Water heater, electric heater not working

ktmrfs wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

ktmrfs wrote:
first, if you have a switch for the AC element inside the trailer check and make sure the switch outside in the wh is also set to ON. most of the time they are set off and you need to change it. then the inside switch will turn on the element. the inside switch is a 12V signal to a relay inside the wh control board.

Not quite......

Suburban electric is a DIRECT fed from a AC Circuit Breaker to On/OFF switch to the set of t-stats then to element

(Atwood uses the 12V DC relay for AC element)

Yes..
If you have an ON/OFF switch inside RV then the OEM outside switch has to be ON also (lower left corner)

Also check that the High T-stat has not tripped.....Rubber cover in outside compartment 'Push To Reset' (if tripped you will feel resistance as you reset------Left side for AC/Right side for LP)


If switches are ON and Hi T-stat didn't trip/is reset then you should have 120V AC at element (Voltage between Black wire terminal & White wire terminal)

No voltage......turn switch OFF and measure continuity between the two terminals (Should have continuity)
And 'No Continuity' between Black wire terminal and element flange

IF tests good then remove cover over t-stats and see if 'connecting wire' between Hi and Normal t-stat has burnt in to

IF turned on without water......element burnt out

well on my suburban the inside the trailer switch is a 12V switch with 12V going to the WH to turn on the 120v to the WH. Likewise on several others I know with suburbans. true, the 120V feeds directly to the switch in the WH.

That is a 'modification' by RV MFG
The RV MFG. has done that due to all in one monitoring panel plus controls for pump and WH.

Suburban OEM is 120V AC direct
Suburban doesn't use a 12V DC relay for electric.

That could be an issue for troubleshooting cause ALL Suburban 120V AC schematics will NOT show that 12V DC circuit and relay

And Keystone doesn't have schematics