We'll be camping in the Grindstone Recreation in the George Washington & Jefferson National Forest over the July 4 holiday. This will be my fist time towing our HTT in the mountains (beach driging is a breeeze!). Any hints or advice? I've scoured the forums and collected:- Check all fluids & tires- Take it slow and easy- Increase the brake controller setting- Enable tow/haul mode

Have brakes adjusted on the trailer.

Gear down going up and gear down especially going down. Don't ride the brakes on either your truck or trailer.

It can't be stressed too much - Don't Ride your brakes or you will end up without any brakes. Use your transmission and gear down going down hills. When you brake, stab them firmly and slow way down below your desired speed, then get off them until your speed creeps up too high then stab them firmly again.Use lower gears in your transmission (engine braking) to keep your speed down.

ricks99 wrote:We'll be camping in the Grindstone Recreation in the George Washington & Jefferson National Forest over the July 4 holiday. This will be my fist time towing our HTT in the mountains (beach driging is a breeeze!). Any hints or advice? I've scoured the forums and collected:- Check all fluids & tires- Take it slow and easy- Increase the brake controller setting- Enable tow/haul modeFluid Checks: I would go beyond "checking" and perform these services instead.**Engine Coolant**Have you ever done a drain and refill in the truck? It's now 10 years old so this is a perfect opportunity.**Transmission Fluid**Have you dropped the pan, replaced the pickup filter and spin-on cooler filter, and refilled with fresh ATF+4? If not, this is the time.**Brake Fluid**Ever had the brake lines flushed? I would if it was me. Brake fluid is hydroscopic. Water and other contaminants in the fluid make it less compressable: AKA less braking power.**Axle Gear Oil**Has that been drained and refilled (both if 4x4)? Again, now is the time. Be sure to use the correct amount of limited slip additive if you have a limited slip differential (and if Ram requires it).**Brake Pads**Is the thickness good? If you're close to the 'warning screechers' I'd do a brake job before you leave.I would not increase your brake controller setting. Set it based on the manufacturer specs and leave it there. Biasing more braking to the trailer could cause the trailer wheel hubs to overheat.Tow/Haul Mode should be used whenever you're towing anyway.As others said, use your lower gears for engine compression braking when descending a hill. This will save you worlds of grief by keeping the brakes cool. A good rule of thumb is to descend the hill in the same gear used to climb it.I know I'm a bit of a nut when it comes to PM stuff. But, I just towed my 14K 5er over 4100 miles through the mountains in Wyoming with ZERO breakdowns related to PM items. Example: I checked over the brakes thoroughly before I left and found the rear axle seals on the outer hubs were leaking. I was able to fix the problem at home for only the cost of seals and new parking brake shoes. That would have been a very expensive fix in a shop somewhere on the road.I had one small issue, an OEM connection in the coolant hose leak, but it was a known issue that I hadn't researched previously. Had I known about that fitting problem I would have replaced it before I left. Basically, I like to address things before they can become a problem. A bit of money spent ahead of time is much better than a huge expense and inconvenience while traveling.KJ

troubledwaters wrote:It can't be stressed too much - Don't Ride your brakes or you will end up without any brakes. Use your transmission and gear down going down hills. When you brake, stab them firmly and slow way down below your desired speed, then get off them until your speed creeps up too high then stab them firmly again.Use lower gears in your transmission (engine braking) to keep your speed down.Read this post ^^ three times. A light steady application of your brakes to maintain speed will cook them. Engine brake to avoid using brakes to the extent possible and then when that's not sufficient get on them to slow down below your target speed and get back off of them again. Do not ride them.

First time mountain towing | Good Sam Community

coolbreeze01
Explorer
Jun 27, 2017
If you are using your brakes often enough that heat is a concern, you are in too high of a gear.
BarneyS
Explorer III
Jun 27, 2017
I would go to 2 or L manually if necessary. I wouldn't let the transmission handle it as it would probably shift up into a higher gear as soon as the speed allows. OD would most likely not operate in the lower gears so no need to turn it off.
Barney
ricks99
Explorer
Jun 27, 2017
Regarding the advice to use a lower gear... should I manually go to 2 or L (I have an automatic) or keep O/D off and let the transmission handle things itself?
mkirsch
Nomad II
Jun 27, 2017
Lynnmor wrote:
Keeping this old wives tale going is only promoting the idea that playing with brakes in some fashion will get an inexperienced driver to the bottom of the mountain safely. Causing cycles of high heat then no heat repeatedly is not going to do anything worthwhile.

So you are saying we should ride our brakes lightly all the way down the mountain then?

Maybe we should just not use brakes at all?

I haven't seen you offer up a viable alternative.
IdaD
Explorer
Jun 27, 2017
time2roll wrote:
Lynnmor wrote:
You do know that stab and stub braking is taught to drivers using unbalanced air brake systems? You either use the brakes or you don't, jerking them on and off will accomplish exactly nothing.
Yes and what trailer braking system is perfectly balanced?
I am not sure my truck alone is perfect.

I don't think the motion is to jerk them on/off but rather to apply moderately firm for 10 to 20 seconds to drop 15 to 30 mph and then let it coast back up to speed.

Yes. The point isn't "stab" them, it's to get on them to reduce speed relatively quickly and then get back off of them so they aren't under a constant load all the way down the grade.
Lynnmor
Explorer
Jun 27, 2017
All brakes on a trailer are connected to one wire so they all get the same current. All brakes on the tow vehicle are connected to the hydraulic system so they get the same braking.

An air brake system has valves that open and light braking may not activate all brakes causing some to not share the load. A trucker may be pulling a trailer of unknown braking ability.

Keeping this old wives tale going is only promoting the idea that playing with brakes in some fashion will get an inexperienced driver to the bottom of the mountain safely. Causing cycles of high heat then no heat repeatedly is not going to do anything worthwhile.
time2roll
Nomad
Jun 27, 2017
Lynnmor wrote:
You do know that stab and stub braking is taught to drivers using unbalanced air brake systems? You either use the brakes or you don't, jerking them on and off will accomplish exactly nothing.
Yes and what trailer braking system is perfectly balanced?
I am not sure my truck alone is perfect.

I don't think the motion is to jerk them on/off but rather to apply moderately firm for 10 to 20 seconds to drop 15 to 30 mph and then let it coast back up to speed.
time2roll
Nomad
Jun 27, 2017
ricks99 wrote:

Any hints or advice? I've scoured the forums and collected:
- Check all fluids & tires
- Take it slow and easy
- Increase the brake controller setting
- Enable tow/haul mode
Those are good for any trip. Don't forget tire pressure.
Although I do not see the need to adjust the controller.

tow/haul should avoid hunting but go ahead and pull the lever if needed.
jaycocamprs
Explorer
Jun 27, 2017
Lynnmor wrote:

You do know that stab and stub braking is taught to drivers using unbalanced air brake systems? You either use the brakes or you don't, jerking them on and off will accomplish exactly nothing.

The biggest advantage of stab braking comes from systems with multiple wheel ends, the more the better. It is virtually impossible to adjust the brakes equally across all wheel ends. By braking hard you insure that all wheels brake, light braking may not engage the brakes on all wheels. You want to spread the heat to all wheels. And a combination of hydraulic and electric breaks is an unbalanced brake system, just not air.
Lynnmor
Explorer
Jun 26, 2017
IdaD wrote:
troubledwaters wrote:
It can't be stressed too much - Don't Ride your brakes or you will end up without any brakes. Use your transmission and gear down going down hills. When you brake, stab them firmly and slow way down below your desired speed, then get off them until your speed creeps up too high then stab them firmly again.

Use lower gears in your transmission (engine braking) to keep your speed down.

Read this post ^^ three times. A light steady application of your brakes to maintain speed will cook them. Engine brake to avoid using brakes to the extent possible and then when that's not sufficient get on them to slow down below your target speed and get back off of them again. Do not ride them.

You do know that stab and stub braking is taught to drivers using unbalanced air brake systems? You either use the brakes or you don't, jerking them on and off will accomplish exactly nothing.