The Mrs. and I are looking at stepping into the TT realm with our two little ones. We've got a new Yukon XL with the 5.3L package. I'm unsure about the ratio, so i'll have to check the sticker at home. Initially, i didn't think towing the trailer's we've been looking at with this rig was going to be an issue, but the more I read, i'm starting to go into panic mode. I'm expecting to do the usual upgrades including LT tires, WD hitch, brake controller, sway control and air bags. Potentially the trans cooler.The TT's we're looking at are either the Windjammer 3006WK (6,984lbs dry/877lbs hitch weight) or the Laredo 303TG (7,473lbs dry/905lbs hitch weight). Granted, these things are pushing 36ft, and that's scary enough.I'm think I'll be pushing the GVWR limit on this ride, TT dealer says no problem, but that doesn't leave me with the warm fuzzy feeling inside.Basically i want something in a BH over the 29ft mark with nice finishes inside. We've looked at a lot, and these two seems to fit our bill, but may be outside of the Yukon's survivability.... I don't want to destroy a tow that costs twice the trailer.What do the experts say?

Unless something has changed, one of the limits you will run into is the 1,000lb tongue weight limit. The hitch on the Yukon XL is integrated into bumper and not replaceable. It flexes significantly when using a WDH. We towed for 3 years with a 2008 Yukon XL Denali (~7000lb TT) and never felt completely comfortable. The Denali had 1500 chassis with luxury ride, perhaps your Yukon is a 2500 model? The LT tires will help tremendously (we never changed the factory tires). I think it might tow those trailers, but you may not be comfortable, especially in wind.

We went that route when first getting into rv-ing and bought a 33ft dutchman 4 bunks huge slide out. Great camper but our new one is a 31 ft passport ultra light. I am so much happier with this camper. Close inside to the dutchman but a whole bunch lighter. We travel a lot so the lighter trailer is all we need and painless to tow !! By the way have been pulling my trailers with suburbans for a long time !! I love them!! Dont be afraid to look lighter!! A little more togetherness is a good thing.

I'd go a little lighter and shorter if you have to travel in open country (wind) and/or freeway much. Also, you probably won't be able to stay within the burbs weight ratings with those trailers and a few kids and stuff. Maybe doesn't bother you.It's always tough to say no but I think those trailers are beyond the comfort window for a 1/2 ton suburban. But people do it every day.

I'd guess you'd be pushing the limits, but if you are stuck on that size and like the Laredo you should consider the Keystone Bullet 31BHPR. Very similar but 1000lbs lighter dry weight(6440 with an 8K GVWR). Ours weighs in at 7600lbs and 1000lbs on the tongue loaded for our family of 4 with the tanks empty. Love the 2 entry doors and the outdoor kitchen.

Been there, done that...got a different TV to prove it.We had a Yukon XL and we thought it would be great to tow our Rockwood 8313SS. Unfortunately, as much as we enjoyed the TV we had to upgrade if we wanted to have a large SUV to pull the TT. I had a pickup truck (F150) that was geared and set up, but it was not comfortable for the kids or the family dog. I have since upgraded my TV to an older Suburban 2500 that is safe for pulling the TT, comfortable for the children and pet, and overall a much better towing experience.Your '12 Yukon XL will tow a TT nicely, just not a bigger bunkhouse. You may be able to get away with a Hybrid or a smaller BH, but I would not venture into the realm of the 800+ tongue weight and TT that have gross weights over 7,000#.Good luck and happy hunting.

2012 5.3L Yukon XL | Good Sam Community

fosstugz
Explorer
Jul 22, 2013
Ever since i put the external trans cooler in I noticed that the trans wasn't acting right. I figured it was just the wear and tear we had put on it on the two trips with the trailer we'd taken considering the 3.08's. I checked the fluid, and must not have completely removed the air bubble after the cooler install and top-off as I had to add another quart of fluid. Previously I had added about 1/2 quart. Amazing enough, once I added the additional fluid, I have had NO issues.

We pulled again the last two weekends over the pass to the coast and she pulled like a champ. It was 100F ambient at the top of the pass and even though the engine temp was creeping in the 230F range basis 2nd gear at 3000RPM and the AC on, the trans temp never hit 175F.

I decided to keep the trans in regular auto T/H mode and not play with the manual mode. I didn't have one issue going or coming.

I think the fluid did the trick on several fronts. I'm pretty happy about the set-up right now and don't think i'll be doing the 3.42's anytime soon. Although, I do want to pull up the Sierra's, we'll see how far I get. At 7mpg, it won't be far........
Tystevens
Explorer
May 30, 2013
The Texan wrote:
Mine is programed like yours APT. The M4 just means the highest gear it will run in is 4, otherwise it will go through the gears from a start like normal.

Yeah, people often misunderstand this feature for being a "manual shift" type feature where you can force a gear to be held, as in my Subaru or prior Acura. The M feature just limits the top gear that can be accessed.
Tystevens
Explorer
May 30, 2013
APT wrote:
Ty, I've noticed different behavior when using M2 in tow/haul vs. normal trans modes. Normal, it starts in 2nd gear. In Tow/Haul mode, mine starts in first gear. Of course, yours and mine are probably programmed differently.

The only thing I am aware of lost with Manual mode with tow/haul is the engine braking. I'll take that trade off of never shifting too high or hunting and downshifting myself if necessary.

Honestly, I'm not sure if t/h disables the 2nd gear start feature in my '10 as far as starting in 2nd gear; I haven't screwed around with it that much. I just recall in my '05 dropping it into second when, say, coming off a freeway exit, stopping at the bottom, and then struggling to get going because I had forgot to shift back to 3 or D.

I am just quite impressed with the programming on this transmission when in t/h. It downshifts when needed (with just a tap on the brake pedal), seems to avoid hunting pretty well, and shifts quickly and crisply when towing. I haven't felt the need to get involved too much thus far. As such, my recommendation to the OP would be to try D t/h engaged for a bit and see if he has the same issues.
The_Texan
Explorer
May 30, 2013
Mine is programed like yours APT. The M4 just means the highest gear it will run in is 4, otherwise it will go through the gears from a start like normal.
APT
Explorer
May 30, 2013
Ty, I've noticed different behavior when using M2 in tow/haul vs. normal trans modes. Normal, it starts in 2nd gear. In Tow/Haul mode, mine starts in first gear. Of course, yours and mine are probably programmed differently.

The only thing I am aware of lost with Manual mode with tow/haul is the engine braking. I'll take that trade off of never shifting too high or hunting and downshifting myself if necessary.
fosstugz
Explorer
May 30, 2013
I've been trying to find a happy place for the towing experience. It does almost feel like it's starting off in 2nd. I'll try just leaving it in 4th and see how she does the next time we go out.
Tystevens
Explorer
May 30, 2013
fosstugz wrote:
I am in tow/haul mode and I manually shift and it downshifts into 1st. Temps in town are about 160-170F.

Why do you manually shift it? The benefits of t/h are largely mitigated when you are in manual shift mode. IMO, the programming in t/h is pretty good; I leave mine in D most of the time I am towing.

Also, if you manually shift into 2nd, it will stay there and probably not shift to 1st -- this is the "slippery road start" feature to avoid wheelspin from takeoff. In my last Suburban, I sometimes would manually downshift to 2nd coming to a stop, and accidentally left it in 2 when the light turned green. Trying to start off was less rapid than anticipated, because it will stay in 2nd gear. But the t/h downshifting when braking in my '10 is aggressive enough that I seldom feel the need to override it in manual.
Go_Dogs
Explorer
May 30, 2013
We started out towing a hybrid with a 1/2 ton Suburban. Wasn't too bad. Wanted the Burb because we were hauling kids/dogs. Then we went to a Class C. Then, went to a 25ft TT. The Suburban was very underpowered. I am not any type of mechanic but I felt the Suburban transmission was getting a little, 'slippy' while driving without the TT. This spring, it was time to buy tires for the Burb. Didn't feel comfortable keeping it as TV. 2500 Suburbans are very hard to find in this area, nice ones are too $$ for my pocket. We listened to some good advice here on the forum, and got a used, one-ton van. Not real pretty,(white), but it does the job. The dealer gave us a generous trade on the Suburban. If you ever feel as if you need to find another TV, consider a van. Good luck with your new TT. Look's like a lot of fun!
fosstugz
Explorer
May 30, 2013
I'll have to monitor it the next time I go out.
Buck50HD
Explorer
May 30, 2013
What RPM does it rev up to from a stop? The converter stall speed should be around 2500RPM when you first nail it. I had a 4-spd 5.3 with 3.73's so probably equivalent to your 3.08 and 6-spd first gear. When you have an already low 335 ft-lb torque at 4000RPM and the converter limits it to 2500RPM, it's going to feel like a turd when you take off from a stop, especially when heat soaked. Might just be normal. You said it wakes up around 15mph which is where it starts getting in to the torque peak.

Keep in mind that your 1st gear overall ratio is comparable to the 3.73 "towing" gears of the past 4 spds so I wouldn't sweat it.

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