Is there any product out there that provides a catchment system for leaks that one could put under plumbing joints in an RV? I'm building the plumbing system myself with Sharkbite but I know leaks can still happen, especially if there's an unexpected freeze.

You need to go back to Plumbing 1-01. There should be no reason to expect a leak.They do make alarm systems for water leaks, they aren't cheap. Also, there are pressure sensitive supply lines that shut off if a rupture happens. If everything is installed correctly, there should be near zero expectation of a leak. If you don't trust your plumbing skills, pressurize the water system with air and a dial pressure indicator. Typical inspection done this way is 24 hr test.

Coffee can, solo cup, your Xtra tuff boot....lol

Don't you have faith in shark bite? But IMO better to test. A proper test and you'll know what pressure you can take. Nothing worse than water leak IMO. I test with air, lots easier to clean up air than water IMO. I believe is called a "test" plug. Screws into fresh water and keeps check valve open. Could do same thing a lot cheaper with $15.00 gauge installed on high pressure side of fresh water. A "pass" for me is 65 psi (air not water) for 5 min. PSI loss with in 5 min...I start looking. Or if you have a psi gauge (and somewhat accurate) on your air compressor, get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Accu-gage-Chek-Spare-Valve-Extender/dp/B0006O2S8M and install a valve stem (five dollar for a brass valve stem which is best IMO) on in the high pressure side of water system. And get an adapter for air hose, so you can thread end onto air compressor air hose. As far as "catchment" system, can't think of any other than a mop bucket:E Here are RV's spec's that might be old but are right out of the "book" (unless the OEMS's got them changed...again)Pressurized System Test. ---The test shall be performed by subjecting the pressure water piping system to either air or water pressure for 10 minutes without leakage or loss of pressure.--- The entire piping system shall be filled with water and pressure tested with air or water at 80 psi to 100 psi (551 kPa to 689 kPa). The entire piping system shall include the hot water storage tank and the pressurized potable water storage tank. ---The water heater storage tank and the pressurized potable water storage tank shall be removed from the piping system, and the remaining piping system shall be pressure tested with air at 80 psi to 100 psi (551 kPa to 689 kPa). ---PVC and CPVC systems shall be permitted to be tested to the manufacturer's recommended test procedure.Found it...http://www.rvpartsgeek.com/product/jr-products-04-62275-city-water-pressure-test-plug/ Little nipple at end keeps check valve open when testing. Explains better here. http://www.bandbmolders.com/files/PCV_Test_Plug_Flier2.pdf But you'll have to buy more stuff to have a complete testing tool. That is why I like the idea of just using a "check a spare" and install a brass valve stem as a test port.As a side note I helped a neighbor with their PDI. Kind of funny and sad at same time but RV dealer's of a test was basically looking under RV for any water dripping out.For drainage side of this like under sink I have couple of these in RV https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K I sanded down the little legs to make better contact if any water is present. Also I place on paper, so you can tell visually by looking a the paper every know and then if water has made contact. Hope this helps. My writing not the best.

Why Sharkbites? They're expensive, they're bulky and you're not reducing the risk of leaks. I'd go buy a PEX crimper (cheap on ebay) and use copper crimp rings. The rings are cheap as well as PEX fittings. You can also get a "pocket crimper" which fits into small spaces. Another option is PEX clamps like most manufacturers use, but I'd use crimp rings. Using a crimper and the rings is easy and veryy foolproof and it's extremely unlikely you'll get a leak anywhere unless you are all thumbs. You could do a pressure test with air if you feel uncomfortable with your work or if you have an assistant available, have him/her slowly turn the water on just a little while you look for leaks and can shut it off quickly if needed. PEX lines rarely get damaged from freezing and it's faucets, etc. that could be. But you should be winterizing each year anyway.BTW, I recommend installing a master shutoff valve in an easily accessible location inside. That way you can quickly shut the water off for times you are out shopping or on a walk. Toilet valves have been known to leak. If doing extensive plumbing work, I also recommend a good pressure regulator inside like a Watts 263A along with a gauge.

westend wrote:You need to go back to Plumbing 1-01. There should be no reason to expect a leak.x2. I've used SharkBites on the heating system in my house for over 10 years. No problems.As mentioned, there are cheaper alternatives to SharkBites.As long as you're building the plumbing system, why not use Pex and run all the joints to one central location, like in a storage bay?Personally, I wouldn't be concerned about leaks. If you do it right it won't leak. And if it does, it may be the result of something you couldn't control.Do you worry about possible leaks at your S&B when you are in the RV?

Catchment system for leaks at plumbing joints? | Good Sam Community

18 Replies

myredracer
Explorer II
May 05, 2017
I just don't understand why anyone would be worried about PEX leaking and the desire/need to use Sharkbites. PEX crimpers are pre-calibrated and all you do is slip on the ring and squeeze the handles until they touch each other. Can't get any easier than that. If there is any concern for leaking piping, it would be bad workmanship at the factories for the cinch clamps that are typically used in RVs. I've done many hundreds of PEX crimps and the only time I had a leak is when I missed doing a crimp one time at a fitting. Sharkbites do have their place tho. Make sure you bevel the ends of PEX before you insert it into a Sharkbite or you can get a leak.

This is re-plumbing I did under our TT kitchen counter using a standard crimper. At $10 - $20 apiece for Sharkbites, it would have cost a small fortune.
drsteve
Explorer
May 05, 2017
The "whole system" will be in the back of a compact SUV per another of the OPs posts.

I just went and had a look at that one... who plumbs a Highlander? And why?
time2roll
Nomad
May 05, 2017
+1 for Sharkbite or Gatorbite as a leak free permanent solution.
Water alarm is probably better solution to detect leaks in hard to access areas.
Grit_dog
Navigator III
May 05, 2017
drsteve wrote:
TNGW1500SE wrote:
Buy the tools to crimp the PEX connections and use the rings. It isn't going to leak. Note that not all PEX type pipe is the same quality. An hour on Youtube and you'll be a PEX expert.

What he said. Sharkbites are great for repairs, or if you're going from one type of pipe to another, but they're kinda pricey for doing a whole system.

The "whole system" will be in the back of a compact SUV per another of the OPs posts.
Can't run too much plumbing in the trunk of a car!
westend
Explorer
May 05, 2017
drsteve wrote:
gbopp wrote:
Do you worry about possible leaks at your S&B when you are in the RV?

Last summer DW and I were shopping in a Walmart five hours from home because we forgot to pack the lawn chairs, when our house sitter calls with the news that a pipe has broken and water is streaming down the basement wall. Lucky for me my BIL is handy and lives a half hour away, and was able to repair the leak with parts on hand.
You're lucky.
I worked on the restoration of a duplex basement a few years back. The below grade basement was small, probably 15' x 20'. The renter had left for grocery shopping with an outside lawn sprinkler running. A pipe broke in the wall cavity and flooded the basement.

I would have liked to seen the look on her face when she opened the service door from the garage and was swept away by the water. The staircase was flooded to about 3'.
drsteve
Explorer
May 05, 2017
TNGW1500SE wrote:
Buy the tools to crimp the PEX connections and use the rings. It isn't going to leak. Note that not all PEX type pipe is the same quality. An hour on Youtube and you'll be a PEX expert.

What he said. Sharkbites are great for repairs, or if you're going from one type of pipe to another, but they're kinda pricey for doing a whole system.
TNGW1500SE
Explorer
May 05, 2017
Buy the tools to crimp the PEX connections and use the rings. It isn't going to leak. Note that not all PEX type pipe is the same quality. An hour on Youtube and you'll be a PEX expert.
drsteve
Explorer
May 05, 2017
gbopp wrote:
Do you worry about possible leaks at your S&B when you are in the RV?

Last summer DW and I were shopping in a Walmart five hours from home because we forgot to pack the lawn chairs, when our house sitter calls with the news that a pipe has broken and water is streaming down the basement wall. Lucky for me my BIL is handy and lives a half hour away, and was able to repair the leak with parts on hand.
mike-s
Explorer
May 05, 2017
Svenn wrote:
Is there any product out there that provides a catchment system for leaks that one could put under plumbing joints in an RV? I'm building the plumbing system myself with Sharkbite but I know leaks can still happen, especially if there's an unexpected freeze.
Why not just cut a hole in the floor under each of these leaking joints, to let the water out? :R
Svenn
Explorer
May 05, 2017
wa8yxm wrote:

The only "Catchment" system I know of is a larger pipel. FOr example you can put a 2" pVC over the 1/2 inch PEX and if it leaks, the PVC is drained to under the RV.. IN fact that is how some pipelines are built and all should be

With a pipe inside a pipe (inside a pipe) so if one bursts, the next size up plays Catch.

That's a good idea, though the pipe would have to be clear so I could see if there's a leak or not? Also, for example the horizontal output pipe at the bottom of the water tank would need a bigger pipe around it that would also seal up to the tank, otherwise a leak there could spray out everywhere.