Ductless AC instead of roof mounted AC

lastword wrote:
I will stay with 120v at 7amps.

I'm also looking at making a relay that will hold the compressor off when the refrigerator or microwave is starting. Something that monitors the amp draw/power coming into the RV. When a threshold of amps is drawn by something the control circuit/wire to the compressor is held open (compressor off or wont start). Make the threshold settable.

Assumed usage:
Microwave 5 amps
Refrigerator 3.5 amps
Ductless ac 7 amps
so about 15.5 amps when all is running and assume 2x when it tries to start

As long as more than one thing does not start within a few seconds of each other all is swell!!

Thoughts?

The microwave will use more power than that; the oven's wattage rating is output power, and AC power consumption is at least a couple hundred watts more. Most these days are at least 900W or so output, so 10+ A. There's no appreciable extra startup surge for a microwave.

3A for an RV fridge is about right (and again no startup surge). A residential fridge uses a lot less running (1A or less) but more when starting up or defrosting.

The starting power for the mini-split air conditioner might not be much if any more than the running power, since the units typically use a variable frequency inverter motor drive circuit. It definitely ought to be much less, relatively speaking, than a standard RV air conditioner.

Don't forget the converter or inverter/charger, which if the batteries are low can be consuming several amps as well.

I would not worry too much about automatic load management for a 30A power source. Many 30A RVs (mine included) have an air conditioner and a microwave, and many people (myself included) use them simultaneously without trouble if there are no other major loads. For a 15A connection, probably just turning the thermostat off before microwaving would do the trick and not need anything in the way of fancy wiring.