PRECAUTIONS WHEN OVERNIGHT IS BELOW FREEZING

Bill.Satellite wrote:
There are 2 pieces to the puzzle.
1) The hose from the faucet to the RV.
2) Holding tanks inside the RV.

My personal recommendation is that anytime the outside temps are expected to be below freezing you fill your holding tanks, disconnect and drain your fill hose and turn on your water pumps. That's all that needs to be done if the temps will be in the 30's.
If the temp is expected to be in the 20's or below then you are likely going to need to provide to your holding tank are as well. Most RV's are setup such that the coach heat also heats the tank area. You need to verify that yours does or does not. You can also add small propane electric heater in that bay if you have the room and connections available and there are electric heat mats which can be installed if you are looking for ways to avoid turning on the heat (making an assumption here).

In my previous motorhome I would sometimes put an electric lamp in the area of the water tanks and associated plumbing. I would turn it on at night whn I expected temps to be well below freezing. The bulb (about 100 watts) supplied enough heat to do the trick.

I don't think 30 degrees F will be a problem. I've camped in temps a little lower than that without any isues . Keep in mind that the lowest temps often occur just before dawn. A short while later the sun is up an all is OK. If you really don't want to take any chances you can set the furnace to a relatively low temperature but I probably wouldn't bother with it since it takes a while for water to freeze solidly enough to cause damage. And, just because it's 30 degrees outside doesn't mean it's the same inside or wherever your pipes are located. I'll bet it's a couple of degrees warmer.

Matt_Colie wrote:
DRM,

You sure got a lot of answers.

Some were better than others, but let me share some experience based suggestions.
This is all based on you living in the RV and heating the interior.
Otherwise - winterize it now.

30°F overnight is not much of an issue, but drain and stow the potable hose and slinky before night fall if you plan to depart in the morning.

35°F days and 25°F overnight, not much different but it is a good idea to bring in the potable hose. It won't be damaged, but it will a PITA to deal with in the morning.

Below 27°F all day. This is when things get rough. It will (of course) be colder at night, and the 27° is enough that often trickling water will freeze. Everything in the unheated spaces should be prepared to freeze. The black tank and such won't likely be harmed, but if you rinsed the macerator when you dumped last, that can be hurt and the gray water can freeze and break things. The answer to both of those is to not rinse after dumping and throw some pink stuff into the gray tank so the dump plumbing is at least a little protected.

Winter "camping" can be a very good time - if you are really ready to deal with it.


Matt

Yes Matt and it is much clearer now. Don't think we are going to have any problems, daytime higs are suppose to be in the mid 50's. Thanks to all.

Drain outside hoses and leave fresh hose disconnected or stow it.

At 30,that's about all you need do.

I hit that on the 24th per AccuWeather, alas, they turn the water off on the 23rd so I'll have done that already.

DRM,

You sure got a lot of answers.

Some were better than others, but let me share some experience based suggestions.
This is all based on you living in the RV and heating the interior.
Otherwise - winterize it now.

30°F overnight is not much of an issue, but drain and stow the potable hose and slinky before night fall if you plan to depart in the morning.

35°F days and 25°F overnight, not much different but it is a good idea to bring in the potable hose. It won't be damaged, but it will a PITA to deal with in the morning.

Below 27°F all day. This is when things get rough. It will (of course) be colder at night, and the 27° is enough that often trickling water will freeze. Everything in the unheated spaces should be prepared to freeze. The black tank and such won't likely be harmed, but if you rinsed the macerator when you dumped last, that can be hurt and the gray water can freeze and break things. The answer to both of those is to not rinse after dumping and throw some pink stuff into the gray tank so the dump plumbing is at least a little protected.

Winter "camping" can be a very good time - if you are really ready to deal with it.

Matt

I use a PIRIT hose. Just plug in and no worries.

SDcampowneroperator wrote:

Tom N wrote:
I just leave a faucet drip. My water hose has never frozen. I've been down to at least 20 in Crystal River, FL.

Of course you have to have your gray tank valve open if you leave a faucet drip.

-Tom

Tom, a dripping faucet will keep your fresh hose from freezing, but the very slow trickle through the stinky will freeze it up. A 3" icycle. Want to wake up to a n overflowing gray tank and the rig flooded? How about the waste of the water? Conservation of resources is the responsibility of us all. It takes electricity to provide the water, then to treat it.
Please use your fresh tank and pump, you will always have water without wasting or concern of freezing anything.

I have been in the low to mid 20’s for a week or better day and night with the water trickling and never froze the slinky… do it almost every year before I leave to go south… even in those temps the moving water that is still above freezing will flow fine...

now you do need good drainage through the slinky so nothing interrupts the flow…
keep a clear extension or elbow on the outlet and you can easily monitor it for freezing…

There are 2 pieces to the puzzle.
1) The hose from the faucet to the RV.
2) Holding tanks inside the RV.

My personal recommendation is that anytime the outside temps are expected to be below freezing you fill your holding tanks, disconnect and drain your fill hose and turn on your water pumps. That's all that needs to be done if the temps will be in the 30's.
If the temp is expected to be in the 20's or below then you are likely going to need to provide to your holding tank are as well. Most RV's are setup such that the coach heat also heats the tank area. You need to verify that yours does or does not. You can also add small electric heater in that bay if you have the room and connections available and there are electric heat mats which can be installed if you are looking for ways to avoid turning on the propane heat (making an assumption here).

amazing how ONE RV park owner bashes one for something he does NOT like, Nothing to do with the truth. A water faucet left on at a trickle will NOT create a 3" ice cycle overnight with temps in the mid 20's. It has been there for the past week here and I leave the water running a trickle and have NEVER had the sewer hose freeze completely, not even close to a 3" ice cycle.

When you are living in the rv it usually ifs good to low 20s overnight with nothing special done. Y