Questions on battery setup for enclosed cargo trailer

Boomerweps wrote:

enblethen wrote:
I would remove the little break-away battery. Use a standard group 24 deep cycle battery for brakes and interior lights.
You could add an electric jack to the trailer. Charge battery off TV.

Yeah, redesign the stock safety gear ;(

Only an issue if one isn't smart enuff to do it!

Not that hard to remove that little battery. Put in as mentioned a size 24, or a smaller U2? Mower battery on hitch. Or as I did with my enclosed trailer. Put the U2 in back corner. Not best from a eight standpoint. But at 20 lbs, not as bad as a 24 or larger battery.
Another issue with said installed battery, besides probably not set up for lights. Many trailers like this are sent with a single use battery. In other words, if it gets used in a true break away, or if your being an AH to an LEO and they decide to pull cord and do a check that the battery locks breaks. Then decide to do an equal test later. That 2nd test will fail, you have a failed brake system, a fine, and can't pull the trailer until e brakes work again. ....
Any way, better to out a deep cycle bigger battery on trailer if using the lights not hooked to TV if it's wired that way.

Marty

enblethen wrote:
I would remove the little break-away battery. Use a standard group 24 deep cycle battery for brakes and interior lights.
You could add an electric jack to the trailer. Charge battery off TV.

Yeah, redesign the stock safety gear ;(
Leave it alone. Add a separate battery for onboard lights if desired to use them when cargo trailer is disconnected from TV. Needing to light up a cargo trailer when disconnected from the TV is rare unless setup as a workshop, then you need power for the tools anyway. A flood flashlight works great for those rare times, love the free ones with purchase from Harbor Freight.
An electric tongue jack would change power needs but I consider that a luxury item on that size cargo trailer.

I would remove the little break-away battery. Use a standard group 24 deep cycle battery for brakes and interior lights.
You could add an electric jack to the trailer. Charge battery off TV.

Grit dog wrote:
That battery is not for the interior lights, only for the breakaway.
It should not be/is not even wired to the interior or running lights.

This^^^I used a 12v jump pack to power my interior lights, when not connected to TV, which needed to be switched to the running position to operate inside trailer lights (Ford). I added wire to the trailer junction box, with a 12v acc plug on the inside of trailer to plug into the jump pack receptacle.

Jerry

And like Bedlam said, if you want power in the trailer when it’s not hooked to the truck, it is not difficult to setup. And not horribly expensive.
Just make sure your expectations are in line with your setup.
Just for lights, if I’m at home, I have a drop cord run to the trailer for a work light, or fan/heat to keep the trailer and toys dry.
If I’m on the road anywhere, it’s likely hooked to the truck so the interior lights work off the truck battery.

Grit Dog is correct - Even my 20x8 was wired that way. I added a Torklift Solar PowerArmor to my trailer tongue for internal lights and some other uses...

That battery is not for the interior lights, only for the breakaway.
It should not be/is not even wired to the interior or running lights.

It probably has a couple L>E>D> lights. They don't use much juice. You could always add a bigger battery on the tongue if you needed to.

Yes, the battery is in that box. The battery will last plenty long enough for the lights inside (they have very little power consumption), unless you have a habit of not turning them off when not needed.