Typical and have real experience with my Silverado C10 Big Ten...the HD version of
the half ton for that era model line...AKA...it has a higher GVWR than the 'regular'
half ton
Rear GAWR is +4K lbs. Compared to my Suburban's 6K RGAWR, which is a 3/4 ton Sub
Installed 1 ton coil helper springs (Timbren's are just rubber bumper stops to
increase the spring rate).
So my Silverado has a +4K RGAWR + 2K helpers = +6K total spring capacity, but
the RGAWR remains +4K
I do haul firewood and pellets for the winter heating season. Anywhere from 2.5K
to 3.2K worth and only drive on surface streets at 20mph. Ditto dirt,
gravel, etc
Used to take the freeway, but had to replace the rear axle bearings almost every
year while doing that.
Now change them when they fall apart from the over load. That is about every 2
or so years
I also have LT tires, 33/12.5R15LT load range C with a max sidewall listing of
35 PSI
I've also converted my K5 (no longer own it) with a Dana 60 front axle and
GM 14 bolt rear. Along with new leaf springs for both ends....bottom line
is that it was still a bobbed half ton framed 4x4 Blazer. That is
1 ton suspension and axles on a half ton vehicle
Decide if you the OP believe in your OEM's ratings or not.
It not, then do whatever, but note that you have taken the OEM(s) off both the
warranty and liability hook...to assume them yourself
If yes, then gather the ratings up and do the simple math on what you truly rated for
and go out and actually weigh your TV & trailer...fully loaded
If no trailer yet, then do NOT use their dry weights...use their GVWR weights
as the most conservative way
The risk management decision (AKA Gambling) is the OPs alone. Having as stack
of print outs from advisers saying 'sure you can', etc will have them NOT provide
any warranty or liability for you
