Catchment system for leaks at plumbing joints?

Actually water alarms are quite cheap if you don't expect them to do anything but chirp if there's a leak. I have some in my house- one in the pan under the washing machine, one under the dishwasher, and one in the pan under the water heater.
https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493932181&sr=8-3&keywords=water+alarm

How does that song go...
When the shark bites. Into pex dear, Plumbing leaks Go away
When the Shark Bites Into pex dear, Dry times are hear to stay.


The only "Catchment" system I know of is a larger pipel. FOr example you can put a 2" pVC over the 1/2 inch PEX and if it leaks, the PVC is drained to under the RV.. IN fact that is how some pipelines are built and all should be

With a pipe inside a pipe (inside a pipe) so if one bursts, the next size up plays Catch.

myredracer wrote:
Why Sharkbites? They're expensive, they're bulky and you're not reducing the risk of leaks. I'd go buy a PEX crimper (cheap on ebay) and use copper crimp rings. The rings are cheap as well as PEX fittings. You can also get a "pocket crimper" which fits into small spaces. Another option is PEX clamps like most manufacturers use, but I'd use crimp rings. Using a crimper and the rings is easy and veryy foolproof and it's extremely unlikely you'll get a leak anywhere unless you are all thumbs. You could do a pressure test with air if you feel uncomfortable with your work or if you have an assistant available, have him/her slowly turn the water on just a little while you look for leaks and can shut it off quickly if needed.

PEX lines rarely get damaged from freezing and it's faucets, etc. that could be. But you should be winterizing each year anyway.

BTW, I recommend installing a master shutoff valve in an easily accessible location inside. That way you can quickly shut the water off for times you are out shopping or on a walk. Toilet valves have been known to leak. If doing extensive plumbing work, I also recommend a good pressure regulator inside like a Watts 263A along with a gauge.

X2

westend wrote:
You need to go back to Plumbing 1-01. There should be no reason to expect a leak.

x2. I've used SharkBites on the heating system in my house for over 10 years. No problems.

As mentioned, there are cheaper alternatives to SharkBites.
As long as you're building the plumbing system, why not use Pex and run all the joints to one central location, like in a storage bay?

Personally, I wouldn't be concerned about leaks. If you do it right it won't leak. And if it does, it may be the result of something you couldn't control.

Do you worry about possible leaks at your S&B when you are in the RV?

Why Sharkbites? They're expensive, they're bulky and you're not reducing the risk of leaks. I'd go buy a PEX crimper (cheap on ebay) and use copper crimp rings. The rings are cheap as well as PEX fittings. You can also get a "pocket crimper" which fits into small spaces. Another option is PEX clamps like most manufacturers use, but I'd use crimp rings. Using a crimper and the rings is easy and veryy foolproof and it's extremely unlikely you'll get a leak anywhere unless you are all thumbs. You could do a pressure test with air if you feel uncomfortable with your work or if you have an assistant available, have him/her slowly turn the water on just a little while you look for leaks and can shut it off quickly if needed.

PEX lines rarely get damaged from freezing and it's faucets, etc. that could be. But you should be winterizing each year anyway.

BTW, I recommend installing a master shutoff valve in an easily accessible location inside. That way you can quickly shut the water off for times you are out shopping or on a walk. Toilet valves have been known to leak. If doing extensive plumbing work, I also recommend a good pressure regulator inside like a Watts 263A along with a gauge.

Don't you have faith in shark bite? But IMO better to test. A proper test and you'll know what pressure you can take. Nothing worse than water leak IMO. I test with air, lots easier to clean up air than water IMO. I believe is called a "test" plug. Screws into fresh water and keeps check valve open. Could do same thing a lot cheaper with $15.00 gauge installed on high pressure side of fresh water. A "pass" for me is 65 psi (air not water) for 5 min. PSI loss with in 5 min...I start looking. Or if you have a psi gauge (and somewhat accurate) on your air compressor, get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Accu-gage-Chek-Spare-Valve-Extender/dp/B0006O2S8M and install a valve stem (five dollar for a brass valve stem which is best IMO) on in the high pressure side of water system. And get an adapter for air hose, so you can thread end onto air compressor air hose.

As far as "catchment" system, can't think of any other than a mop bucket:E

Here are RV's spec's that might be old but are right out of the "book" (unless the OEMS's got them changed...again)

Pressurized System Test.

---The test shall be performed by subjecting the pressure water piping system to either air or water pressure for 10 minutes without leakage or loss of pressure.

--- The entire piping system shall be filled with water and pressure tested with air or water at 80 psi to 100 psi (551 kPa to 689 kPa). The entire piping system shall include the hot water storage tank and the pressurized potable water storage tank.

---The water heater storage tank and the pressurized potable water storage tank shall be removed from the piping system, and the remaining piping system shall be pressure tested with air at 80 psi to 100 psi (551 kPa to 689 kPa).

---PVC and CPVC systems shall be permitted to be tested to the manufacturer's recommended test procedure.

Found it...http://www.rvpartsgeek.com/product/jr-products-04-62275-city-water-pressure-test-plug/ Little nipple at end keeps check valve open when testing. Explains better here. http://www.bandbmolders.com/files/PCV_Test_Plug_Flier2.pdf But you'll have to buy more stuff to have a complete testing tool. That is why I like the idea of just using a "check a spare" and install a brass valve stem as a test port.

As a side note I helped a neighbor with their PDI. Kind of funny and sad at same time but RV dealer's of a test was basically looking under RV for any water dripping out.

For drainage side of this like under sink I have couple of these in RV https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K I sanded down the little legs to make better contact if any water is present. Also I place on paper, so you can tell visually by looking a the paper every know and then if water has made contact.

Hope this helps. My writing not the best.

Coffee can, solo cup, your Xtra tuff boot....lol

You need to go back to Plumbing 1-01. There should be no reason to expect a leak.

They do make alarm systems for water leaks, they aren't cheap. Also, there are pressure sensitive supply lines that shut off if a rupture happens. If everything is installed correctly, there should be near zero expectation of a leak. If you don't trust your plumbing skills, pressurize the water system with air and a dial pressure indicator. Typical inspection done this way is 24 hr test.