Hope the title does a bit for making this understandable.The wife and I are making some changes in our way of traveling.We are trying to sell our '02 Bounder (Ford V-10) and buying a diesel pusher.We want to tow a vehicle, and have our golf cart with us.I see some folks with a pick-up truck in tow, and the cart in the bed.Opinions on this?How hard is it to load the cart?What is the consensus as to which truck may be best suited for it (room in the bed).Thanks

Never owned a class A or a golf cart but have worked on a lot of them and a lot of lawn tractors. The usual problem with loading anything like that into a truck bed is have the correct ramps. The traditional 2x10 boards present a sharp edge at the tailgate to hang up on. The correct ramps to use are crowned so it's a smooth transition. Many are made of aluminum and have chains that attach to the truck so the ramps dont get kicked out. I would be sure the attachment method is bullet proof as far as not getting kicked off the tailgate.

rjxj wrote:Never owned a class A or a golf cart but have worked on a lot of them and a lot of lawn tractors. The usual problem with loading anything like that into a truck bed is have the correct ramps. The traditional 2x10 boards present a sharp edge at the tailgate to hang up on. The correct ramps to use are crowned so it's a smooth transition. Many are made of aluminum and have chains that attach to the truck so the ramps dont get kicked out. I would be sure the attachment method is bullet proof as far as not getting kicked off the tailgate.Thanks, that is quite helpful.Where does one buy them?Any idea which trucks have the best read bed space for a cart?John

Depending on the width of the cart the other issue would be going over the wheel wells. My sons quad can easily drive over the wheel wells because its 4 wheel drive. Golf cart will be more difficult and may need blocking built in to help the front tires clear. Carts with big tires are probably able to do it. Depending on the cart and having to do it over and over I would probably fabricate more permanent "shims" or small "platforms" to create a smooth transition over the wheel wells. The front tires would be up above the wheel well height and the rear would be at bed level. Most beds should be 48 inches between wheel wells.One example but check the cart weight

I cant find the ramps we used many years ago but these yellow ones seem to have a nice arch. 6.5

These are the ramps I have used to load STUFF into my bed... They have a safety strap that hooks to the bumper , this strap holds the ramps tight to the bed , and does not allow them to pull away and fall..RAMPS

Towing Golf Cart in Truck | Good Sam Community

lawnspecialties
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
Finished product.

Only reason I had to leave the tailgate halfway down was the rear step was too low to raise the tailgate all the way up. Later on, we had a bigger lift installed on the cart and that allowed us to close the tailgate all the way with the step hanging over it.
Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width
jmcgilvary
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
the bear II wrote:
We found an easier to carry less expensive solution instead of a golf cart.

We bought two good used mobility scooters off of Craigslist. Both break down into 6 components for easy transport. They are easy to put back together.

We added awnings so they look like miniature golf carts. We can ride side by side or she can go where she wants and I can go where I want...

They are great for getting around large events like fairs, RV or car shows.

We could do that when alone, but I have a handicapped Sister-In-Law, so we use the cart for transportation, especially at Disney.
Wife and I have considered the scooter idea for sure!
jmcgilvary
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
Bedlam wrote:
Golf carts that are battery powered are quite heavy. Although most 1/2t long bed trucks should be able fit them, not all will have sufficient payload. The ramps you choose should have a suitable payload capacity to support the golf cart. You should not load the cart on the tailgate due to the weight and may want to look into receiver mounted extensions that will help support your ramps while loading and unloading. A bed or cart mounted winch may be safer for loading and unloading than trying to drive up and down the ramps.

What about dropping the tailgate down, off the cases, and putting the rams directly into the bed, and then using a winch?
Seems like that would work.
jmcgilvary
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
rjxj wrote:
I cant find the ramps we used many years ago but these yellow ones seem to have a nice arch.

Looks GREAT!
I think, although someone mentioned a cart might be too much weight on the tailgate, that using a winch, with no one in the cart, might take that less of a concern.
Thanks

6.5
jmcgilvary
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
rjxj wrote:
I cant find the ramps we used many years ago but these yellow ones seem to have a nice arch.

So the wheels fit inside the fender wells?

6.5
Bedlam
Moderator
Nov 02, 2015
Most of the tailgates came off fairly easily but the ones with the built in man-step are heavy. Usually overloaded tailgates will bow out in the middle (when trying to load heavy touring bikes) or the cable or anchor hardware fails. There are some aftermarket tailgate hangers that are rated for more weight, but I still don't how strong the anchor points are.

I have seen 1250 lb UTV's snap tailgate cables and drive the tailgate into the rear bumper which is why I mentioned it in my previous post. There is a product which I will call a receiver "foot" that allows the ramps to rest on a brace that is in contact with the ground, but I don't remember the name of the company that makes it. If you have fabrication skills, a receiver tube, tongue jack and cross bar is all you need to make one.
jmcgilvary
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
Bedlam wrote:
Most of the tailgates came off fairly easily but the ones with the built in man-step are heavy. Usually overloaded tailgates will bow out in the middle (when trying to load heavy touring bikes) or the cable or anchor hardware fails. There are some aftermarket tailgate hangers that are rated for more weight, but I still don't how strong the anchor points are.

I have seen 1250 lb UTV's snap tailgate cables and drive the tailgate into the rear bumper which is why I mentioned it in my previous post. There is a product which I will call a receiver "foot" that allows the ramps to rest on a brace that is in contact with the ground, but I don't remember the name of the company that makes it. If you have fabrication skills, a receiver tube, tongue jack and cross bar is all you need to make one.

So, the T-bar comes out from the receiver , foot on the round, and supports the ramps?
Bedlam
Moderator
Nov 02, 2015
Exactly. The ramps come up close to the tailgate, but the brunt of the weight is supported by the tongue jack and held firmly in place by the receiver. Since the jack is against the ground, you do not get any ramp movement due to suspension squat.
jmcgilvary
Explorer
Nov 03, 2015
Bedlam wrote:
Exactly. The ramps come up close to the tailgate, but the brunt of the weight is supported by the tongue jack and held firmly in place by the receiver. Since the jack is against the ground, you do not get any ramp movement due to suspension squat.

Very coo.
Have to figure out how to draw it, and maybe have it made.
Thanks
mkirsch
Nomad II
Nov 03, 2015
Don't forget to consider the "heavy lifting" aspect of anything you create, and the need to store it in the bed of the truck with the golf cart.

If you need a golf cart for mobility, it's not likely that you're fit enough to heave an awkward 50lb hunk of metal up into the bed of the truck. Plus the golf cart doesn't leave much room for anything else.

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