JBarca wrote:
took the preemptive strike before issues showed up.
Yes, it seems with the Reese stuff, that's required. Basically you need to re-engineer the system. The thing that wasn't obvious to me is that adding through bolts and backer plates, etc. is not "insurance" against some event like a sharp turn or backing and a tight angle into a camp site. You need it just to get out of the driveway.....
JBarca wrote:
At that time this did not show up in the instructions as it does now, only knew by phone call.
Mine said to use a self tapping bolt only for Jayco trailers with coupler at the bottom.
JBarca wrote:
Mine only have 2 holes in the bracket to allow it to be bolted. The set screw pinch bolt must be in place or the entire bracket will bend off the frame at the top pivoting on the 2 lower snap up bolts.
This implies another pretty large point stress on that thin steel frame. Can Reese really claim they have a soundly engineered system for current frame designs?
Based on my conversations with tech support, I think Reese believes that all failures related to their system are simply unexplained outlier events or installer error. I'm not sure they are even considering the possibility that their design may not be compatible with currently shipping trailers.
JBarca wrote:
Seeing your tube frame crush like it did really starts to question this setup.
I don't understand Reese's lack of concern for the frame issues.
I'm trying to stay optimistic until I get the dealer to determine if the frame will be covered under warranty. Waiting weeks for an appointment to determine coverage is frustrating.
I'm hoping that at the very least I'll have a formal statement from Coachmen as to whether the Dual Cam system is compatible with the frames on their heavier trailers.
JBarca wrote:
I have a camping buddy with a Jayco and a 1,200# Reese DC and they are tube frames. I'll have to check he may have increased now to 1,500# bars. He did through bolt the snap ups and put a full backer plate on the inside. He has had the rig now many years and it not come up as an issue for him, again he bolted it to prevent the start of the problem. Which seems to point to being key. Once the bracket starts to bend or the frame deflect, all bets are off.
Yes, so more re-engineering to get it to work. Also, it seems that the margin of safety with respect to protecting the frame is pretty small.
JBarca wrote:
The rigidity of the tube frame for sure is in question. Is his older camper thicker?
Yes, good question. Why use 1/8" tube vs 1/4" C. The 1/4" C should only be a little heavier. It would stand up to these systems better. And it would be easier to maintain with respect to rust prevention.
JBarca wrote:
the Reese SC hitch
I looked at that. Some (most?) Reese competitors have a no drill solution as well.
I can't imagine what caused Reese to go from a no-drill to self tapping screw solution.
JBarca wrote:
As TT manufactures continue to push towards lighter frames to save weight, they should address this area. It is not that hard to add frame plates on day 1 as they know people have to use a WD hitch on these heavy TW campers. They are letting the WD hitch mfr deal with it.
I think it's getting put on the customer to some degree as well. For example, I installed this according to the instructions and have had no "abnormal" towing events. Reese has already stated that they're not interested in dealing with the frame.
Now Coachmen may step up, or even better, they may work with Reese to remedy things for everyone who may be impacted. I'm doing my best to keep an open mind. Waiting many weeks to even get it looked at for warranty consideration is frustrating...
What would be really interesting is if a Reese competitor stepped in and said "we have a better system - we'll fix you up"...