meter said "No problem" but.. There was a problem.
IF the jack works properly (UP is UP, Down is Down) odds are good the battery was put in properly, at least as far as the negative wire is concerned.
Some folks, however, may connect the house power to the negative side (There is a good reason for this) If you have I will tell you how to fix it.
IF there is more than one lead on the NEGATIVE (Note if you have a multi-battery system do not include the jumper) remove them, Using a volt meter see if there is power on one of them when plugged in.. Mark the POSITIVE wire with red tape or some other red thing (Red Zip Tie).
That is a positive wire,, in fact red zip ties on all the positive wires.
(Often the house positive will be black you see).
IF there is no power to the wire.. Then you gonna need a test lamp.. For this job I'd like a 50-100 watt 12 volt Trouble light (Auto parts store) which by the way is a handy device to have in your RV tool kit anyway.
This device can be used several ways.
Hooking one lead to POSITIVE and the other to the NEGATIVE battery lead.. With at least one light inside the RV set to ON. does touching it to the smaller of the wires which were hooked to battery negative cause it to burn brightly or dimly, and if dimly did the light indoors come on? If so, the lead under "TEST" is positive. ANd you likely blew a fuse on your converter.
I have 3 test lamps here along with a small basket full of multi-meters.
One is 75 watt (I think) as described above.
one is a bayonet type "Dash Indicator" lamp in a factory made "Ice pick" like device.. One is a license plate lamp with test leads attached to the socket,, Different loads for different places.. Many times those lamps have served me well when the meter said "No problem" but.. There was a problem.
