Had a blow out coming home after Memorial Day weekend. Tread separation on China Bombs. Looking at options to maybe repair myself. Pics are below. What you don't see is the styro-foam got chewed out between the thin plywood bottom and the inside floor. That's easy enough, and I was planning on maybe just using that expandable foam to fill that gap.Instead of trying to replace the thin plywood, Im thinking about using steel just in case another blow out happens. In fact, thinking about adding steel above all four tires.My biggest dilemma is going to be the bracket that is all bent. I believe I can get it back in place and weld it back.Anyone out there have other ideas or see any problems with my approach? Trailer actually goes in to have the front cap painted tomorrow. Im going to ask the shop doing to painting what their thoughts are, but would like to hear from folks who maybe have had to do similar repairs and get any ideas.Here's the pics... ThanksMike

My insurance cover my TT that had to be "scraped" due to a blow out that bent the frame.

I've often pontificated about this problem on Towables and MHs.Since most Towables seem to have the same standard four wheel 2 axle spacing why don't they install a, not bare, steel which would rot in short order up north but, as substantial steel alloy can to shield the RVs from road objects and blowouts.Many are maimed or killed every years from blowouts on MHs. 250.00 to 350.00 max for such protection on a Towable and perhaps another200.00 or a Motorhome.For MH's at least they could install the safety devices that are like an inner tire, on the steer axle. They are hard to find now but if the factory installed them they would soon be more available.Go ahead and put the steel cans under your rv. The best idea yet. Make them heavy enough they won't rust through. Maybe a metal dealer can steer you to an alloy that is rust resistant.

Yup my sewage bay is behind the tires.I lost my entire sewage bay due to a blow out. Valves, bay and part of front of tanks. Looked like a bomb went off inside. :(Found out the tanks are all 'one molded piece' AND very expensive replacement because it includes the entire molded part that comes to the valves.I used turnbuckles to bring all the cracked plastic together. And then I screwed heavy wire screening to replace and cover the rest of the damage.5 years later and all turnbuckles still holding and wire screen still in place.

Looks like it's Totaled to me. :h

TenOC wrote:My insurance cover my TT that had to be "scraped" due to a blow out that bent the frame.Wow... That's a heckuva lot of damage from a blow-out.I do not believe the frame is bent, just that bracket that comes out 90 degrees from the frame.Mike

Blowout Damage repair | Good Sam Community

westend
Explorer
Jun 09, 2017
I installed the Abrahms level wheel well in my trailer. The original plastic well was gone.
I built a frame and attached aluminum trim coil in the corners to prevent any water infiltration. I then screwed and glued sheets of 303 steel (the stuff they use in garbage truck compactors and Humvees) I finished the metal with primer and bed liner-in-a-can.
ghiotom
Explorer
Jun 09, 2017
Had similar damage, insurance paid over $2000 with no deductible. Repaired damage with 2" foam sheet from Home Depot and a 4' sheet of 16 gauge galvanized steel. No outrigger damage on mine. Took remainder of payout and bought 4 Bridgestone Duravis R250 LT tires.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jun 05, 2017
Walaby wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Get a claim going, get an estimate, get a check minus your deductible, do the work yourself and have money to have metal pans made for above the 4 tires. Now buy some QUALITY tires like the new GY Endurance.

GY Endurance will be on order next day or two.

Mike

I am betting they will be a good tire like the "G" and "H" tires are.
Walaby
Explorer II
Jun 05, 2017
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Get a claim going, get an estimate, get a check minus your deductible, do the work yourself and have money to have metal pans made for above the 4 tires. Now buy some QUALITY tires like the new GY Endurance.

GY Endurance will be on order next day or two.

Mike
rockhillmanor
Explorer
Jun 05, 2017
Lynnmor wrote:
....I agree that a steel liner would be a benefit but there are several pitfalls. Water will get behind the steel and cause rot problems above it. If there is much room, it could be spaced away from the floor so it can dry. The edges, and especially the ends, would need to be anchored so that a failing tire cannot grab it and cause even bigger problems.Galvanized steel is available and that should last longer than the poorly painted frame.

I wasn't under any type of warranty with my blow out and destroyed sewage bay. WHICH is enclosed EXCEPT for the side where the tire is. :R

They wanted $2,000 to repair the damage. I did it myself for about 100 dollars in parts and screws, bolts and the turnbuckles.

I used a steel 'grate' material on my fix which allows water to go thru.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jun 05, 2017
Get a claim going, get an estimate, get a check minus your deductible, do the work yourself and have money to have metal pans made for above the 4 tires. Now buy some QUALITY tires like the new GY Endurance.
Walaby
Explorer II
Jun 05, 2017
F-TROUP wrote:
Over the years I've had 2 blowout on different trailers. One had $4,500 and the other $3,200 in damage, both covered by insurance. At high priced parts and $100 an hour to work on them nothing is cheap. If your insurance didn't cover it then your with the wrong company.

Havent called ins co yet. Was thinking I could just fix it myself, but if I have to pull up floor etc, then that's a whole different ball game. I'll probably call them tomorrow and after I get it back from the paint shop (being repainted - cap fade.. repaint under warranty), I'll probably take it for an estimate and go from there.

Mike
F-TROUP
Explorer
Jun 05, 2017
Over the years I've had 2 blowout on different trailers. One had $4,500 and the other $3,200 in damage, both covered by insurance. At high priced parts and $100 an hour to work on them nothing is cheap. If your insurance didn't cover it then your with the wrong company.
stripit
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
Looked like the picture of my 5th wheel after losing a tire tread, no blow out. I went to the heating and air cond shop down the road from the rv park we were in. Had them cut and bend their thickest sheetmetal to fit the size I needed to cover the entire area above the tires, and added another 12 inches to give even more coverage. I caulked all the areas that might allow any water to enter, used self taping screws and secured the metal up tight. The plywood hole once sealed up with the new metal I figured didn't really mattter and I did not replace it. That metal support on mine was bent but I was able to remove it and hammer it back into shape. Total repairs cost me about $35.00
Walaby
Explorer II
Jun 04, 2017
The bolt comes through the aluminum frame and bolts to the bracket. I am worried about how much effort that will take. Im not sure if it goes through the floor, and then through the aluminum frame, and then into the bracket or what. If it is through the floor, then I think Im gonna let someone else do that. As far as that particular bracket supporting the wall, that particular location is in the middle of a slide, so no wall there. But, if I can get a new bracket, that's obviously alot better.

As far as water behind the galvanized steel, I was thinking of sealing all edges, maybe with sealant tape and then a bead of silicone or something.

For now I've put some expandable foam to fill in the gap up to the inside floor, covering it up with Duct tape for now and then will contemplate next move.

Mike

Forum Discussion

Blowout Damage repair

About RV Tips & Tricks

Related Content

Blowout damage

tire Blowout Repair

Water Damage Repair

first blowout

repairing wheel well after a tire blowout