Hi,I am a newbie, just bought an 88 Minnie Winnie with 75k miles and first thing I wanted to do was fix some issues with the metal roof. I pulled off a cargo box that was installed as it seemed like it was going to leak and patched the holes with Heng's Alkyd Fibered Roof Coating - Elasto-White. Next up I need to repair some areas where the seams on around the sides, vents, etc. is cracking and coming up. I started with just a scraper, but found that the hard roofing material that was used before was put on top of some sort of caulking and wouldn't really chip off very well. I ended up using a heat gun to loosen the material and then was able to scrape most of the caulk and roofing material off. What I am wondering is whether I should continue to scrape and then maybe sand down to the raw roof metal / siding? Or if I am good to just use the Roof Coat on top of the thin layer of caulking that remains? Should I apply a new bead of silicone or other rv caulking and then apply the roofing agent? I am hesitant to get too much further down this rabbit hole, but also don't want to do a bad job.Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I could be wrong, but the black stuff they put on I thought was for rubber roofs (or it may be the white stuff but just old and burnt from the sun... I think I remember some looking that way). Assuming you have the vinyl (I'm not 100% sure) then the acrylic stuff you have is right. That stuff works great. Just keep in mind that if it flexes too much (when you walk around the area) that it may crack. But that sealant you mentioned is flexible to some degree. Great stuff. Just clean it up the best you can and blob it on there good and let it dry and it will hold. Works like a charm and holds up for two or three years easy.

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your Winnie.For the seams I would use Eternabond. Clean the area well and use a roller when applying the Eternabond.Don't use silicone caulk. Dicor self leveling caulk does a good job on horizontal surfaces.Silicone caulk is difficult to remove and nothing will stick to it, including more silicone caulk.When in doubt, ask questions on the forum. There is a lot of information and experience available.Enjoy your travels. Where are the pics of your Winnie? :)

I've done this same job, removing years of different material patchwork off a metal roof. First, put that can of Heng's roof seal on a shelf. You won't be needing that for awhile and it really doesn't act as a joint seal.The thicker material can be removed with heat gun and scraper, followed by a wire wheel with 4" grinder. After the bulk is removed, wash first with mineral spirits and a plastic scrub pad, followed by lacquer thinner or acetone and a rag. The surfaces should now be clean enough to accept a sealing system. Initially, I tried sealants in a tube but eventually taped all the joints and through holes in the roof with Eternabond tapes. My roof is now leak-free and has been like that through two Minnesota Winters. About every other year and sometimes yearly, I check the integrity of my trailer from leaks by performing a pressurized leak test. Search the Forum to see how that is done. It is the most reliable means to see if you have even a pinhole leak.BTW, there is no place on an RV exterior where silicone should be used. It is the Devil. We use urethane or polymer based caulks like Dicor or Geocel Proflex RV.

JPeyton wrote:I could be wrong, but the black stuff they put on I thought was for rubber roofs (or it may be the white stuff but just old and burnt from the sun... I think I remember some looking that way). Assuming you have the vinyl (I'm not 100% sure) then the acrylic stuff you have is right. That stuff works great. Just keep in mind that if it flexes too much (when you walk around the area) that it may crack. But that sealant you mentioned is flexible to some degree. Great stuff. Just clean it up the best you can and blob it on there good and let it dry and it will hold. Works like a charm and holds up for two or three years easy.I've got to ask since I can't get my head around this---why would you think a product is "great", that after two years, fails to seal the area it was intended to seal? Is it because of the ease of application?

westend wrote:JPeyton wrote:I could be wrong, but the black stuff they put on I thought was for rubber roofs (or it may be the white stuff but just old and burnt from the sun... I think I remember some looking that way). Assuming you have the vinyl (I'm not 100% sure) then the acrylic stuff you have is right. That stuff works great. Just keep in mind that if it flexes too much (when you walk around the area) that it may crack. But that sealant you mentioned is flexible to some degree. Great stuff. Just clean it up the best you can and blob it on there good and let it dry and it will hold. Works like a charm and holds up for two or three years easy.I've got to ask since I can't get my head around this---why would you think a product is "great", that after two years, fails to seal the area it was intended to seal? Is it because of the ease of application?Fair question. Because the sun/rain are bastard childs of Satan, they ruin everything. I've been doing this for 12 years.Certainly that stuff lasts longer, but 2 to 5 years is ok. I was being conservative in my estimate. It starts to crack a bit if left out in the sun a long time. Leaks are worse than a Chinese drip torture.

Roof Repair Project (Advice needed) | Good Sam Community

westend
Explorer
May 28, 2015
I've done this same job, removing years of different material patchwork off a metal roof. First, put that can of Heng's roof seal on a shelf. You won't be needing that for awhile and it really doesn't act as a joint seal.

The thicker material can be removed with heat gun and scraper, followed by a wire wheel with 4" grinder. After the bulk is removed, wash first with mineral spirits and a plastic scrub pad, followed by lacquer thinner or acetone and a rag. The surfaces should now be clean enough to accept a sealing system.

Initially, I tried sealants in a tube but eventually taped all the joints and through holes in the roof with Eternabond tapes. My roof is now leak-free and has been like that through two Minnesota Winters.

About every other year and sometimes yearly, I check the integrity of my trailer from leaks by performing a pressurized leak test. Search the Forum to see how that is done. It is the most reliable means to see if you have even a pinhole leak.

BTW, there is no place on an RV exterior where silicone should be used. It is the Devil. We use urethane or polymer based caulks like Dicor or Geocel Proflex RV.
gbopp
Explorer
May 28, 2015
Welcome to the forum and congrats on your Winnie.

For the seams I would use Eternabond. Clean the area well and use a roller when applying the Eternabond.

Don't use silicone caulk. Dicor self leveling caulk does a good job on horizontal surfaces.

Silicone caulk is difficult to remove and nothing will stick to it, including more silicone caulk.

When in doubt, ask questions on the forum. There is a lot of information and experience available.

Enjoy your travels. Where are the pics of your Winnie? :)
JPeyton
Explorer
May 28, 2015
I could be wrong, but the black stuff they put on I thought was for rubber roofs (or it may be the white stuff but just old and burnt from the sun... I think I remember some looking that way). Assuming you have the vinyl (I'm not 100% sure) then the acrylic stuff you have is right. That stuff works great. Just keep in mind that if it flexes too much (when you walk around the area) that it may crack. But that sealant you mentioned is flexible to some degree. Great stuff. Just clean it up the best you can and blob it on there good and let it dry and it will hold. Works like a charm and holds up for two or three years easy.

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