Unhitching safely on deep grass - slight slope

I Scott. I would get 4 rubber chock blocks and use wood cribbing instead of Lynx under the tongue. I got my chock blocks at Harbor Freight. Maybe the guys have different ideas than mine also.

Larger solid WEDGE chocks set behind tires...reverse trailer a bit to set rear chocks...brake to hold trailer and then set front chocks tight

Then use a set of X-Chocks between trailer tires


Now you can unhitch trailer from vehicle

You probably need more / larger chocks. Though X type chicks are not designed to hold a trailer in place, they do help the other chocks hold the rig in place. Sometimes it is best to put down four chocks on the downhill side. Even put chocks tight against the wheels resting on the leveling blocks.

Another thing I do is after we have the rig level side to side but before putting the tongue on blocks - I start the truck engine, put the truck in neutral, release the parking brake and let out on the main brake. The truck and trailer tend to move a couple inches and go tight up against the chocks on one side.

After the movement is completely stopped I will set the parking brake, put the truck in Park and shut down the engine.

Only then will I put weight on the tongue and raise the tongue off the ball. I never unhook the chains until after I am sure the trailer is not going to move.

I also make sure the wife or anyone else is not behind the trailer or next to the tongue to get run over or hit by debris if the chains break.

When I was 15 my dad had me drive the truck and boat trailer from the launch ramp back to the campsite. In a hurry I just unhitched the trailer expecting to move it manually to a storage position. I didn’t check. Lucky for me the little cove only had about 15 feet of water. It took several dives to find it and get a strong enough line on it to winch it out of the water. The only one/ thing hurt that day was my pride. A lesson I’ve never forgotten.

As PawPaw said above, "start the truck engine, put the truck in neutral, release the parking brake and let out on the main brake. The truck and trailer tend to move a couple inches and go tight up against the chocks..."
If you are on a hill so steep the TT rolls over real checks then I would not unkook.

If there is any way possible that the rig could go down hill I put a chain and lock through a wheel on each side. Blocking it and chocks are all fine when setting it up but chains are the guarantee that it won't get away from you. Chains go on before it's unhitched.

forget the blocks behind the wheels and go for the X-blocks between the wheels. That method also reduces the trailer movement when one walks around inside. Note I stated `reduces' not eliminates.

A bit of shovel work could make a couple flat areas for the tires, or pack plywood. That distributes the weight better. I'd recommend roto-chocks but I think they're Oob.

X-chocks alone is a bad idea because the TT can still move and the chocks will just roll right out. Have seen it happen on sloping ground before. Okay to add after you've done all the other "right stuff" first.

Never been on ground quite that bad but I would think some single length 2x6 or 2x8 planks under the tires on each and long enough to run past on front and rear of tires for the blocks would be a good idea. Will spread out the load per square inch. Then larger heavy duty blocks on each wheel on the planks.

I'd watch what you use to put under the tongue jack. I had the short 8x8" blocks under our tongue jack sink into soft ground once and the TT slipped sideways and off the blocks under the jack. Not exactly an easy job to get the jack pad back onto some blocks. Good thing I had the chains attached. I'd suggest using a much wider base under the tongue jack in both directions like say 2' x2' (or even larger) at the base and in a pyramid shape.

I would think some stabilizer struts added to the stabilizer jacks in a fore/aft and side-side direction would also help. And larger pads under the stab jacks too.

X2 on expanding chocks popping out. I didn't have X chock but a similar style and they spit out very easily. They helped stabilize and minimize movement of the TT but I would never trust them if there possibility of going down a hill existed.

There is only one answer if the possibility of it rolling on it's own exists and that is chaining through the wheels etc. No matter what style of chock or block, if it could be bumped and then move on its own, it needs to be chained. Other than that always keep a video cam handy so we have continuous YouTube material.

Dick_B wrote:
forget the blocks behind the wheels and go for the X-blocks between the wheels. That method also reduces the trailer movement when one walks around inside. Note I stated `reduces' not eliminates.

X chocks are not designed to hold the trailer in place, and the manufacturer explicitly advises against using them for that purpose.

Always use wheel chocks.