Do I need a charge line to my Toad?

This is an issue with my Honda CRV. Batt drains in a short time unless there is a charge line or disconnect. I got a cheap and use a very simple Disconnect

Thinking one of these days I'll replace the four pin plug and add the charge line (or not). The only issue on the Honda is that I have to reset the radio code and clock. Not sure what issues are involved on your Jeep.

What's your rush?

I used Radio Shack diodes. They have some 6 amp diodes. I put a couple in parallel. I was on the road when I discovered the feed back and need for diodes. I stuck the ends of the diodes into a auto fuse holder as a temp fix. When I got home I mounted them in a box. I couldn't find a 7 to 6 pin adapter cable. I made my own cable. I used flexable clear tubing from the hardware store and wire pulling lubricant for getting the wires into the tubing.

lovemytt wrote:
What's your rush?

The rush is we are trying to leave for a trip by morning and we want to pull our toad. We haven't done it yet so we don't know how long the battery will last in out toad with the key on aux?

lacofdfireman wrote:
I'm batting 1000 here trying to jimmy rig my toad in a hurry to leave on a trip tomorrow night. But it's now looking like we may not leave until Wednesday because we can't even get our Motorhome back from the dealer that is installing a new generator for us. They did say Tuesday evening or early Wednesday so we are keeping our fingers crossed. So now here is my next issue.
So I could have sworn that my 03 jeep Grand Chetokee did not have a steering lock. But wouldn't ya know I hooked up my Ready brake and my Blue ox to my pickup to pull the jeep around the block and soon as I turn out of the driveway my dang steering locks and my front tires are skidding down the road sideways. I stopped quickly and put the key in and turned to aux and it pulled and tracked great. I had it in my head that my Grand Cherokee didn't have steering lock because the other day I was in some gravel and with the key off I turned the wheel and never felt it lock. So now it looks like I will have to tow with my Cherokees key in the aux position. So I'm curious. How fast is this going to run my battery down? Do I need to run a charge cord? Trying to get this all figured out so I can hit the road. The other issue is I cheated out and used an existing 4 pole outlet on the front of my Jeep that I had laying around instead of buying a 6 pole. And I bought. 7way to 4pole Blue ox power cord. Not sure where to go from here. Just wondering if I'm towing and the battery dies my steering will lock up won't it? Is there any quick fixes I can do to get me on the road soon? I don't have access to diodes etc without mail order and I don't have time for that.

Well Dave,
When you and I had the long conversation on the phone about much of this stuff, I explained the need to CONFIRM that you do, or DO NOT, have your steering lock in your Grand. I said you really need TO MAKE SURE that it does, or doesn't lock. And, I also said that if there is NO LOCK, then your key does not even have to be in the car. And if that is/was the case, then there's no need for any additional wiring for toad battery charging because there's no draw on the battery.

But, apparently you've found out different. Well, I'll ask this. Now that you KNOW you have a steering lock, and, that you need to turn the key to the first position to un-lock that steering, DOES THAT IN FACT, ENGERGIZE ANY ELECTRICS in that key position? In other words, does that first key position turn on anything on or in the dash, to indicate something's on, i.e. Radio, dash lighting, icons in the dash, ding-ding-ding, "the key is on" or, buzzers or anything?

If it does, then yes, you'll need a charge line from the coach to the toads positive battery terminal. In our TJ Jeeps that we towed in the past, the key needed one click forward to unlock the steering but, in that position, it energized NOTHING. So, no battery charge line was needed. It was simply an "unlock" for the steering.

So, CONFIRM if anything is energized or, TURNED ON, with that first click of the key, that unlocks the steering.

Now, as to the last part of your statement concerning the "battery dying and steering lock-up", well, neither has anything to do with the other. Your steering lock-unlock is purely mechanical in the steering column. When you turn the key one click forward, you rotate the control pin that moves another pin out of any one of the many "loops" that are used to lock the steering, in any position the steering wheel is left in, when shutting down the last time you drove it.

If the battery dies, due to being left in the "on" position of the key, the only thing you'll experience because of that is, A DEAD BATTERY and a no-start engine. A dead battery has no effect on steering, unlocked or locked.

If you purchased a 7-pin to 4-pin cord and find out you really need the 7-pin to 6-pin cord and, have not used the first one, then simply TAKE IT BACK and exchange it for the 6-pin one. That way, you'll now have the extra wire in the pig tail to be used for the charge line to the toads positive battery post.
Scott

Well Dave,
When you and I had the long conversation on the phone about much of this stuff, I explained the need to CONFIRM that you do, or DO NOT, have your steering lock in your Grand. I said you really need TO MAKE SURE that it does, or doesn't lock. And, I also said that if there is NO LOCK, then your key does not even have to be in the car. And if that is/was the case, then there's no need for any additional wiring for toad battery charging because there's no draw on the battery.

But, apparently you've found out different. Well, I'll ask this. Now that you KNOW you have a steering lock, and, that you need to turn the key to the first position to un-lock that steering, DOES THAT IN FACT, ENGERGIZE ANY ELECTRICS in that key position? In other words, does that first key position turn on anything on or in the dash, to indicate something's on, i.e. Radio, dash lighting, icons in the dash, ding-ding-ding, "the key is on" or, buzzers or anything?

If it does, then yes, you'll need a charge line from the coach to the toads positive battery terminal. In our TJ Jeeps that we towed in the past, the key needed one click forward to unlock the steering but, in that position, it energized NOTHING. So, no battery charge line was needed. It was simply an "unlock" for the steering.

So, CONFIRM if anything is energized or, TURNED ON, with that first click of the key, that unlocks the steering.

Now, as to the last part of your statement concerning the "battery dying and steering lock-up", well, neither has anything to do with the other. Your steering lock-unlock is purely mechanical in the steering column. When you turn the key one click forward, you rotate the control pin that moves another pin out of any one of the many "loops" that are used to lock the steering, in any position the steering wheel is left in, when shutting down the last time you drove it.

If the battery dies, due to being left in the "on" position of the key, the only thing you'll experience because of that is, A DEAD BATTERY and a no-start engine. A dead battery has no effect on steering, unlocked or locked.

If you purchased a 7-pin to 4-pin cord and find out you really need the 7-pin to 6-pin cord and, have not used the first one, then simply TAKE IT BACK and exchange it for the 6-pin one. That way, you'll now have the extra wire in the pig tail to be used for the charge line to the toads positive battery post.
Scott

Scott, well I guess you've come to the same conclusion as me. I don't know my Cherokee like I think I do. Maybe it's because I never drive it. My 17 year old boy has pretty much taken it over. I have probably put less than 50 miles on it behind the wheel in the past 2 years.
So like I said there is a steering wheel lock. I did some google searching and found out like you said there is a position between off and on that allows you to unlock the steering wheel and also doesn't put power to anything. This time I actually checked it. Weird thing is, is that the key can be removed when in this position. Well to make things worse the key basically comes out in every position except aux. I actually started the Jeep and the key basically just falls out of the ignition. Turned it off and it also comes out in the Off position (Where is should) and the next position between Off and On. This makes it a little difficult as I found out tonight. We've been playing around with the tow bar etc a little so I hooked it to my truck to pull my Cherokee around. Had my son do the drill so he could learn how. But he thought it was in the right position but it was in fact in the Off position thus locking the wheels and almost jack knifing my truck when I tried to stop in the rain. Haha.. So we need to somehow figure out that one position between Off and On a little better. Other than that I think we are dialed in. We were supposed to try and leave tonight but my RV is still at the Dealer. Holy **** they are sloooow. They have had if for 3 weeks to just do a Generator swap. It's taken almost 2 weeks for them to order an exhaust pipe for an Onan 5500. I asked them if they couldn't just take it to a muffler shop and have them build one. They said it's a special pipe that has to be 9" drop then make a 90 degree then out to the side of the RV. I can't believe a muffler shop couldn't make one of those and length you need in about 20 minutes. Hopefully in the morning we will have it and get on the road.

Now I just need to figure out if I should leave the key in or take it out. My son said he has been off roading in the Cherokee and had the Key just fall out while it's running. That sounds like a problem..

Well Dave,
Sounds like you're narrowing things down. But, in my opinion, you've got a faulty ignition switch. I don't recall any of my keys coming out, much less "FALLING OUT" of any of my Jeep products. That includes 7, (soon to be 8) Jeep Wranglers of various years and, two Jeep Grand Cherokees, both Overland models.

So, as long as the key switch CANNOT be turned, while that key is out, you'll be in good shape. But, since you're in time constraints, and don't really have time to order and install a new ignition switch, I'd maybe have some form of huge rubber band or, tiny, mid range bungee or, something like Duct tape etc. to hold that key in while you're towing that Grand.

Obviously, if the securing band, (of whatever works) is easy to put on and take off, it will that much easier to control that situation while towing, driving and, parking/storing at night in unfamiliar areas.
Scott