Dual Cam Setup

JBarca wrote:

Several Open Roads forum members have gone to through wall bolting on tube frames with a backer plate on the inside to prevent tube crush. Turk2500 has done this. He has pics of it, I'll see if I can find them. A search may turn them up.

I can picture this. I've also seen where the back side gets a bigger hole and a "pipe" is inserted into the frame with a length that ends up flush with the frame at the larger hole. A grade 8 washer is used on the side with the larger hole and the "pipe" prevents the frame from crushing.

JBarca wrote:

If the ends of the A frame rail tubes are open one member, Fisherguy, created a tap plate, a plate with 2 nuts welded on it and he then slid that down the open frame tube to hold the nut inside. He has pics on here as well.

Here's one pic (click to jump to thread):






This is another good idea. My A-Frame ends are welded shut, but I could see cutting an access hole for the plate in the end, sliding the plate in and then expoxy/jb welding the access hole shut. Is there any possible way the "caps" on the tube are structural?



I was thinking of getting some rivnuts.




You drill a properly sized hole (5/8 for these) and insert the rivnut. Then you collapse the rivnut and it clamps to the frame.


I was also thinking about a square U-Bolt. My propane tanks are mounted with screws, it would be pretty easy (I think) to move them up a little.

JBarca wrote:

While in your case, lack of grip or torque may well be the cause, if the DC frame plate is not dead tight and flush to the bottom of the A frame rail, this can and will allow the frame plate to rock around causing the problem and pulling on the screws. I thought you used a C clamp when setting up, so I'm thinking the self tapping screws are not going to cut it on your rig.

I did use a C clamp when setting up, and I don't think there was a gap when I finished... I wet out to measure any gap with a feeler gauge. I didn't measure it because I need to adjust some more. It looks like the inside, the side with the jam nut, slipped down some so there's a fairly large "angled" gap right now.


Here's a photo I found while hunting around for ideas that's similar to my "angled gap":

JBarca wrote:

Think forward to converting to bolts. Sooner or later they will rear their ugly head again.

This was just 4 hours of driving. This looks like a real problem. I'm going to have to do something asap.

JBarca wrote:

Also in case you did not know, on 1,200# and heavier TW's, is is best to bolt on the snap up brackets as the C clamp snap up setup has been known to spring open in turns.

I have the heavy duty ones, but they do have a hole for a carriage bolt in them. How do they spring open? Do they actually bend and pop off the frame?

JBarca wrote:
PS. How was camping in the new rig!

It went well. We had crummy weather so we spent a lot of time in the trailer. We were happy to have all that floor space.