Replacing Cable Waste Valves

Lar114 wrote:
I'm thinking of trying the Bristol termination valve with cable, by La Salle Bristol mfg. This looks better than the Valterra termination valve. tried to link it, but didn't work. Check it out, and post some opinions.

With the cable wire better contained, I think that would be an advantage pushing the valve shut. With the wide open Valterra design, the wire can buckle if the valve becomes harder to close.

Had to replace my valve with cable setup after it got to hard to close. Cleaned it up, put a little grease on it to help it open and close, but still was too hard to work, so I put a regular T handle on it. Works ok but I've got reach in to pull it open, would rather have the cable assembly. I'm thinking of trying the Bristol termination valve with cable, by La Salle Bristol mfg. This looks better than the Valterra termination valve. tried to link it, but didn't work. Check it out, and post some opinions.

Mine worked great for about a year. Valve stuck, would not close all the way. Installed a basic valve with the "T" handle and a year later works just like new. The black insulation is lowered when traveling to keep the handle closed since valve is in downward angle. Really think it was a waste of time now.

I get the whole enchilada. new cables will not hurt a thing. :W

I found two issues with the dump valves. First, the way they are made, debris can flow back into the cavity next to the blade when the valve is open. The other problem I found was the shaft seal swells and creates too much drag for a cable to push it closed. I currently have new valves and cables that I installed with added tubing so that I can lube the valve easily.

The answer may be the electric valves, but the switches apparently are not made for outdoor use and are not designed for a travel trailer. I will try to come up with a switch solution if I have any more cable valve problems.

For a little bit more, you can convert them to the Barkly electric operated valves. I did the conversion 4 years ago, and not one issue since.

alfredmay wrote:
Buy the entire assembly. Many times the cable is OK but dirt and crud have entered the cable sheath and cause binding.

Many times the cable is *NOT* OK........

It's not expensive to replace the whole works - however, usually the cable is the culprit due to the lousy job the factory does with the routing (check for radical bends which cause kinks).

Been there, done that - first - try replacing just the cable and brackets, make sure the "run" is good for freedom of movement.

Depending on access to the valve, saves lots of unnecessary grief!

:C

Buy the entire assembly. Many times the cable is OK but dirt and crud have entered the cable sheath and cause binding.

I you really want to save money, remove the entire assembly, then clean the blade and lube (with silicone paste and lube the cable with spray lube. Then let it hang vertically for a day. In some cases the valve will be better than new.

The cable parts can usually be transferred to the new valve. Be aware that there can be more than one type even within the same brand. It is best to ask or visit the supplier.

If you are looking at Valterra valves, inspect them firsthand before purchase looking for cracks at the bolt holes.