Factory cable valves and replacements

Now after looking up into the way it's set up there's no way to manually open either valve- the action in each case goes towards the other so the only options appear to be replacing the cables or going electric which there appears to be room for. The bad thing there is the manual override on the electric would not be able to be used. The bend in the cables are dramatic and the gray especially so- maybe there could be a rerouting since right now it's about 200 degrees in a really short span. It's definitely poor engineering.

Got one leaking a bit now, (the black valve...ughhh....) so instead of trying to disconnect all the plumbing for fresh water and other water lines in the wet bay to get access to replace the cable valve...I put the twist-on valve from Valterra that's shown above. Works perfectly and best I remember it was only about $25 on Amazon.

Those types of valves are usually located in tough to reach places. It's hard to say and imho depends on the owner. Replace them if you want. For me I replace valves only when they fail or get VERY stiff. It depends if your bold enough to insert a screwdriver to pry them open before you change. :)

eHoefler wrote:
Convert them to the Barkley electric valves. I did mine 2 years ago, they work flawlessly. Only cost $20 more than the cable replacement.

Until they fail and then what do you do?. Cable Valves are used where there is usually NO access to the valves or they are in a enclosed underbelly. They make extension rods for the manual pull valves. IF the OP has room, he can replace with Manual pull valves and install the correct extension rod to get out the needed pull area for the handle. Also, if they fail that often, it may be how the cable is routed. Making sure you have NO tight bends makes a big difference on operation and longevity. Doug

Convert them to the Barkley electric valves. I did mine 2 years ago, they work flawlessly. Only cost $20 more than the cable replacement.

Twist on valve that"s cool. Might get you out of a jam if needed

the valve is still a slide
its the actuator mechanism thats different


if you have access to it replace it

if no access, then attach an external twist on valve at the outlet

I just snapped a cable last week and the things never seem to reliably close. I have to assume the slide type is far more reliable.

Aaaaah, never heard of them referred to "Cable valves" before. Thanks for answering my question. Most, if not all that I've seen are direct T-handle valves that enter right into the plumbing dump lines and, have no cables attached. But, if yours has cables, well, that's a new one on me, learn something every day.
Scott

The black and grey water valves to dump the tanks.