Reese DC question - frame height

Thanks.

First, I just checked and our A-frame is 5" tall, which you are calling width.

Our coupler sits about 22-24" above the ground when the trailer hooked up and level (closer to 22" IIRC) so that would make it around 17-19" to bottom of A-frame. Can't get an accurate measurement because of how it's sitting outside just now. The ball coupler is on top. Floor level is about 24" above ground level. On taller A-frames, do they perhaps sometimes mount the coupler lower?

I definitely want to keep the trunnion bars. Besides technical/physical reasons, I find them easier to handle and store.

We're getting an oversized/HD frame for the TT that should be 7K lb GVWR along with 2x4400 lb axles. A story behind this, but maybe for another time. This is a custom order so nothing else to compare to. I just called the dealer and they will see what they can find out from the plant.

Related to this, I read the (long) thread on the DC setup a couple of months back. Excellent read. I am going to the opportunity to mount the cam arm brackets better this time with shims to account for the difference in the radii of the A-frame and bracket. I've noticed these brackets have moved a bit which I don't like. Will check square and true, etc. at the same time. I have a feeling the threads on the 4 bolts holding the brackets on may be slightly damaged so am going to order some new ones to be safe. Not sure if I can use a tap and similar bolt without having to use the Reese one.

myredracer wrote:
We have a new TT coming shortly and it has an 8" high frame on it. Does this mean it will have a taller A-frame too? We presently have a Reese DC WDH with trunnion bars that I just love. If the A-frame is over 6" in height is the Reese WDH going to work? If the A-frame is 7 or 8" tall, will a round bar type work? I prefer not to use a round bar type. I don't want to use any type of friction-based WDH so would the fancier WDHs work on a taller A-frame?

I know there can be clearance issues with the Reese DC which can be resolved with a taller ball mount. But will this work with a taller A-frame?

This just occurred to me and I want to make sure I have anything I need before the TT arrives.

To the 1st question, just because you have a 8" main frame rails, does not means you have an 8" A frame. They step down the A frame when attaching it. I have 10" main frame rails with a 6" A frame. However there are 8” A frames too, just not as common and are very heavy tongue weights.

If you have the trunnion bar hitch now, keep it and use it. It has more advantages over the round bar. That said, you will need to set the trunnion bar hitch up correctly so it does not bind in turns.

Before we go to much further on what the fix is, we and you really need to know these facts.

1. Is the ball coupler on top, in the middle or the bottom of the A frame?

2. What is the width of the A Frame? 4", 5", 6", or 8" are common size steels. 7" is not. 5" fits channel iron but not rectangular tubing. Not that it is impossible to make a 7", it just is not a common steel size. If you have 8" frame rails this points to a heavier camper, 6” is common on trailers in the 7,500 to 12,000# GVWR range. But again need to know what it is you really have.

3. Is your camper a real low rider? Is there at least 13” from the ground up to the bottom of the A frame?

Tell us this or find it out and we can help better. The trailer manufacture knows the answers to those question. What brand, year and model is it? We can look it up and may be able to help identify it.

Congrats on the new camper. Hope this helps

John