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Woodsab24's avatar
Woodsab24
Explorer
May 29, 2014

Water tank full but no water coming out

We are newbies with a 2013 Thor Four Winds 31F. Only camped twice and had water hookup both times. Now, we need to use the water in our tank (which is full) but no water comes out of our faucets, when the pump is on or off. Is there a switch or valve we are supposed to use when switching from city water to tank water? Where is it? Sorry if this is a dumb question. Appreciate any help you can provide.

6 Replies

  • wa8yxm wrote:
    Well I see the issue is solved.. (Closed shut off valve)

    One comment, the person who said there is not a valve, is usually wrong.

    On the pump inlet should be an "inlet strainer" and since you may need to open this when the water tank is full,, there should ALWAYS be a valve in the line.

    Or if the pump fails,, You do not want gravity feeding water all over the floor while you replace the pump, thus there is ALWAYS a valve.

    Exception for trailers with hand pumps.


    I forgot about the little inline valve before the pump. I know on my recent RVs, you never had to actuate a valve to switch between city water and using the pump. But you are correct.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Well I see the issue is solved.. (Closed shut off valve)

    One comment, the person who said there is not a valve, is usually wrong.

    On the pump inlet should be an "inlet strainer" and since you may need to open this when the water tank is full,, there should ALWAYS be a valve in the line.

    Or if the pump fails,, You do not want gravity feeding water all over the floor while you replace the pump, thus there is ALWAYS a valve.

    Exception for trailers with hand pumps.
  • A number of possibilities. Defective pump, blown fuse, defective switch, defective relay, valve in incorrect position, and maybe the inlet filter to the pump is filled with junk.

    Start with the fuse (DC distribution panel) - that's easy to check. You can test for defective pump by powering it directly using 12 volts. Inlet filter is also easy to check. Look at the position of the valves (including the one between the water pump and the FW tank). Then test the switches. If your pump works and everything else is OK then it's possible that the monoplex relay is defective - that's the relay which allows the kitchen, bathroom, and outside shower switches to independently operate the water pump - it's not very expensive but the location of the relay varies so finding it can be a PIA.
  • We just figured it out! There was a valve that needed to be opened which we found under the bed. Go figure! I just wish our dealer had told us about that when we picked it up! Thanks for your response!
  • Do you hear the pump run? If no it is an electrical problem - blown fuse maybe.
    if yes could be a couple of things. Some units have a valve near the pump to switch between the tank and a pickup tube for winterizing. Check for the correct position. Or the pump may not be priming - open a faucet to get air out of the lines until the pump primes. Could be other things but these should be a starting point.
  • Typically, there is no valve.

    1. Turn your water pump switch on.
    2. Do you hear the pump running?
    3. Open the cold water valve on the kitchen sink.
    4. Do you hear the pump running now?

    My initial suspicion is your pump is not activating, and you might have a fuse that needs replacing. You could also have air in the water lines that you need to bleed off before pressure will build up and water will flow.

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