Forum Discussion
BarneyS
Feb 01, 2020Explorer III
Yes, they do give you a tool to pry the bars in place BUT the best and safest way to do is as follows.
1. Place the trailer tongue on the ball and lock it.
2. Lower the tongue jack all the way to the ground and continue to lower it until the tow vehicle is raised enough to easily slip the bars into place.
3. Once you have the bars in place then raise the tongue jack foot back up to its' stowed position. Doing this places tension on the weight distribution bars. How much tension is determined by a. the amount of tilt on the hitch head, or b. how low or high the L brackets are on the A frame or, if a normal chain type hitch, how many links are between the WD bars and the snap-up brackets.
Doing it this way is much safer and easier than trying to muscle the bars into place with the pry bar. There is little to no tension on the bars this way when you are handling them and therefore little chance for injury. You can lift the rear of the truck as high as you want in order to get the bars in place. It looks weird but does no harm and every goes back to normal as soon as you raise the tongue jack back up. :)
Edit: Just noticed Jimlins post above and he has a good idea to reduce the amount of cranking necessary on the tongue jack by using ramps. Either way, the goal is to make a small upside down V between the truck and the trailer to ease the raising of the spring WD bars. The Equal-i-zer hitch that you linked is one of the more popular WD sway control hitches on the market but it uses square, very stiff WD bars that are somewhat difficult to muscle into place. The supplied pry bar is often not enough to get them there unless you use one of the methods he or I mentioned. I might add that this is also a reason so many of us have an electric tongue jack on our trailers. :C
Barney
1. Place the trailer tongue on the ball and lock it.
2. Lower the tongue jack all the way to the ground and continue to lower it until the tow vehicle is raised enough to easily slip the bars into place.
3. Once you have the bars in place then raise the tongue jack foot back up to its' stowed position. Doing this places tension on the weight distribution bars. How much tension is determined by a. the amount of tilt on the hitch head, or b. how low or high the L brackets are on the A frame or, if a normal chain type hitch, how many links are between the WD bars and the snap-up brackets.
Doing it this way is much safer and easier than trying to muscle the bars into place with the pry bar. There is little to no tension on the bars this way when you are handling them and therefore little chance for injury. You can lift the rear of the truck as high as you want in order to get the bars in place. It looks weird but does no harm and every goes back to normal as soon as you raise the tongue jack back up. :)
Edit: Just noticed Jimlins post above and he has a good idea to reduce the amount of cranking necessary on the tongue jack by using ramps. Either way, the goal is to make a small upside down V between the truck and the trailer to ease the raising of the spring WD bars. The Equal-i-zer hitch that you linked is one of the more popular WD sway control hitches on the market but it uses square, very stiff WD bars that are somewhat difficult to muscle into place. The supplied pry bar is often not enough to get them there unless you use one of the methods he or I mentioned. I might add that this is also a reason so many of us have an electric tongue jack on our trailers. :C
Barney
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