Winter heat

Propane furnace will work best.
Extension cord will be ok.
Call me if you wish.

I've read where RV'ers have used a light bulb to maintain heat in the RV during the winter months. Not sure how well it works but I remember reading several posts over the years with reference to using a light bulb. Now days it's becoming harder to find an incandescent light bulb to use for the heat source.

I would use a milk barn style 120 volt electric heater. Many have two wattage settings. I run mine on the lower one.
On on board furnace will eat up the propane.

Does your RV heater warm the tanks? An electric heater in the living area will not.

A typical 1500 watt electric resistance space heater draws 12-13 amps and provides about 5000 BTU of heat. A 12 gauge extension cord will be OK if you can keep it about 50' in length.
A portable heat pump/AC unit, like I use in my coach during the Winter travels, supplies about 11,000 BTU's of heating(twice what an electric resistance heater supplies) and draws 1250 Watts or 10.8 AMPS of electric. This could easily use a 12 gauge extension cord. The portable unit also has a fan to move the heat throughout the coach.

Personally I would not attempt that. The excess humidity inside could wreck havoc with your RV. Your much better off buying a big dehumidifier and route the drain hose outside. Leave that run 24/7 all winter. Come your first camping trip the RV will be nice and dry ready for use.

We really need more information. Some of the answers by others above may or may not work depending on how you answer the following questions.

Electric space heaters do not heat your wetbay. Opening cabinet doors does allow more heat to plumbing behind them.

What is the reason or purpose for the 50 degree setting? What is your goal?

Have you winterized? How did you winterize?

How are you storing the fridge? What kind do you have?

If you use the propane heat, you will need to check it once in a while so you can take it to refill if it gets low. A propane furnace does not operate off of 110v from the house. That is not to say you do not need 110v. Here is why, working backwards. Your control boards and igniter are powered by 12v supplied by you battery(s). Your battery is charged by a converter or inverter/charger, which turns 110v into 12v. The converter or inverter/charger is powered by the 110v. Without the 110v, a single battery would die in about 8 hours. Some sooner than that.

So now, back to the questions above.

I leave my vents open a couple inches so moisture will escape.
I do not try to maintain 50 degrees. I try to keep it just above freezing and yes, I do winterize.

donn0128 wrote:
Personally I would not attempt that. The excess humidity inside could wreck havoc with your RV. Your much better off buying a big dehumidifier and route the drain hose outside. Leave that run 24/7 all winter. Come your first camping trip the RV will be nice and dry ready for use.

X2, 3 and 4. I've stored my MH up by Portland and won't do it again unless it's inside and I have power for a de-humidifier. You can set it your sink and leave the gray tank valve open so it drains onto the ground. Leave all of your cupboard and closet doors open also. Heat will help, but the de-humidifier is the first priority.

Bill

flyboykuao wrote:
Hello, I am a newer RV owner. I'd like to keep the unit heated at a minimum heat this winter (near 50 F). I can think of 2 choices: Use a space heater or plug the RV into electricity and then use it's furnace. Can someone please recommend which is better?

If the furnace is your choice - can you tell me if a 110v extension cord plugged from a typical house sock to the RV will supply enough power? I am unfamiliar with electricity and amps - so I am unable to make sense of the furnace specs.

Thanks in advance.

The furnace uses little electricity. After all it will run off the battery. But a LOT of propane. something to think about.