Sloppy receiver/shank?

I shim mine with 2 pcs of 1" wide metal banding strap. I'm thinking about welding a bead on the top 2 corners and then grinding down for a snug fit.

I drilled a hole in the bottom of my hitch and tapped it for a 1/2 inch thread. I screw a short grade 8 bolt in and snug it up. Just do not drill directly under the pin, an inch or two behind the pin works good. I posted this on here before and received a response of how I had weaken my hitch. I guess those 5/8 inch holes in each side don't count. I have done this on the last 4 vehicles I have owned including my MH so my towbar does not move.

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JnJnKatiebug wrote:
I drilled a hole in the bottom of my hitch and tapped it for a 1/2 inch thread. I screw a short grade 8 bolt in and snug it up. Just do not drill directly under the pin, an inch or two behind the pin works good. I posted this on here before and received a response of how I had weaken my hitch. I guess those 5/8 inch holes in each side don't count. I have done this on the last 4 vehicles I have owned including my MH so my towbar does not move.

So you did a set screw of sorts. Neat idea! Lock things tighter than a weld bead build up.

Here are three fairly well-rated options:

TowAway

HitchClamp

RoadMaster QuietHitch

I'm going to get me one for the next season.

looks good. might have to get one

slop in the receiver is not a bad thing. Makes inserting and removing the stinger easier and have zero effect on towing. When unhitched I can move mine around by a couple of inches (at the far end of the stinger) and after many thousands of miles of towing I can't think of any reason to shim it and risk getting the stinger jammed (I've seen it happen a number of times).

renojack wrote:
In adjusting my Andersen hitch to accommodate my newer trailer one moun ting hole higher, I noticed what may be slop in the receiver/shank fit. Is slop built into this fit or how much is too much? and how to correct excessive slop? add weld bead to shank? replace the receiver or replace factory hitch for an aftermarket?

Any advice or experience. Maybe a tighter receiver would improve weight transfer.

Personally I don't like any slop in the drawbar to receiver interface and feel if that connection is tight w/o any slop it results in a smoother and even quieter WDH/Sway system. Several years ago I purchased the HITCH VISE CLICKY. I purchased the HT-3 and while is says its good for trailers up to 5K I have been using it on my 7500lb TT w/o issues and can highly recommend it. I like this type since it's a positive "clamping" type system and requires no drilling or modding of your existing receiver/drawbar. One suggestion is that it does have to be torqued properly to hold and not loosen and I replaced the stock bolts with some grade 8 and use a torque wrench to tighten the system.

Larry

skipnchar wrote:
slop in the receiver is not a bad thing. Makes inserting and removing the stinger easier and have zero effect on towing. When unhitched I can move mine around by a couple of inches (at the far end of the stinger) and after many thousands of miles of towing I can't think of any reason to shim it and risk getting the stinger jammed (I've seen it happen a number of times).

I disagree with your statement about the slop having ZERO effect on towing since I have towed both with the slop and w/o the slop and THERE IS A DEFINITE DIFFERENCE. Unless one has used one I don't see how you can comment on it's use:h :S Maybe not in actual functionality, but it IMO definitely improves the smoothness and makes my Equal-i-zer quieter with less "popping".

Larry

Good posts! I want to get rid of my slop. When snugging my WDH torsion bars, the top of my drawbar kisses my spare tire. I, too, have a bit too much slop.