Reese Strait Line Questions/Help

http://www.reeseprod.com/support/installation/N66020.pdf

Getting the Reese set up properly takes more time then I think most dealers are willing to spend. If I were you I would start from scratch and follow the instructions. Once set up properly its a great hitch with minimal noise

The dealer also set it up with an empty trailer. You’ll need to adjust as the tongue weight changes once loaded up. It sounds like you’re going in the right direction with more tension as required. You can ease the tension for hook up by using the tongue jack. Once you’ve dropped the hitch on the ball and latched it, extend the tongue jack again lifting the back of the truck and tongue together. Then snap up the brackets. It will take minimal force this way. Once the brackets are snapped up retract the jack.

I believe that you have this type, if all else fails, read the instructions because the dealer did not. Manual

Before you put the trailer tongue on the ball, measure from the ground to the wheel well directly over the front tire, and write that number down. Hook up the trailer without your WD bars and raise the tongue jack all the way so all of the trailer's tongue weight is on the truck's ball. Measure from the ground to the wheel well directly over the front tire again and subtract the two numbers.

My Ford manual says to add WD pressure until the front end comes back down about 1/2 of the amount it was raised.

Most towing manuals I have ever seen say to add WD pressure until the front end comes back to within 1/2" of the original measure, but under no circumstances, have the front end come down lower than it was in the first measure. This is the one I use.

Always have at list 5 links of the chain under tension (I don't count the loose links dangling). If you have only 5 links under tension and need to add more pressure, unhook everything and tilt the tow head down a little more, then start this process over.

The Reese Strait Line's design requires more more requirement to WDH adjustment. The detent on the bars needs to be centered over the cam lobes. A different amount of links under tension will affect this somewhat. I have the same hitch and have experienced scary at 60mph or rock solid stability at 75mph with just fine tuning of the WDH. A video from Etrailer really helped me learn how to adjust easily. That exact video seems to be removed from their site. Basically, after adjusting ball park head angle and # links under tension, loosen the cam arm adjustment nuts. Find a big open paring lot. Drive slowly making a couple S-turns, then drive straight for 200 feet. This will often self center the arms over the cam lobes. Stop, tighten the arm nuts. Enjoy!

Yes, after each adjustment you need to de enter the cams. And when hooking up he bars raise the truck and trailer together with the tongue jack and then put the bars on. You won’t even need the cheater bar to do it! I can’t even pull mine up at level with the bar.
The noise will subside after they are settled in!

Take a long look at this thread for good information on how to set up the Strait Line (Dual Cam) hitch. If you follow the instructions give there, you should have a really great towing hitch.
Barney

Definitely read the thread posted by BarneyS. First problem was having the dealer do the install. You should go back to square one and go through the installation and setup procedure yourself and understand how it all works. Use a torque wrench to check tightness of ball, hitch head and cam arm bracket forming screws.

What are the spring bar ratings? That 38' TT with a 10,500 lb GVWR will have a tongue weight of around 1200-1300 lbs and possibly a bit higher. I would go to a scale fully loaded for camping and get the actual tongue weight (and GVW & TV wts). If spring bars are undersized, you may not be able to get enough wt. back onto the steer axle. Reese has a chart for sizing the bars. Note that Reese is different from the other WDH manufacturers because they size bars by using tongue wt. plus TV cargo weight. See chart below. I *think* if you need the higher rated 1500 lb spring bars, it also requires a higher rated hitch head. I would not be surprised if bars are undersized.

The spring bars need to be set so that when chains are under tension with 5 or 6 links (trunnion bars), you get the correct amount of wt. back onto the steer axle. Bar angle needs to be set correctly to get the right no. of links under tension. Can take a while to get it adjusted where it needs to be. Yes, VERY important to get the bar "crooks" centered exactly on the cams and should be done with the TV & TT loaded for camping. Travelling with a full holding tank(s) can affect the adjustment too depending on tank location.

With that high tongue wt. I would use the heavy duty snap-up brackets and probably should have them also bolted to the A-frame with Reese's forming screws. Periodically check tightness of the cam arm bracket bolts because with high tongue wts. they can sometimes loosen a bit.

Once you have it all dialed in these WDHs are like wow! These WDHs do take more fiddling but def. worth it. A photo or two of your installation could help. Don't forget the other factors that can contribute to sway reduction like correct tire psi and having the TT level to slightly nose down.