Torque Multiplier Lug Wrench

reluyog wrote:
I carry a conventional torque multiplier and a 3/4" drive torque wrench, but haven't had to use it yet. Previously used a 3/4" breaker bar with a five foot cheater pipe. I'm hoping the multiplier is less work.

Your setup will work great but check your multiplier on the input side as many in your size are 1/2" drive input and 3/4" drive on the output. As I understand your post I am reading it as 3/4" drive on the input side. I use a Proto 6:1 multiplier and it is 1/2" drive on the input side and 3/4" on the output side.

Get yourself one of these!
Barney

jwmll, yeah you figured it correctly. 3/4" input and 1" output. I pack a 1" drive air impact but don't have adequate air supply when I'm on the road, not yet anyway. I'd like to figure that out just to have it, but it's low priority.

creeper wrote:
Just had a tire replaced and the tire shop used a pneumatic version of this, but it had a torque setting in it. First time I've seen something like that and worked well.

Hope it's the last time you see "something like that"!..:(

How do you know it..."WORKED WELL" ??..:R

Prone to error/s for several reasons!..:S

Only takes one "experience" to learn:
An error will result in over torqued lugs stretched or broken studs.
A local repair shop did a great business in replacing broken studs (at Costco's expense) until they (Costco) figured out the following......

A competent tire shop employee will only use a "pneumatic version" (air impact with TQ settings) to get *close* to the desired torque -
....then final torque is done with a *manual* torque wrench.

And - YOU better hear it click *after* torque is applied - which should *NOT* be immediate!
(Otherwise it's over torqued).

There is NO substitute to/for the above method - -
and NO way for you to check on what your lugs were torqued to - w/o backing-off the lugs (loosening) and re-torquing......unless the shop torqued them to *less than* the desired setting.
(Still bad - *maybe* just not *as* bad as over-torquing!)

At tire shop/s:
Know the required TQ for your wheels.
Make sure you AND the employee are in agreement.
(He may have been employed by Taco Bell last week!)

WATCH the wheel mounting - should be the above..:@
(Repeat) You should see some movement -however slight- and hear his wrench click *after* TQ is applied - which should *NOT* be immediate!!
If not, call a halt to the operation!..:(

It will/may save *your* time - and of *YOU* being "torqued" - while waiting for stud replacement!..;)




~

Good (tire shop) words to live by!

And more.....

TORQUE WRENCHES 101:

1. For pickups, TTs & 5th Wheels.

Harbor Freight - good deal (for the price), but short length.
Xln't to toss in your RV compt and forget it.

For home use - the Husky brand from Home Depot (under $100) - is 26" long, with a limited lifetime warranty. Max TQ is 250 ft lbs.

The Harbor Freight breaker bar (or similar) is "OK" - however the pin holding the head can break (had that happen before)..:(
A better choice is a 3/4 "sliding head T-bar" type.
(No pin to break!).

Unless *designed* to remove lugs (etc.), these types of TQ wrenches should *not* be used as a breaker bar or used with a "cheater" for that purpose..:(

Also, always "zero it out" when done, and it's good idea to check your wrench from time-to-time.
See YouTube for lots of "How To": Enter - "Torque Wrench Calibration".

********************************************************************

2. Motor Homes & MDT/HDT - "serious" TQ necessary!

A TQ wrench - like Mod Barney is holding - will run about $200-300 - or more.
The 3/4 drive "Klutch" brand in your 2016 Spring Northern Tool Catalog (pg. 432) is $250., and with a 4:5:1 planetary gear ratio, delivers low torque (488 ft lbs) to high torque of 2200 ft pounds.
Performance Tool brand (same page), range 100-600 ft lbs is $300.

Also see Proto tools etc., for "pro" type TQ multipliers = lots more dollars - and no need to have the monster Barney is holding.

Back to "Tvov" - the OP's question....

Nice "cheap-O" multiplier info and "tutorial" w/pics here..

DIY *HDT* Tire Changing Method

Another Torque Multiplier thread...*here*.
The inexpensive multiplier (Northern Tool) linked in the first post is no longer available, but it was similar to what Tvov referenced and avail on lots of internet sources.

Happy CQ-ing - oops, edit! - That's Ham lingo, I mean "TQ-ing"..:C



:B

ol Bombero-JC wrote:



How do you know it..."WORKED WELL" ??..:R~

How do you know your torque wrench is calibrated correct or works well? That fact is you don't., You're at the mercy who ever made the torque device you're using :R

These are not Costco clowns or cheap harbor freight torque wrenches. A professional tire outfit that specializes in Trucks and buses. I certainly appears to have worked well, the wheels haven't fallen off and they have a stellar reputation in the community.

Nor is anything I could purchase as well made or as expensive as the Snap on stuff they use.

The impact gun was used to get close and then their torque gizmo did the rest. It moves very slowly and you can watch the torque as it's applied on they gauge.

Like I said you have no idea if your manual torque wrench is accurate.