Replace waterheater drain plug ?

Atwood uses a NYLON plug for couple reasons
1) Tank is aluminum so the nylon will NOT damage the aluminum threads
The nylon will strip first

2) Temp/Pressure rating of that NYLON plug
PVC/CPVC are NOT high enough temp/press rated to be safely used as a Atwood WH Tank drain plug
T&P Relief Valve Opens at 210*F/150 psi
PVC/CPVC 1/2" plug can fail at those temp/press

Atwood NYLON uses a 7/8" or 15/16" six point socket (depending on vendor)
Suburban uses a 1 1/16" six point socket for the steel anode rod

Both are 'NPT' threads (tapered) so self sealing but using a sealant is OK especially on older threads
Finger tight then SNUG up with socket/wrench

Atwood water heaters use a nylon hollowed out at 1/2 inch plug. The tanks are aluminum. Yes, use some Teflon tape on threads to insure a good seal. The plug does not have to be real tight.
Suburban water heaters use an anode plug combination. The tanks are steel. Good sealant is necessary. Several layers of Teflon tape is good.
I would use the tape not grease, Vaseline or other chemical.

downtheroad wrote:
Walmart: $2.75 for two of them.

grease or Teflon tape tape...sure, why not.

Walmart.com or in the store ??

Plug w/anode rod, you mean?
Most, if not all take a 1-1/16" socket to remove/tighten, all the anodes look about the same size, so I'd say "yes" to "same size".
Yes to lube on the threads. I used a dab of Vaseline on the threads. We didn't drink the water, so no problems there. Ever.

Plumber's grease or a thread treatment like Rectorseal #10 may make future openings easier. Sometimes, a cast thread insert can become elongated/oblique when it is installed in a tank. Check for roundness and clean the threads. A piece of the same pipe diameter or a longish nipple make good thread chasers.

FWIW, my tank has an extension pipe in the tank with a valve. That combination is has been on there, maybe 40 yrs.

Walmart: $2.75 for two of them.

grease or Teflon tape tape...sure, why not.