Readybrake prices
Has anybody found the ready brake for less than $400 ?
Forum Discussion
Bobbo wrote:
wbwood wrote:
Can you use the magnetic lights that plugs into the 4 pin plug? Rather than having the car plugged in , thus running down the battery and having to get something else for that?
You don't understand how the lights are wired.
You don't use the car's battery to run the lights, except for a brief time when the car's brake pedal is pressed.
You either add new bulbs not wired to the car at all, OR put diodes in the car's wiring to prevent back powering the car's wiring. Then you run a wire to the front of the car where it plugs into the MH wiring. The power for the tail lights, brake lights, and marker lights comes from the MH battery/alternator. Like I said, the car's battery won't be used except when the car's brake pedal is pressed. That will be such a short time it won't cause any problems.
While you CAN use magnetic lights, it will soon become more trouble than it is worth. You will be far happier with permanently wired tail lights.
I hope I didn't sound condescending in this answer. I didn't mean to be. The last thing I would want is to make someone hesitate to ask questions. Heaven knows I have asked my share on here.Bobbo wrote:
wbwood wrote:
You are right and why I am asking. I've seen it mentioned on here and seen that they sell things because apparently car batteries get depleted.
There are 2 reasons for battery depletion, one of which doesn't apply to the Ready Brake.
Reason 1 is a Brake Buddy, or similar, plugged into the car's electrical system draining the battery. The Ready Brake doesn't do this.
Reason 2 is the fact that some cars require the key to be turned out of the LOCK position to unlock the steering. Of those cars, some activate the ACC and some don't. If your car activates the ACC whenever you unlock the steering, the various drains can drain your battery. The only solutions for this problem are to pull a fuse to prevent the ACC from pulling power, or running a charge line from the MH to the car's battery to keep it charged despite the draw.
Neither of those is related to the brake lights in any way.
Thanks. Makes sense.- I did buy one bought it from the manufacturer.
wbwood wrote:
You are right and why I am asking. I've seen it mentioned on here and seen that they sell things because apparently car batteries get depleted.
There are 2 reasons for battery depletion, one of which doesn't apply to the Ready Brake.
Reason 1 is a Brake Buddy, or similar, plugged into the car's electrical system draining the battery. The Ready Brake doesn't do this.
Reason 2 is the fact that some cars require the key to be turned out of the LOCK position to unlock the steering. Of those cars, some activate the ACC and some don't. If your car activates the ACC whenever you unlock the steering, the various drains can drain your battery. The only solutions for this problem are to pull a fuse to prevent the ACC from pulling power, or running a charge line from the MH to the car's battery to keep it charged despite the draw.
Neither of those is related to the brake lights in any way.Bobbo wrote:
wbwood wrote:
Can you use the magnetic lights that plugs into the 4 pin plug? Rather than having the car plugged in , thus running down the battery and having to get something else for that?
You don't understand how the lights are wired.
You don't use the car's battery to run the lights, except for a brief time when the car's brake pedal is pressed.
You either add new bulbs not wired to the car at all, OR put diodes in the car's wiring to prevent back powering the car's wiring. Then you run a wire to the front of the car where it plugs into the MH wiring. The power for the tail lights, brake lights, and marker lights comes from the MH battery/alternator. Like I said, the car's battery won't be used except when the car's brake pedal is pressed. That will be such a short time it won't cause any problems.
While you CAN use magnetic lights, it will soon become more trouble than it is worth. You will be far happier with permanently wired tail lights.
You are right and why I am asking. I've seen it mentioned on here and seen that they sell things because apparently car batteries get depleted.- Well
BACK TO THE ORIGINAL TOPIC! Hey OP, did you get the Ready Brake system yet? Did you find it at a price you could agree with? Setting one up is pretty straight forward. I've done some modifications to the install procedures that REALLY make things look and perform a ton better than what Ready Brake calls for. But, my mods do not interfere with the operation of the Ready Brake itself. If you get one, and would like to know the mods, PM me and I'd be glad to send you pics and descriptions of what I've done. Good luck.
Scott Bobbo wrote:
wbwood wrote:
Can you use the magnetic lights that plugs into the 4 pin plug? Rather than having the car plugged in , thus running down the battery and having to get something else for that?
You don't understand how the lights are wired.
You don't use the car's battery to run the lights, except for a brief time when the car's brake pedal is pressed.
You either add new bulbs not wired to the car at all, OR put diodes in the car's wiring to prevent back powering the car's wiring. Then you run a wire to the front of the car where it plugs into the MH wiring. The power for the tail lights, brake lights, and marker lights comes from the MH battery/alternator. Like I said, the car's battery won't be used except when the car's brake pedal is pressed. That will be such a short time it won't cause any problems.
While you CAN use magnetic lights, it will soon become more trouble than it is worth. You will be far happier with permanently wired tail lights.
.....or if you have a toad, such as a Jeep Wrangler JK series, you can use a COOLTECH plug and play harness that doesn't require either of the above or anything else and yes the toad battery is only used for when it's brake pedal is depressed. Later JK's don't have a steering lock that require an ignition unlocking procedure either.
For lighting on the rest, I like making up a light bar or better yet, using a hitch haul that utilizes a hitch receiver on the toad and with a connector on the front and on the back. This is completely independent of the the toad's wiring, so no invasive procedure to it's wiring is required.wbwood wrote:
Can you use the magnetic lights that plugs into the 4 pin plug? Rather than having the car plugged in , thus running down the battery and having to get something else for that?
You don't understand how the lights are wired.
You don't use the car's battery to run the lights, except for a brief time when the car's brake pedal is pressed.
You either add new bulbs not wired to the car at all, OR put diodes in the car's wiring to prevent back powering the car's wiring. Then you run a wire to the front of the car where it plugs into the MH wiring. The power for the tail lights, brake lights, and marker lights comes from the MH battery/alternator. Like I said, the car's battery won't be used except when the car's brake pedal is pressed. That will be such a short time it won't cause any problems.
While you CAN use magnetic lights, it will soon become more trouble than it is worth. You will be far happier with permanently wired tail lights.- Can you use the magnetic lights that plugs into the 4 pin plug? Rather than having the car plugged in , thus running down the battery and having to get something else for that?
wbwood wrote:
Bobbo wrote:
You need either a 7 pin to 6 pin or a 7 pin to 4 pin electrical cord to plug into the tail lights on the Yaris. You are getting either diodes or separate bulbs installed in the Yaris tail lights, right?
Kind of what I was asking. What else would I need?
You haven't mentioned either the Wiring Harness for Towed Vehicle Tail-Lights behind a Motor Home or the Non-Invasive Towed Vehicle Wiring Harness. One of them, or a similar product, is necessary to allow your car's tail lights to function with the MH brake lights/marker lights/tail lights.
And there is a Ready Brute cable that permanently attaches to the Yaris going from the brake pedal to the front of the car. That is what you attach the Ready Brute's surge brake to.
That cable should come with it, right? Like if you buy a ready brake by itself.
Yes, this will be included.
Also, I recommend the Ready Brute Breakaway brake. That is just another cable. The web site will have all the details.
They say the coiled safety cables come with it free. ($50 value)
Those are not what I am talking about. Go to their website and look at the Breakaway Kit for about $92.00. The safety cables are in case the car breaks away from the tow bar, the cables keep the car's baseplate attached to the MH's hitch. The Breakaway Kit is in case the safety cables fail and the car breaks totally away from the MH and becomes an unguided missile headed down the road. That can happen if the hitch on the MH fails, or the baseplate on the car fails, since the cables attach from the hitch to the baseplate.
And, while not NECESSARY, I really like the LED light installed in the MH dash that shows when the toad brakes are applied. It gives me confidence when going down steep grades that I am not burning out my car's brakes. However, I have it wired differently than they recommend. It is not wired to the Ready Brake. I installed a 12v relay on the car's 3rd brake light, and use that to activate my dash light. The dash light won't come on unless the car's brake pedal has been pulled enough to activate the car's brake lights.
Also free is a DL-300 monitoring system that mounts in the dash of the motorhome. That is what that is, correct?
Yes, that is the dash light I am talking about.
Wondering how much it would cost to get the base plate, ready brake cabling and lights installed. There is a dealer about 30 minutes away that deals with Ready Brake. Might be worth a trip over there one day to talk with them about it. I do know that the base plate requires some modification to the front fascia.
The only way to get installation costs is to talk to the installer.
