Help selecting proper tow truck

souraider wrote:
This is a little closer to your area.

2007 F350

i thought. Everyone was saying not to get the 6.0 diesel so the 2007 is not an option?

Because if it is then I would just get the 2007 I originally posted for $9,000.
I plan to take it to a mechanic to have them inspect it

I don't care what the exterior or interior looks like as long as the trucks engine will lazy for me because I'm only using it towing

The only requirement is 4 doors or atleast a super cab.

I really don't even care if it's a ford, dodge...ect...

Fyi I'm located on houston

This is a little closer to your area.

2007 F350

OK OP her is the perfect truck for you! Craigs List Seattle. "2001 Dodge Ram 3500 Truck, Ideal for Heavy Towing - $16000 (NE Seattle)"

One owner $16,000 100K, completely setup to tow!

Maybe someone can add a link, thanks!

The 2007 diesel is low price for a reason, the engine might be close to getting that $15,000 repair to it. . . .

X2 on that. Before you consider buying any 6.0 find out if it has been bulletproofed. If not ask to take the vehicle on a test drive with a Scan Gauge hooked up to the truck. Check the deltas between the engine oil temperature and the coolant temperature. While operating in a WOT situation you should not have more than a 15 degree difference. If the oil is more than the 15 degree spread then you oil cooler is probably on the blink...trouble could be on the way. You will also want to check the voltage level of the FICM (fuel injection control module)...should be consistently above 45.

Many owners have enjoyed a trouble-free 6.0 experience, but buyer beware.

In 2005, Ford really changed the GVWR for the F-250/350 series trucks. They changed from the F-250 being 8,800 in 1990 - 2004 all the way up to 10,000 pounds in 2005, while the F-350 SRW went from 9,900 to around 11,500 pounds.

So a SRW F-350 that is 2005 and later should tow the trailer in question, but not much heavier, due to the hitch weight. The dually would be fine, except for the problems that Ford had with it's International engines. International fixed it by installing coolant filters on all their trucks with the 6.0 and 6.4L V8's. Ford never did recall all it's trucks to install coolant filters, but anyone can buy a kit from Napa and install their filter in the heater hose lines. I even put one in my new 1997 Ford based 460" Bounder motorhome. It picked out a lot of sand from the engine coolant, when it plugged up in September of 97. It was barely 9 months old at the time.

Napa part # FIL 4019 is the kit to install it, FIL 4070 is the coolant filter that you will need - if the prior owner did not install one already. What happens is the coolant plugs the oil cooler with junk, then the exhaust gas cooler overheats and coolant can leak into the engine, basically doing around $15,000 in damage. ..

Better to install the coolant filters every 500 miles for the first three filters, then once a year after that. . .

Once the coolant filter is installed, then the oil cooler is not likely to plug, and EGR gas cooler is probably not going to fail. .. Do a search for the 6.4L Diesel problems, or look for the 2011 and later 6.7L Ford diesel. Once Ford started producing them, they did not have nearly as many failures. However no matter the engine, I would still install the coolant filter just to have long life of the coolant hoses, water pump, and radiator. It will take out the minerals that block the radiator, and would reduce the heat exchanger loss while driving.

Dodge also makes a nice diesel pickup. So is the Duramax diesel. You probably would require a dually if you want to stay within the GVWR of the trucks. Only the 2005 - current supercab or regular cab F_350 SRW can handle 3,000+ pounds of cargo before exceeding it's 11,500 GVWR.

You can find Ford towing guides here.. http://www.fleet.ford.com/towing-guides/

Yes the trucks have improved a lot over the years. I would recommend a 2011 or later F-350 SRW for your load, while the dually will also work, it will have a much stiffer suspension. The 2007 diesel is low price for a reason, the engine might be close to getting that $15,000 repair to it. . . .

Good luck,

Fred.

You need to look at trucks 2011 and newer. That is when the payload ratings were increased.

Go over to the Escapees HDT Forum and do some reading.

You will be a lot happier (and safer) in the long run with a true heavy duty truck and one can be had for a reasonable price.

I've put 100k on my Volvo (now pushing 700k) and I will never again tow with anything else.

Cummins12V98 wrote:
10K is the real problem finding any decent DRW Diesel.

IMHO one of the best most dependable older DRW trucks out there would be 01.5 or 02 RAM Dually with a 6sp stick. That truck if you can find one will last many years with little maintenance. It ain't going to be 10K!

X2!
You can find them but unless beat to heck going to be in the $15k range. I think we stole our 2001 2500 when we paid $12k and a POS F250 (about $14K total value). That was four years ago at 234,000 miles. It now has 287,000 miles, and would not sell for any less.

No Edit: see you upped the budget a bit, you might find a good Ram 3500 DRW, in that range early 2000's.

So what year/model should I go for in a ford?

I could prob up my budget to maybe 15-17k if needed

What year ranges and engines should I target? Drw a must?