mpcarr wrote:
Scott - Thanks for the perspective. I have an electrical engineering background that put food on the table for a number of years and I am a ham radio operator so I'm not afraid to tackle electrical issues. As you pointed out the vehicle braking system would simultaneously power up the brake light when using Ready Brake. Your kill switch idea is a good one and certainly workable but I figure installing separate sockets keep the MH and the toad electrical systems completely isolated keeps things cleaner. I can just simply pull the brake fuse in the Jeep to prevent the Jeep supplied brake lights from overpowering the other lamps I install in the rear light housings. Having said all that, I am still considering diodes. I have a box of them in the ham shack that should work if I decide to use that option. Diodes will also make the center brake light work. Anyway, thanks for the good advice. I'll let it factor into my final decision.
Mike
Roger that Sir. Now, just for grins, and as many of these as I've done and wired, with the exception of our present toad, the 2011 CRV, I'd like to know how you'd set up the third brake light by utilizing a dual filament system. You see, with amber turn signals, you have a dedicated brake light circuit so, tying into that third brake light with the brake light signal wire from the coach would be easy.
But, how would you do it with a "dual filament" system without that third brake light blinking when either of the turn are signals blinking?
I've seen guys in the past add a third brake light when they weren't popular yet and, that third brake light "flashes" when either of the turn signals flash. But, they work when neither of the lights flash and the brakes are applied. I'm sure that with the proper placement of relays and diodes etc. which, is over my head, it would probably work.
Scott