I have a 2003 Yukon SLT 5.3L (K-1500, 5300 V8, Engine Z). Specs are:GCWR: 13000GVWR: 6900 (per door sticker)GVW: 5036 (per VIN lookup)Max trailer weight rating: 7400 (per manual)"Tongue weight should be 10% to 15% of the trailer weight up to 1,000 pounds." (per manual)Wheelbase: 116"Ratio: 3.73 (RPO code GT4, and original window sticker)Swapping the TV is not an option for various reasons. I will be using a brake controller, WDH and swaybar (if not integrated).Now, I'm interested in a 2013 Wildwood 261BHXL trailer.Dry weight: 4569 lbs (per sticker on trailer)GVWR: 7500 lbsCCC: 2893 lbs26' box, 29' total length.Published dry weight is 4314, so I suspect the 4569 is actual weight after factory options are installed.We have 2 adults of average weight and 2 small children as passengers, plus cargo. I'd estimate our cargo will be lighter than some due to the style of camping we do, and the fact that we are coming from a much smaller trailer. I'm inclined to think it is OK since the empty trailer is so light and we rarely travel with any liquid in the tanks. But I acknowledge it's pretty close. And, coming from a small trailer, it just looks so dang long just sitting there my eyes aren't sure they believe it.What do you guys think?

It's probably do able but your truck will hate going up hill. We towed our TH 19' dry weight of 5k with a 2007 Tahoe 5.3 we are also a family of 4. It towed great on flats but struggled up hill. I learned to go slow going up, I just drove behind the slow semis and monitored my gauges and Temps :) I added a k&n air intake, exhaust, auxiliary Trans cooler stiffer shocks all the way around and made sure my brakes were always good to go before we hit the road,used synthetic oil and Trans fluids and never skipped a beat on any service or maintenance. I used the best fluids and parts I could get my fear was blowing Out the engine or Trans We did this for 3 years until I sold my 05 avalanche. We stil have the Tahoe and the truck runs great it's now at 104k miles. The only downside is that you are limited on how far you can travel, for us this all changed last month when we bought our diesel.

if you have 3.73 for rear end you might be OK but I don't think you have that low of a set of gears. any thing higher than that will work your yukon to death

You have enough truck. Go have some fun.

That's the 4L60E transmission, add the biggest external cooler you can.The Yukon has a soft suspension and squishy P-rated tires.Doable, but you'll lack power on the hills. Get a good weight distribution hitch."Real" dry weight on the trailer is probably closer to 5100#.

old guy wrote:if you have 3.73 for rear end you might be OK but I don't think you have that low of a set of gears. any thing higher than that will work your yukon to deathConfirmed: it's the 3.73, per the RPO code in the glovebox, and the original window sticker.

Towing 26' with a 2003 Yukon SLT 5.3L? | Good Sam Community

21 Replies

Golfcart
Explorer
Feb 05, 2016
I've taken 6k lbs up and down some winding steep mountains in my 3.08 rear end 5.3. Obviously I take it easy and watch my tranny temps, but ive never had any issues other than a sluggish truck
BarneyS
Explorer III
Feb 05, 2016
eazye wrote:

Snip...

Maybe this is a silly question but what would happen if we did encounter a hill we didnt have the gearing for? Would the TV just stop, or -gulp- go backwards?

The gear in the Yukon is 3.73.

The tow vehicle would stall out. You would have to hold it in postion with your brakes to prevent rolling backwards. If you could not get going again (which I doubt) you would either have to carefully back down the hill, find some way to get turned around and go back down the normal way, or call for a big tow truck to tow you to the top.

Actually, it would have to be an awfully steep grade to keep someone from making it to the top. You could always creep up in low gear. Unless it was a private driveway, I cannot imagine a public road being so steep as to cause a normal rig to stall out. Maybe there might be some in National Parks that could be that way though.
Barney
eazye
Explorer
Feb 05, 2016
GWolfe wrote:
Coming from an 04 Silverado with the same 3.73 I will suggest to not tow in overdrive, leave it in 3rd and it will be a happy camper.

Thanks for the tip! We are used to skipping overdrive so this shouldn't be too tough.
eazye
Explorer
Feb 05, 2016
blt2ski wrote:
One thing the OP needs to think about. From my standpoint, WHERE in Issaquah do you live? Top of Cougar mtn? base of Suak or Tiger? Pine Lake Plateau? There are a lot of 15+% grades in those area's. While many worry about freeway grades, you may NOT be able to get your trailer to your door on the side roads to your home.

While you may have the power to go up those grades, you may not have the gearing to do so. If you have issues, you may find that a newer 6sp trans Tahoe may need to be in your future, as the 4l80E trans has a 3.08 1st gear, the 6sp a 4.10. The 4l80 in the 25 series trucks is worst yet at 2.48-1. Your current rig is probably better than a 4.33 geared 2500 going up these steeper LOCAL grades.

Marty

Interesting point. We live on the plateau, and even with out old, tiny trailer we preferred the easier ramp through the highlands (but we did both regularly). I wouldn't mind getting stricter about that and going the easier path every time, but gosh what if we forgot!

Maybe this is a silly question but what would happen if we did encounter a hill we didnt have the gearing for? Would the TV just stop, or -gulp- go backwards?

The gear in the Yukon is 3.73.
marquette
Explorer
Feb 03, 2016
I have a 2009 Wildwood 22 ft X-lite that the yellow door sticker says 3615lbs dry wt. I have a 2001 Suburban w/HD towing package. I have a Curt Tru-Track WD hitch. After a 3500 mile trip last summer from Minnesota to Vermont I bought a smaller trailer. I had trouble holding a 60-63 mph speed on the freeway and the Green Mountains were a problem. I think the best way to put it was I was pulling a trailer rather than towing a trailer. The experience was unpleasant enough that planning a trip to Alaska next summer we bought a smaller trailer last fall. I've towed it about 500 miles and loved the experience. I'm sure your Tahoe will pull the trailer and as long as you make short trips and don't expect to go more than 55 mph comfortably. Anyway that is my experience with a similar combination to what you are talking about.
blt2ski
Moderator
Jan 30, 2016
One thing the OP needs to think about. From my standpoint, WHERE in Issaquah do you live? Top of Cougar mtn? base of Suak or Tiger? Pine Lake Plateau? There are a lot of 15+% grades in those area's. While many worry about freeway grades, you may NOT be able to get your trailer to your door on the side roads to your home.

While you may have the power to go up those grades, you may not have the gearing to do so. If you have issues, you may find that a newer 6sp trans Tahoe may need to be in your future, as the 4l80E trans has a 3.08 1st gear, the 6sp a 4.10. The 4l80 in the 25 series trucks is worst yet at 2.48-1. Your current rig is probably better than a 4.33 geared 2500 going up these steeper LOCAL grades.

Marty
GWolfe
Explorer
Jan 29, 2016
Coming from an 04 Silverado with the same 3.73 I will suggest to not tow in overdrive, leave it in 3rd and it will be a happy camper.
BenK
Explorer
Jan 29, 2016
eazye wrote:
BenK wrote:

2003, so a GMT800 and recommend changed it (if the previous hadn't
already) to a traditional receiver. They are in the $200 buck range, plus
about 1 hour to install

Can you clarify what you mean here? Have they recalled the trailer hitch receiver?

Read all of this thread...

GM Receiver Hitch NHTSA investigation update

BenK wrote:

'Swaybar', as WD Hitch component, or rear axle anti-lean bar?

I do not recommend adding a rear axle anti-lean bar...unless you also
increase the stock front anti-lean bar to keep the handling the same.

The OEM dialed in the understeer/oversteer characteristics and changing
the rear can have an oversteering TV that will have a greater jack knife
tendency...not a good thing

I'm not familiar with a rear-axle anti-lean bar. I meant a friction-based sway bar mounted to the WDH, unless I end up getting a WDH with an integrated sway control like the Equal-i-zer.

Some call it anti-sway bar and is confused with the sway bar you
reference.

They can really upset the handling, but most who only install a rear bar
and not dial in the whole vehicle will only experience the negative
side during an emergency maneuver...where they will not have the time
to figure out what they need to do

BenK wrote:

I had a 1973 K5 Blazer (2 door Blazer/Yukon) and installed 1 ton
suspension (Dana 60 front and GM 14 bolt rear...new leaf springs front
and rear) and towed many trailers

It also had commercial class tires with a load range G sidewalls.

Not fun and was all over the place when passing semi's and even passing
a stationary TREE on the side of the road.

But that had 106" wheelbase and was rated for 5000lbs towing and a 450 tongue weight. You clearly know more about trucks than I do, but it sounds like quite a different TV.

You are right, my K5 was is 2 door and yours is a 4 door, with a longer
wheel base. Mine with two classes higher suspension and tires could not
make up for that shorter wheel base

Still, be careful and learn quickly HOW2 handle the setup as any
setup can have issues.

Again, key is proper setup of what you have and the orientation of the
trailer...tongue weight, etc.
lbrjet
Explorer
Jan 28, 2016
Check the max pressure on your current tires. You may be able to add 10 or 15 lbs. I would hook it up and see how it does before spending anymore money.
eazye
Explorer
Jan 28, 2016
soren wrote:
You will be fine. I towed this EXACT combination for tens of thousands of miles, with zero issues. I had the same Tahoe, same drivetrain, including the rears, and another brand of trailer that was the same length, and within a few pounds on the dry weight. I bought the truck used, and immediately added air bags to the rear, and swapped the tires out for E rated LT truck tires. Having owned several Tahoes and Suburbans, I always get rid of the light duty tires and put the air bags on, it makes a huge difference. It is a great combination and should serve you well, including climbing hills, where you won't beat any diesels, but it will get you to the other side with no drama. Good luck.

Thanks, that's reassuring to hear. Sounds like the airbags are a must, and I should also consider new tires.