Forum Discussion
BenK
Nov 03, 2019Explorer
Ditto Grit and Barney
Add: what is your TV's RGAWR ?
OEM's provide components to meet their ratings (in this case RGAWR vs GVWR) plus whatever margin they decide to dial in.
Those P class tires must be de-rated a min of 9% per RMA's recommendation (Rubber Manufacturers Association, and 'recommendation' has warranty and liability attributes) and your OEM has taken that into their calculations
Going to the next higher class tire will beget a stronger tire, which will have stronger/stiffer sidewalls. Note your TV's door stickers tire pressures is NOT for an LT class tire, but for the lower class P tire. You will have to re-engineer the proper tire PSI accordingly
RGAWR also telling what level of suspension (springs in this case) is there. Most half ton's dial in higher levels of 'ride quality' than higher class TV's.
So, think your setup maybe 'rated' for whatever you have, but close to...at or even a bit over the ratings. Meaning it will take little to over power your rear setup.
I'd suggest going to higher rate WD setup too.
Also prefer trailer axle center farther back than most trailer OEMs locate them these days.
Finally, make sure your trailer tongue/frame is 'level' at it's highest pointing and prefer/recommend pointed down slightly for best towing behaviors
Add: what is your TV's RGAWR ?
OEM's provide components to meet their ratings (in this case RGAWR vs GVWR) plus whatever margin they decide to dial in.
Those P class tires must be de-rated a min of 9% per RMA's recommendation (Rubber Manufacturers Association, and 'recommendation' has warranty and liability attributes) and your OEM has taken that into their calculations
Going to the next higher class tire will beget a stronger tire, which will have stronger/stiffer sidewalls. Note your TV's door stickers tire pressures is NOT for an LT class tire, but for the lower class P tire. You will have to re-engineer the proper tire PSI accordingly
RGAWR also telling what level of suspension (springs in this case) is there. Most half ton's dial in higher levels of 'ride quality' than higher class TV's.
So, think your setup maybe 'rated' for whatever you have, but close to...at or even a bit over the ratings. Meaning it will take little to over power your rear setup.
I'd suggest going to higher rate WD setup too.
Also prefer trailer axle center farther back than most trailer OEMs locate them these days.
Finally, make sure your trailer tongue/frame is 'level' at it's highest pointing and prefer/recommend pointed down slightly for best towing behaviors
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