It seems the more I research this topic, the more confused I get.here's the rundown:2004 Chevy Avalanche 1500 4WDCurb weight 5700 lbsGVWR 7,000looking to get a LivinLite Bearcat 16fk which dry is 3100 lbs with tongue weight of 640 (dry), that seems quite heavy.The payload on the Avalanche is only 1300 lbs, so with me, the wife and 2 large dogs, we're at 550lbs added there.Add int he tongue weight of the Bearcat unloaded and I'm basically at the max payload of the Av.We won't be loading any "toys", I just like the TH layouts for dogs.Livinlite doesn't recommend WD setups as you have to drill into the frame. Ok, so Andersen hitch has WD w/o drilling.From my reading, all this does is transfer off the rear axle and distribute it to rear/front, not really helping my payload issue.or am I missing something here?Does the WD hitch put some of the TW back on the trailer?Also, if I fill the freshwater tank which is located near the front of the trailer, not sure how far up, how much would that add to TW?can anyone help me here?

JFit23 wrote:From my reading, all this does is transfer off the rear axle and distribute it to rear/front, not really helping my payload issue.Correct. A Weight Distributing Hitch (abbreviated as WD Hitch) only helps transfer weight to the front axle.I've use a variety of WD hitches and never drilled in to the trailer frame.

Have you researched whether you can add more payload capacity to your vehicle? That would be my first thought.

Your TH has a GVWR of 7000#. Load capacity is 3900# Dry weight of 3100#Tongue weight is 640# w/no toys, once your load is adjusted further back of the axles, the tongue weight will become less as stated in the specs.Maintain a minimum of 10% of total trailer weight "loaded" should be your goal for tongue weight.

Should be a good match. Get a WDH with integrated sway control like Equal-z-er 4-pt, Reese Strait Line. A WDH when adjusted such that 100% front axle weight is restored does put about 20% on TW back onto the trailer axles. You may want to consider replacing the receiver on your truck. It is was failure prone well under the ratings when new, let alone 10 years old.

So what is the vehicle rated to tow????? The numbers you have dont tell you the tow ratings. Ask the dealer if you have to.

Towing with Chevy Avalanche will it be safe? | Good Sam Community

18 Replies

JFit23
Explorer
Jan 08, 2015
I don't know much about suspension, but quick research shows adding coil-over shock absorbers could increase payload quite a bit. Is this correct?

edit- seems there may not be any on the market for this year Av, will have to check further

per http://www.ehow.com/how_5099020_increase-payload-capacity-truck.html

I'd still be within GCWR of course.

thanks everyone for helping out.
JFit23
Explorer
Jan 08, 2015
wandering1 wrote:
So what is the vehicle rated to tow????? The numbers you have dont tell you the tow ratings. Ask the dealer if you have to.

Max tow is 7,000.

Dry is 3100, and no plans on toys. Just luggage and dog stuff. Along with fresh water tank full, obviously.
JFit23
Explorer
Jan 08, 2015
APT wrote:
Should be a good match. Get a WDH with integrated sway control like Equal-z-er 4-pt, Reese Strait Line. A WDH when adjusted such that 100% front axle weight is restored does put about 20% on TW back onto the trailer axles. You may want to consider replacing the receiver on your truck. It is was failure prone well under the ratings when new, let alone 10 years old.

Thanks. I bought it from PA, so it's quite rusted anyway.
JFit23
Explorer
Jan 08, 2015
Dakota98 wrote:
Your TH has a GVWR of 7000#. Load capacity is 3900# Dry weight of 3100#

Tongue weight is 640# w/no toys, once your load is adjusted further back of the axles, the tongue weight will become less as stated in the specs.

Maintain a minimum of 10% of total trailer weight "loaded" should be your goal for tongue weight.

Thanks, no real plans to be loading much in the trailer to be honest.

I realize luggage and stuff like that can add weight, but with fresh water tank full, I'm thinking that will actually add to TW.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Jan 07, 2015
turbojimmy wrote:
Thanks! So a lever (tongue weight on the bumper) is still a lever despite the air shocks. I get it.

I think I'll pull the air pump fuse when I use the WDH from now on.

You understand perfectly, and I couldn't have said it any simpler or better myself.

On the air pump, don't be so hasty. Simply hitch up and apply the WDH with the truck OFF, then let the air pump do its thing. If you set the WDH up right, it won't do much if anything.
phillyg
Explorer II
Jan 07, 2015
I'm not sure about your total tow weight but I suspect your receiver is only rated for 5000lbs/500lbs tongue weight, so you'll likely need to upgrade the receiver in addition to adding a WD system.
kevden
Explorer
Jan 06, 2015
We used to tow a 21' tt that was somewhere near 4500lbs dry with a 2005 avalanche 1500. Had bike rack with 2 adult mtn bikes on the bed cover, bed loaded with gear, 17' canoe on roof, kids, dogs, etc. It was a great vehicle and towed our camper very well. We would probably still have it, but our family outgrew both truck and camper.

Edit- The Equalizer hitch on our current tt is not drilled into the trailer a-frame, it clamps in place. Also, our Avalanche did not have factory air suspension. Over certain bumps the truck would "porpoise" bounce front to back. I put a pair of Air-lift brand suspension airbags in the rear coils, and the truck was very stable after that. I put Timbrens bump stops on the rear suspension of our current tv and they also work great.
rbtglove
Explorer
Jan 06, 2015
Do not think Air shocks were not standard on that year AV. If yours came with the tow package it may still need a trans cooler, I know my 05 with the tow package did not and even though the earlier ones did, I do not think 04 did. You'll need a break control, Prodigy makes one that plugs right in under the dash. I used an equil-izer hitch and towned a 4500 Lb scale wt, TT all over the US. I think you can tow that TT with a WD hitch with no hole drilling. The AV online site has a towing forum for more info.
BurbMan
Explorer II
Jan 06, 2015
Air shocks aren't really designed to level that kind of load...most SUVs with self level rear suspensions tell you to hook up the WD hitch with the ignition off. Then once the hitch is in place start the truck, so the air shocks are only making a small adjustment and not carrying the whole load.
turbojimmy
Explorer
Jan 06, 2015
APT wrote:
Any downward force behind the vehicles rear axle increases weight on the rear axle and decreases weight on the front axle. Rear suspension aids such ar air bags, overload springs, and Timbrens do not change that. A WDH is designed to restore a percentage of weight lost on the front axle and decrease the weight on the rear axle. For example:

1000 pound trailer TW just dropped on a ball mount might:
Add 1400 pounds to the rear axle weight
Remove 400 pounds from the front axle weight

Increasing truck rear spring rate does not change the above, but will affect truck stance/rake.

Using and adjusting a WDH such that 100% of front axle weight is restored would end up:
Add 800 pounds to truck rear axle
Front axle same as no trailer
Add 200 pounds to trailer axles

You decide which is preferred.

Thanks! So a lever (tongue weight on the bumper) is still a lever despite the air shocks. I get it.

I think I'll pull the air pump fuse when I use the WDH from now on.