Source for toad battery charge...?

Check the voltage on the RV connector with a voltmeter, with the motor not running and have someone start the engine and slightly step on the gas, you should see a voltage of the battery at rest and a slight drop while cranking and then the voltage should go up.

If you notice this you can run a wire from the connector to the battery with an inline fuse, that is the way I have the toad set up, the RV charges the battery in the car while the brake system pulls vacuum for the brake booster and compresses air for the brake piston and draws power from the toads battery and the toads battery is charged with the RV's alternator.

navegator

Gonzo42 wrote:
I am currently setting up my toad for towing and I want to put a battery charge maintainer in circuit. I know which pin on the 6-way connector carries the +V, but it does not currently have voltage.

Should I hook up to the RV chassis battery or to the house batteries?

Chassis battery and mine has a direct connection with an inline fuse in the battery compartment itself.

This link may help you track down the wiring for the +12v.

http://aie-services-2.net/Sprinter/T1N-trailer_wire_harness.pdf

Gonzo42 wrote:
The ignition will be in the "ACC" position. It seems logical to me that the power brakes would eventually deplete the vacuum. The system itself has its own air pump running the cylinder pushing on the brake pedal. Its modulated on an inertial basis, adjustable with the remote control for force and sensitivity.

When selecting which system to buy, I rejected those which required cutting into the hydraulic system, the vacuum line, or anything else that would create another point of failure.

Regarding "depleting the vacuum", I'm fairly sure that I've read that the brake buddy requires you to deplete the vacuum in the car being towed to prevent initial brake lockup on the first brake application.

I added a charge line from the coach to the toad via the 6 pin connector. I connected to the + terminal of the chassis (cranking) battery and to the + terminal of the toad battery. I did fuse both ends for protection in case of a short. It works well.

Fred

You may want to contact Winnebago they should know if it was built with a hot wire going to the connector. If you do have the Winnebago serial number handy not the VIN #. At the web site you can also do a second owner registration link under Resources link. I have used the e-mail address with questions and have gotten good replies. Dick

Service Administration
Winnebago Industries, Inc.
Phone: 800/537-1885
Fax: 641/585-6981
or @ winnebagoind.com - contacts there is an e-mail link

To get 12v to the connector pin, I think your ing. need to be in the on position.

The ignition will be in the "ACC" position. It seems logical to me that the power brakes would eventually deplete the vacuum. The system itself has its own air pump running the cylinder pushing on the brake pedal. Its modulated on an inertial basis, adjustable with the remote control for force and sensitivity.

When selecting which system to buy, I rejected those which required cutting into the hydraulic system, the vacuum line, or anything else that would create another point of failure.

Gonzo42 wrote:

I have a Brake Buddy system that will activate the brake pedal which then uses the toad power for the brake lights.

I've often wondered two things about that setup:
If the ignition really is OFF, will the brake lights still light when the pedal is pushed ? (might not be the same answer for all models ?)

AND with power brakes and ABS systems, what is going to keep the "boost" up to operate the brakes?

I have not yet looked at the back of the connector. When I first acquired the RV I checked every fuse and circuit breaker. Until you first look you would not believe how many fuses and circuit breakers this puppy has. Since I found no problems I am going on the initial hypothesis that there is no wiring at this time.

The toad has aftermarket lights for turn signals that are powered by the RV.

I have a Brake Buddy system that will activate the brake pedal which then uses the toad power for the brake lights. I have wired up the breakaway switch, and wired a second cigarette lighter socket to power the Brake Buddy.

I will study the electrical schematics and see if that sheds any light on the situation before I crawl under the RV.

Thanx for the suggestions.



God us love, but get it in writing. Gypsy Rose Lee

Have you checked the connector to see if it has a wire connected to the +V pin. If you do maybe the fuse to it is missing or bad. I think your 08 Winnie View should have been factory wired to the connector. Dick

I think what you propose is overkill, unless maybe you are using the car battery to run it's own tail and stop lights.

If you insist, then it depends on what gets charged and when but to do it right you would probably need another controller.