Replacing coroplast on entire camper underbelly

^X2 Appreciate the followup and the tip on the stool/plywood and bottle jack.

ewarnerusa wrote:
Follow up, project done. The coroplast was around $170 from the dealer. The install took me several of weekends when I could devote some time to it. I learned some tricks along the way that I'll hopefully never have to try again. Main thing being to use jacks or blocks or whatever is handy to hold the sheet up against the camper underbelly. My original plan was to just start at one corner and keep it aligned as I progressed with screwing the new sheet back on. Eventually I'd use other means to hold up the coroplast but I didn't think it would be necessary at first. I should have just done it from the start, it would have helped make it easier to keep aligned as I progressed because despite my best efforts it still got out of alignment as I progressed. What I ended up using was a stool beneath the camper with bottle jack on top of the stool and then a roughly 2'x4' sheet of plywood on top of the bottle jack. I'd raise the jack and plywood until it pressed the coroplast up so all sag was removed. Then I'd start screwing it onto the frame. I'd move the jack setup along with me as I progressed.

Good info, thanks for following up.

Follow up, project done. The coroplast was around $170 from the dealer. The install took me several of weekends when I could devote some time to it. I learned some tricks along the way that I'll hopefully never have to try again. Main thing being to use jacks or blocks or whatever is handy to hold the sheet up against the camper underbelly. My original plan was to just start at one corner and keep it aligned as I progressed with screwing the new sheet back on. Eventually I'd use other means to hold up the coroplast but I didn't think it would be necessary at first. I should have just done it from the start, it would have helped make it easier to keep aligned as I progressed because despite my best efforts it still got out of alignment as I progressed. What I ended up using was a stool beneath the camper with bottle jack on top of the stool and then a roughly 2'x4' sheet of plywood on top of the bottle jack. I'd raise the jack and plywood until it pressed the coroplast up so all sag was removed. Then I'd start screwing it onto the frame. I'd move the jack setup along with me as I progressed.

OP Update
While starting with asking the RV dealer for suggestions may seem obvious, I had avoided doing that expecting that I would need to drop off the trailer for them to repair and pay a fortune in parts in labor. Turns out they have coroplast available from a 70" roll that you can buy by the foot to fix it myself. Perfect! Except they are low on stock and I'll have to wait a week or so for them to get more. The sheet that came off is 70" wide that spans the distance between the trailer frame rails. Must be an industry standard. I believe they said $7/ft which would make it only slightly more expensive for the replacement parts than the ~$22 per 4'x8' sheet from Home Depot. Plus I'd much rather have it be a single continuous sheet going back on than multiple sheets. I'd be afraid of air getting between the sheets and ripping the whole setup off again.

I was worried about the wind ripping the velcro off as well. Did a great job sealing the underbelly. I didn't have any problems with wasps, and only one mouse. I used screws without washers, and experienced some tearing around the holes. I would use washers with your screws. Go stainless steel screws.

I would be nervous about velcro alone, seeing as how mine tore way from air alone. It is certainly possible that I ran over something that bounced up and began ripping it away. I really don't know.

I removed mine for warmer floors. Insulated with attic batted insulation held in place with rigid foam insulation. Reattached sheets with stainless steel screws, and velcro. Sealed all holes around pipes with flexible vinyl material, and Gorilla tape. Only had one mouse this winter. She chewed threw the vinyl next to the tires. Noticed a big difference in temp, and fewer winter visitors. I think I could have just used the velcro. But I'm paranoid, and went with both.

Well our 5er didn't have it before, but as we are going full time I decided to enclose it for warmer floors in the winter. Used 4'X 8' sheets from local plastics dealer for about $12 a sheet.
I also don't have too many issues if access is needed, just ran a length of RG6 coaxial cable full length for our Cellular booster. I took about an hour to. Drop the areas needed and snake the cable through, and reseal.

I would suggest replacing the separate screws and washers with 1/4 thick vinyl moulding about 1 1/4 wide. Available at Home Depot,etc. This provides much better holding power a neater looking job. If you space the screws and mark the strips as to location, you can remove and replace your coroplast much easier. Dave

I crawled around under there for a bit this weekend. I did verify that the center channel for the forced air furnace would be providing radiant heat for the underbelly. I also found a "vent" pointed down there. Directly beneath the furnace there was a nickel to quarter sized hole punched through that fabric/tarp-like barrier that opened up into some type of cavity. Surrounding the hole was metal sheeting like furnace housing itself. It looked like it was intentionally put there directly under the furnace, so I fired the furnace up and sure enough it blew air through that hole into the underbelly.