can I increase my tow vehicle's tow rating

appreciate all comments. been told can't so many times in my life.couldn't replace ceiling joists in a building after its built.(did)told it's illegal to drive with propane on in rv.(isn't) told I can't increase hauling capacity in my 2000 chev c3500 srw. did. hauled 9000lbs 3/4minus in bed with vehicle level total scale weight 15,320 w/ 3000lb overload springs and 19.5 tires/wheels rated at 4500lbs. the factory rating for trailer weight on truck is 10,000 lbs. haul 8800lb rated 5th whl. used to pull one hill at 45mph at top now pull same hill at 65mph. accomplished w/ tube headers, spacer block, fuel change from reg. to mid grade and dyno tune.

What I wanna know is what OP wants to tow. If a TT, forget about "tow" capacity and focus on payload capacity. And what does he have for a TV now and what specs? Is he having problems with what he has now or is he shopping for a new FW or TT?

Besides just a vehicle's tow capacity, as mentioned above, there's other important factors that need to be considered along with the pros and cons.

Towing at the max limits of a TV can be hard on it and make for a terrible tow experience. Towed our first TT with an F150 that was maxed out on payload and tow capacity. Could not make more than 35 mph up steeper (7%) hills, was slooow to accelerate and gas mileage sucked (as low as 5.6mpg). Engine ran at high rpms much of the time trying to make enough power. Sold the F150 to a coworker of DW. Even though it only had a well cared for 100K miles on it, they had to rebuild the tranny soon afterwards. After moving up to a longer/heavier TT we got an F250. The ol' F150 was like a toy in comparison.

Grit dog wrote:
Taking bets now on whether this thread grows legs or dies an early death....
What should the over/under be?
For the OP, 2 words, "search function." You'll be able to read for days and if that doesn't help you form your path forward (assuming like this isn't just a hypothetical situation to get the weight cops out of bed in the morning) nothing will.

Of course, that depends upon "WHICH" weight cops one gets out of bed. The REAL weight cops on the highways, or the RV.NET weight cops using a computer, or civil court court attorneys, or manufacture warranty service writers!

Marty

Taking bets now on whether this thread grows legs or dies an early death....
What should the over/under be?
For the OP, 2 words, "search function." You'll be able to read for days and if that doesn't help you form your path forward (assuming like this isn't just a hypothetical situation to get the weight cops out of bed in the morning) nothing will.

Check the Owners Manual. What options control the towing rating or Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR)? What options does YOUR vehicle have?
For instance, a 3.55 differential ratio will often result in a lower GCWR. A 3.73 ratio will have a slightly higher GCWR. A 4.10 ratio will have the highest rating. All it takes is time and money to change the gears.
There are licensed "upfitter" shops all around the country that can change ratings, and may even make a new placard for the door post.
In many states, the owner of the vehicle has absolute control over what the GVW is. It is whatever the owner wants to pay for. For instance, my old 1994 Dodge 3500 dually could legally be loaded to 14,000 lbs. GVW, because that is the GVW I paid for when I registered it. Note that that weight is the ACTUAL weight, not a "Rating".
The truck manufacturer's axle rating (GAWR) is often quite a bit less than the axle manufacturer's rating.
The bottom line is, YES, there ARE things that can be done to change the ratings. Yes, such changes may (probably will) result in increased stress and wear on the vehicle. That is a fact that the owner must be willing to live with. The chances of a catastrophic failure are very slim. The previously mentioned '94 Dodge was towing a fifth wheel at a Gross Combined Weight of 21,180 lbs. That was about a ton and a half OVER the GCWR. The truck had 275,000 miles on it when I got rid of it, still going strong. The only reason I allowed it to go away is that I just didn't need a one ton dually 4X2 any more.

I have often quoted my step-father's rules for hauling firewood or hay:
1. Will it move?
2. Will it stop?
If the answer to either question is "No!", fix the problem and you are good to go.
If the answer to both questions is "YES!", just go.
Of course, that was in "the bad old days", when a half ton truck was rated at 6,000 GVW, a 3/4 ton was rated at 8,000, and a one ton was 10,000.

Yes....you can improve the towing and/or load carrying capabilities of many vehicles. And the has mentioned, many vehicles are somewhat underrated by the manufacturer, but if you make modifications to improve the vehicle and are found to be “at fault” in an accident..... being “over” the listed capacities may work against you in court!

You need to post what tow vehicle you have. While the manufacturers rating may not change, some vehicles towing capacity can be improved on. In some cases, a simple gearing change will improve towing capacity, or adding a transmission cooler, higher capacity receiver hitch, heavier springs/air bags, with certain models.

Jerry

Then again, you can be like me, I do not trust the manufacture tow ratings to work as "I" need them too. So I go thru many hoops and other figuring out to see if it will truly tow to its rating! Per MY ratings mind you.
At the end of the day, you may get a rig that will have no issues towing over its ratings. OR, as I have some, it will not tow to its ratings.......

I would suggest you look up the latest and worst jsea spec or whatever it is called, and ask youself. Am I willing to go up a 5% grade as little as 40 to 35 mph? if under 15000, its 40, over 15K its 35. Am I will to go up no greater than a 12% grade at max rating? if not, you better know what to deduct that max weight so you can go up a 25-30% grade as I have gone up too many times to count on both fingers and toes.

Also remember, that "W" in gvWr, gcWr, graWr.......while you may think it is weight, the real W is "warranty!" along with weight! Go over the weight, your warranty could be null and void depending upon what breaks, vs how and why!

Marty

With enough money....most any OEM rating can be changed...but...it generally would cost more than just buying a higher class TV

You will need to pay a ME/PE to figure and design whatever is needed, pay a firm to do the modifications, pay to have the final TV tested and certified that it meets the new specification, pay to register/certify/etc it to spec....M sure there are more stuff to pay for....

But...there is a way...it will cost you, but not as much as the above for upgrading= GVWR, FGAWR, RGAWR....this ppplies to most OEM’s

Here is what the OEM’s change to up their MTWR and GCWR...that is to change diff ratio to a higher numeric...

ray biggs wrote:
am confused. just read in july. manufacturer's use engine power for tow rating but further states if you improve performance it won't improve tow rating?

You can't increase the factory tow rating. BUT. You CAN make it tow better. Most simple way, Is to replace the rear gear with a lower rear gear. Trying to add power to the engine is expensive, and not real productive.

Also If it dosen't have the tow package. Adding it will allow it to tow with out damaging the trany.