Dual Cam Setup
I'm working on setting up a new Reese Dual Cam setup. I think I need a 1" extended ball, and wonder if I would benefit from a 2". Here's are some photos of where I'm at now: Side view, I think...
Forum Discussion
Here are some more pics. I have the older lighter brackets but bolted on from day 1, 1,600# TW and 1,700# bars and 6" C Channel frame and using the 2 lower bolts. I had the good fortune of being on the forum long ago when snap up failures where talked about and I took the preemptive strike before issues showed up. The heavy snap up's where not even out then on the 1,700# hitch. Where I came up with the 1,200# number was a call to Reese tech support. They stated "in some cases" customers have reported snap up failures in turns on these heavier TW's. They had no problem at all bolting on the snap up's. At that time this did not show up in the instructions as it does now, only knew by phone call. It however never says anything about what loaded TW's need these. http://www.reeseprod.com/content/downloads/installation/N66006.pdf
Mine only have 2 holes in the bracket to allow it to be bolted. The set screw pinch bolt must be in place or the entire bracket will bend off the frame at the top pivoting on the 2 lower snap up bolts.
My older brackets where never 90 degree square even in the free state. I never liked that fact however the edge that rests agasint the frame corner is taking all the load and since I'm bolted flat on a rigid surface, the setup can deal with the bend.
Here are some pics to help show setup
Seeing your tube frame crush like it did really starts to question this setup. I have a camping buddy with a Jayco and a 1,200# Reese DC and they are tube frames. I'll have to check he may have increased now to 1,500# bars. He did through bolt the snap ups and put a full backer plate on the inside. He has had the rig now many years and it not come up as an issue for him, again he bolted it to prevent the start of the problem. Which seems to point to being key. Once the bracket starts to bend or the frame deflect, all bets are off.
The rigidity of the tube frame for sure is in question. Is his older camper thicker?
In this case, any brand snapup that is simialr with a top clamp like the Reese could yield the same effect left unbolted.
This type of mounting on a thinner tube frame may be a better option where the snap up has a heavy plate on both inside and out and uses full length straps on front and rear of the bracket along the frame. 4 bolts then hold the load clamped over the frame. This hanger is only one strap however for a snap up it would have a plate wide enough for inside straps on both ends. There is no pinch bolt, all the weight pulls the top down against the top of the frame and the strap bolts prevent the snap up from pulling out away from the frame. This creates a no drill situation. Pic is from the Reese SC hitch
However that method may cost more to make the snap up. Their solution of making the heavy gusseted brackets like you have may help stop the top of the snap up clamp from springing open however as you have proven the pinch bolt and frame crush is still an issue.
You mentioned the center bolt on the snapup, your right a through bolt may very well interfere with the pinch bolt. I'm still no fan of self tapping bolts. Mine does not have that upper center bolt. In your case with the adding the new frame plates you could tap the plate on the top center hole. However I myself would still through bolt the 2 lower holes.
As TT manufactures continue to push towards lighter frames to save weight, they should address this area. It is not that hard to add frame plates on day 1 as they know people have to use a WD hitch on these heavy TW campers. They are letting the WD hitch mfr deal with it.
John
Mine only have 2 holes in the bracket to allow it to be bolted. The set screw pinch bolt must be in place or the entire bracket will bend off the frame at the top pivoting on the 2 lower snap up bolts.
My older brackets where never 90 degree square even in the free state. I never liked that fact however the edge that rests agasint the frame corner is taking all the load and since I'm bolted flat on a rigid surface, the setup can deal with the bend.
Here are some pics to help show setup
Seeing your tube frame crush like it did really starts to question this setup. I have a camping buddy with a Jayco and a 1,200# Reese DC and they are tube frames. I'll have to check he may have increased now to 1,500# bars. He did through bolt the snap ups and put a full backer plate on the inside. He has had the rig now many years and it not come up as an issue for him, again he bolted it to prevent the start of the problem. Which seems to point to being key. Once the bracket starts to bend or the frame deflect, all bets are off.
The rigidity of the tube frame for sure is in question. Is his older camper thicker?
In this case, any brand snapup that is simialr with a top clamp like the Reese could yield the same effect left unbolted.
This type of mounting on a thinner tube frame may be a better option where the snap up has a heavy plate on both inside and out and uses full length straps on front and rear of the bracket along the frame. 4 bolts then hold the load clamped over the frame. This hanger is only one strap however for a snap up it would have a plate wide enough for inside straps on both ends. There is no pinch bolt, all the weight pulls the top down against the top of the frame and the strap bolts prevent the snap up from pulling out away from the frame. This creates a no drill situation. Pic is from the Reese SC hitch
However that method may cost more to make the snap up. Their solution of making the heavy gusseted brackets like you have may help stop the top of the snap up clamp from springing open however as you have proven the pinch bolt and frame crush is still an issue.
You mentioned the center bolt on the snapup, your right a through bolt may very well interfere with the pinch bolt. I'm still no fan of self tapping bolts. Mine does not have that upper center bolt. In your case with the adding the new frame plates you could tap the plate on the top center hole. However I myself would still through bolt the 2 lower holes.
As TT manufactures continue to push towards lighter frames to save weight, they should address this area. It is not that hard to add frame plates on day 1 as they know people have to use a WD hitch on these heavy TW campers. They are letting the WD hitch mfr deal with it.
John
