Tanks, heat, winterizing....

Thanks all, we normally run pink stuff through the lines when we winterize. Matter of fact, we had CW do it this year for us on the Class C, as the valves where located in hard to reach areas and was completely different than what we had in the TT. Matter of fact, the CW would not do the winterize without running the pink stuff through the lines as they said they could not guarantee it. So I guess they are guaranteeing the winterizing from any damage. We've just found it good practice in the past and have done it since. Also, we don't have a real air compressor, so to speak.

As far as camping goes, we normally close it up in October and then wait until March to open it back up. With that said, I may go ahead and invest in a compressor (have other uses for it as well) and go about it a little different in the future. As I mentioned in my original posting, weather can be unpredictable. We don't want to do cold weather camping. Cool weather is fine.

The reason I was asking the question about the electric heater, was because I've heard of people leaving their RV's plugged in with a heater on inside during the winter. And yes, we are only talking about a 11-12 hr drive.

I don't get this at all!!

I "Winterize" 3 to 6 times a year, we four season camp here in NW Oregon. That said winterizing consists of draining the tanks, blowing the lines and a little antifreeze in the traps.

Our 5er is kept loaded and ready to all year round, so for winterizing blow the lines and antifreeze in the traps, takes all of 20 minutes. I blow the lines that long.

Blow the lines in October, and don't worry about until you head south. One days driving should get you far enough south that you will not need to worry about it.

Hi Jack,

We are currently having a heat wave where I RV. The forecast high is -7 C (19f). A way to prevent freezing is a good modification.

NanciL wrote:
The OP is from NC.
He can make it down to the warm temps in less then a day

Jack L

Hi Heavy Metal,

smkettner has a system that recirculates using water from the propane water heater. Pretty slick! His RV doesn't have an enclosed belly.

It also saves him water when boondocking as he can warm the lines to the shower, or the hand basin without water going to the waste tank.

Heavy Metal Doctor wrote:


I also wonder if anyone has considered winter re-circulation:

In water pumping equipment, we circulate the water to keep it from freezing. You can't put in enough pink stuff to winterize it, so we pump it to keep it moving. People talk about freezups of the lines while camping and having to leave water trickling from the faucets -- same principle. This stuff gets operated down well into temps in the teens and all of the lines / pumps are exposed out in the weather. It is a much higher volume, so that might be a factor. Maybe a little flo-jet pump can't hold out against freezing 6 gallons a minute like a 60 GPM industrial pump does.
I might have to do a little test the next time I get a spare electric pump to play with - let it run outside with a barrel of water to see how cold it will continue to work.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Dave,

The beef is that for some of us it takes 3 days travel to get below the snow line. Using an RV "dry" is a bit of a pain. I don't relish going to a flea bag motel, either.

The OP is from NC.
He can make it down to the warm temps in less then a day

Jack L

You can blow the lines out with a hand pump so any pump you have will be fine

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Dave,

The beef is that for some of us it takes 3 days travel to get below the snow line. Using an RV "dry" is a bit of a pain. I don't relish going to a flea bag motel, either.

I think when this issue hits us, we will take dry rest stops with bottled drinking water kept warm in the TV until we reach ambient temps above freezing rather than going to hotels.

I also wonder if anyone has considered winter re-circulation:

In water pumping equipment, we circulate the water to keep it from freezing. You can't put in enough pink stuff to winterize it, so we pump it to keep it moving. People talk about freezups of the lines while camping and having to leave water trickling from the faucets -- same principle. This stuff gets operated down well into temps in the teens and all of the lines / pumps are exposed out in the weather. It is a much higher volume, so that might be a factor. Maybe a little flo-jet pump can't hold out against freezing 6 gallons a minute like a 60 GPM industrial pump does.
I might have to do a little test the next time I get a spare electric pump to play with - let it run outside with a barrel of water to see how cold it will continue to work.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Dave,

The beef is that for some of us it takes 3 days travel to get below the snow line. Using an RV "dry" is a bit of a pain. I don't relish going to a flea bag motel, either.

I go dry for about 3 days. Flush the toilet with RV anti freeze.. Bottled water to wash and cook with. Blowing out lines is much easier than the pink stuf. About 15 to 20 min to winterize because I have a washer.

Hi Dave,

The beef is that for some of us it takes 3 days travel to get below the snow line. Using an RV "dry" is a bit of a pain. I don't relish going to a flea bag motel, either.

NanciL wrote:
We go to Florida every winter right after Thanksgiving, and I our winterized prior to going.
Ours is a travel trailer, so it might be easier then yours, but all it takes is a little over one gallon of pink stuff and ten minutes.
Many years we use the trailer a couple of times in the fall, and I winterize each time we are through.
I figure it is better to be safe then sorry.

Jack L

Same here. I just do not see where the beef is on the winterizing issue. :h