Dual Cam Setup
I'm working on setting up a new Reese Dual Cam setup. I think I need a 1" extended ball, and wonder if I would benefit from a 2". Here's are some photos of where I'm at now: Side view, I think...
Forum Discussion
WOW, detailed info - thanks! - now I have a little more homework to do.
Yes 6" "enclosed (tube?) rectangular frame.
The ball is 25,000 bare steel. The only other option I found was 10,000 lbs chrome. This seemed too low so I went with the bare steel and shot some clear lacquer on it to help prevent rust.
When using the jack it appeared that the the bars would bind on the ball shank. Part of my homework is to see what happens when the TV is hooked up. That will happen as soon as I can find an empty parking lot.
I spoke with the ball manufacturer, they said to trim the shank if necessary but use a sawsall or hacksaw and not a cutoff wheel. They didn't want to subject the ball to the heat generated from a cutoff wheel.
With the floor jack, 90 would spit out one of the bars too.
That's what I'll shoot for. I think the right hand turn is going to be limited by the "wing" for the sway bar ball.
My shank has 2 holes, so it can be extended, but if it is extended it reduces the weight rating. I'll keep it at the higher rating and limit my turns accordingly.
I think the turning radius is 50 feet. I can't imagine I can come close on a hard left turn.
I'll have to see what hits first (more homework). I suspect that at 74 degrees I don't even have to worry about the bar hitting the ball shank.
With the floor jack I could see that it would hit the frame and there's not too much that can be done short of cutting it down (not doing that).
I think these limitations will be hit mostly when trying to maneuver into a tight location. Hopefully I'll have a "spotter" who can watch for binding.
Yes, I tried to shim it to achieve the best fit between the bar and cam. It seemed strange that I had to shim in the opposite direction as you.
I had to use a washer to make room for the radius on the dual cam mount. That's why I have one thin washer in the front and two thick ones in the rear.
This makes sense (another homework item).
Thanks for the link. I also discovered that I have the same alternate hookup spot for the breakaway cable.
What's the best way to adjust the cable length short of moving the location on the TT?
I put the raised ball on the 3 piece head (and have that as my "primary") and the regular ball on the cast head with the raised boss as a "backup".
It's good to hear that these heads seem to be problem free. There was a reference to shims in the install kit, but no shims. I called Reese and let them know that even my 3 piece head was a little sloppy on the shank when tightened to spec (150ft lbs + 1/4 turn). They said that there should be no slop and send me some shims.I ended up with 1/2 shim on the 3 piece head.
I thought I read it in the Reese instructions. Maybe what they were saying is to use the process from the WD instructions for setting up the DC system.
I ended up setting up the WD before drilling out the mounting holes by using a clamp and hand tightening the set screw on the inside of the frame.
Yes, a huge help. Thanks for taking the time to get into such detail and provide lots of photos.
JBarca wrote:
For a 6" wide A frame sure looks like what you have, you need a 1" hi rise tow ball with the Reese HP trunnion bar head.
Yes 6" "enclosed (tube?) rectangular frame.
JBarca wrote:
The hi rise tow ball "must" be stamped on top for the full GVWR of your camper or larger. Check that as some hi rise tow balls have very low ratings while others can be 25,000# goose neck tow balls.
The ball is 25,000 bare steel. The only other option I found was 10,000 lbs chrome. This seemed too low so I went with the bare steel and shot some clear lacquer on it to help prevent rust.
JBarca wrote:
Here are some limitations. You are doing well using the floor jack however there are other limiters in this. Shank length and TT front end design.
When using the jack it appeared that the the bars would bind on the ball shank. Part of my homework is to see what happens when the TV is hooked up. That will happen as soon as I can find an empty parking lot.
I spoke with the ball manufacturer, they said to trim the shank if necessary but use a sawsall or hacksaw and not a cutoff wheel. They didn't want to subject the ball to the heat generated from a cutoff wheel.
JBarca wrote:
See here. This is a measured 74 deg left turn. 90 degrees was mentioned and that is not going to happen on a TT with a 50 degree inclusive angle A frame.
With the floor jack, 90 would spit out one of the bars too.
JBarca wrote:
Your goal is to adjust the hitch the best you can and not have it be the binding point in a hard left turn. Pending the shank length and TT design, the tail light can crash into the camper before the hitch binds. Shorter shanks crash faster but offer a level of being slightly more stable. Longer shanks allow more degrees of turning to not hit the tail light but then the LP tanks are there.
That's what I'll shoot for. I think the right hand turn is going to be limited by the "wing" for the sway bar ball.
My shank has 2 holes, so it can be extended, but if it is extended it reduces the weight rating. I'll keep it at the higher rating and limit my turns accordingly.
JBarca wrote:
A 74 degree left turn going forward may be all the turning radius of your truck can do any way.
I think the turning radius is 50 feet. I can't imagine I can come close on a hard left turn.
JBarca wrote:
Backing up on the left side, well you can crash something and it may be the LP tanks with the bumper. There is also so much a conventional WD hitch can do in regards to turns. 74 degrees is good. You start going a lot past that and you going to break something in the hitch.
I'll have to see what hits first (more homework). I suspect that at 74 degrees I don't even have to worry about the bar hitting the ball shank.
JBarca wrote:
So that is optimizing a left turn. The right turn with your ball coupler will be limited to 65 degree right. See here. The friction sway bar arm is going to hit at 65 degrees. There is not a lot you can do about that. And "most" times you turn sharper left than right so it often is not a problem.
With the floor jack I could see that it would hit the frame and there's not too much that can be done short of cutting it down (not doing that).
I think these limitations will be hit mostly when trying to maneuver into a tight location. Hopefully I'll have a "spotter" who can watch for binding.
JBarca wrote:
I see you have shimmed out the cam arms with attempts of making the WD bar mate better with the cam. I have done this. You can see it here on my older camper
Yes, I tried to shim it to achieve the best fit between the bar and cam. It seemed strange that I had to shim in the opposite direction as you.
JBarca wrote:
However in my case I had square corner channel iron A frame and you have to shim out the frame plates so the bend radius of cam frame plate does not bind on the square corner of the frame. Even some tight radius tube frames may need a washer.
I had to use a washer to make room for the radius on the dual cam mount. That's why I have one thin washer in the front and two thick ones in the rear.
JBarca wrote:
What you need to do is mark the left and right WD bars and always use them on the same side. Over time they will wear to be a perfect match between the cam and WD bar.
This makes sense (another homework item).
JBarca wrote:
Now to the emergency breakaway switch, this should be set with the proper saftey chain length. This topic can get as much attention as gas verses diesel... See here for how I came to do this and why.
WD Hitch Safety Chains Hook Up (Pic's)
Thanks for the link. I also discovered that I have the same alternate hookup spot for the breakaway cable.
What's the best way to adjust the cable length short of moving the location on the TT?
JBarca wrote:
Your 2 style hitch heads. You have the older 3 piece welded head and the new 1 piece all cast head that replaced it. The all cast new head has a higher boss for the tow ball to give more ball nut clearance and a high ball platform to help with binding. The Hi rise tow ball does this on the older 3 piece style.
I put the raised ball on the 3 piece head (and have that as my "primary") and the regular ball on the cast head with the raised boss as a "backup".
JBarca wrote:
If you have a very loose fit between the shank and head on the all cast head, call Reese and they will send you a free shim is needed. Do not just tighten up the head trying to spring it closed. I have not seen or heard of any recent heads cracking like the once back in the early 2,000's which where before the 3 piece welded head. It seems Reese worked through what ever the issues were.
It's good to hear that these heads seem to be problem free. There was a reference to shims in the install kit, but no shims. I called Reese and let them know that even my 3 piece head was a little sloppy on the shank when tightened to spec (150ft lbs + 1/4 turn). They said that there should be no slop and send me some shims.I ended up with 1/2 shim on the 3 piece head.
JBarca wrote:
Oh and yes, like Barney says, set up the WD with the DC on. No need to set it up on the chains then start all over when you add the DC. I have set up many DC's and WD from the get go. It's not a problem. Don't know where you heard or read that as it seems out of context.
I thought I read it in the Reese instructions. Maybe what they were saying is to use the process from the WD instructions for setting up the DC system.
I ended up setting up the WD before drilling out the mounting holes by using a clamp and hand tightening the set screw on the inside of the frame.
JBarca wrote:
Hope this helps and good luck.
Yes, a huge help. Thanks for taking the time to get into such detail and provide lots of photos.
