New 30' TT w/ SUV TV, numbers check
Hey everyone, I've done a lot of the basic math already - but I'm aware that many of you will drill down into every ounce of weight / specs humanly possible, so I figured I'd see if anything jumped ou...
Forum Discussion
Without real weight numbers, its just a guessing game. Your payload calls for a trailer that Grosses no more than 7100-7300#. At 13% TW, thats roughly 920-950 pounds on the ball, leaving you roughly 430# for passengers and gear.
The lighter the load in the trailer, the more payload you will have left. That 5400# dry weight is meaningless, you need the actual loaded weight, trailer with all your stuff in it.
I pull a 28' Coleman with an F150 Screw 5.5 bed, 1470# payload(1580 in my new one) with 11% TW of roughly 680-730# depending on the water tanks, it tows very well, but if the hitch it off a little it becomes a sway monster.
Reason I mention it, is the wheel base. The SCrew F150 with 5.5 box is 145" of wheel base. Much longer than the LR3 at 113", same as that Expedition in that video who was clearly pulling way too much trailer for that vehicle. Your trailer at 30' is more than I would feel comfortable with in my F150.
If anything, that short wheel base can become a handful under the right(really wrong) conditions. Just something to be aware of. I hold to a philosophy of, just because it can, doesn't really mean it should.
Get it loaded up as you would, dishes, cookware, clothing, bedding, towels, etc(all these things are not accounted for in dry weight). All the things you would take with, including food, and head over to the scales. Make sure you have proper weight transfer and that you are not overloading the TV axles or GVWR(which if you loaded properly and have a nearly empty TV should be fine).
When driving, keep the speed down, the faster you go, the more likely sway can be induced, Be watchful of cross winds, keep your head on a swivel for passing Semi's in the RVM, as they can catch you by surprise, so you can be prepared for the push, and be mindful of long bridges. You should be ok, but after towing a few times, you just might realize you need a longer, heavier vehicle for that trailer.
The lighter the load in the trailer, the more payload you will have left. That 5400# dry weight is meaningless, you need the actual loaded weight, trailer with all your stuff in it.
I pull a 28' Coleman with an F150 Screw 5.5 bed, 1470# payload(1580 in my new one) with 11% TW of roughly 680-730# depending on the water tanks, it tows very well, but if the hitch it off a little it becomes a sway monster.
Reason I mention it, is the wheel base. The SCrew F150 with 5.5 box is 145" of wheel base. Much longer than the LR3 at 113", same as that Expedition in that video who was clearly pulling way too much trailer for that vehicle. Your trailer at 30' is more than I would feel comfortable with in my F150.
If anything, that short wheel base can become a handful under the right(really wrong) conditions. Just something to be aware of. I hold to a philosophy of, just because it can, doesn't really mean it should.
Get it loaded up as you would, dishes, cookware, clothing, bedding, towels, etc(all these things are not accounted for in dry weight). All the things you would take with, including food, and head over to the scales. Make sure you have proper weight transfer and that you are not overloading the TV axles or GVWR(which if you loaded properly and have a nearly empty TV should be fine).
When driving, keep the speed down, the faster you go, the more likely sway can be induced, Be watchful of cross winds, keep your head on a swivel for passing Semi's in the RVM, as they can catch you by surprise, so you can be prepared for the push, and be mindful of long bridges. You should be ok, but after towing a few times, you just might realize you need a longer, heavier vehicle for that trailer.
