What brake controller

Get the prodigy RF, that way you can move it to your next vehicle, a rental, or easily sell it if your next TV has an integrated brake controller. It's basically a P3 that uses an RF link instead of a cable, the increased cost of the unit is offset by not needing professional installation and is easily moved from vehicle to vehicle.

BarneyS wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Snip... If my MaxBrake would have not worked on my 15 RAM I would have bought the P3. I have owned several Tekonsha controllers over the years but the P2 for ME was not a set n forget controller! Snip...

Are you still using the MaxBrake in your Ram now? My brake controller in my new Ram works perfectly and I kind of wonder why you would not use yours. Does the MaxBrake outperform the stock contoller?

It is a shame that MaxBrake and BrakeSmart are no longer made. They were the best of the bunch in my opinion. By the way, the P3 functions exactly like the P2 and earlier models. It just has more bells and whistles. If you didn't like the P2 then I don't think you would have been satisfied with a P3.
Barney

From what I understand the 15's that tow heavy tend to have issues with their builtin controllers. I was told there was a fix in the works but I was not going to tow any longer with the factory controller as it was a real life safety issue. So I dug out my MaxBrake I had on my 11 RAM Dually. I was able to get the proper brass Tee and hooked it up and it WORKS GREAT!!!

NOTHING on the market works so well. Seamless braking.

Yes a real shame they are no longer in business.

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Snip... If my MaxBrake would have not worked on my 15 RAM I would have bought the P3. I have owned several Tekonsha controllers over the years but the P2 for ME was not a set n forget controller! Snip...

Are you still using the MaxBrake in your Ram now? My brake controller in my new Ram works perfectly and I kind of wonder why you would not use yours. Does the MaxBrake outperform the stock contoller?

It is a shame that MaxBrake and BrakeSmart are no longer made. They were the best of the bunch in my opinion. By the way, the P3 functions exactly like the P2 and earlier models. It just has more bells and whistles. If you didn't like the P2 then I don't think you would have been satisfied with a P3.
Barney

BarneyS wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:


Yes and it was adjusted properly. You had to change the setting while going thru a Campground or it would put you thru the front windshield. Scary part if U did not return to the heavier setting you basically had NO brakes on the highway.

That certainly was not my experience with it.
Me thinks you exaggerate a bit, or something was not right with either the controller or your trailer brakes.
Barney

Barney that is exactly how mine worked. I have ZERO reason to exaggerate. My Dad bought it new and that is how it worked for him. All the settings were correct. I have read of others having the same experience but others that have not. If my MaxBrake would have not worked on my 15 RAM I would have bought the P3. I have owned several Tekonsha controllers over the years but the P2 for ME was not a set n forget controller!

I have a Prodigy P3 in my beater truck. Everyone speaks highly of it.

Like others have said, Time delay controller should be outlawed. THey are HORRIBLE.

Terryallan wrote:

BarneyS wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:


Yes and it was adjusted properly. You had to change the setting while going thru a Campground or it would put you thru the front windshield. Scary part if U did not return to the heavier setting you basically had NO brakes on the highway.

That certainly was not my experience with it.
Me thinks you exaggerate a bit, or something was not right with either the controller or your trailer brakes.
Barney

Sounds more like a Voyager. My Prodigy was smooth as glass. In town, in the CG, or on the highway. Set, and forget.

BTW. the factory controller in my F150 is the same way. Set, and forget.

The Voyagers are really junky. I had a couple of them and when the second one got weak, I took it apart (retired EE) for an inspection..
The part is uses to regulate current to the brakes is rated at 1.5 amps. They heat sink it somewhat so that it can put out enough to power the four brakes for a while but the undersized components explain why they get weaker with age and use.

BarneyS wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:


Yes and it was adjusted properly. You had to change the setting while going thru a Campground or it would put you thru the front windshield. Scary part if U did not return to the heavier setting you basically had NO brakes on the highway.

That certainly was not my experience with it.
Me thinks you exaggerate a bit, or something was not right with either the controller or your trailer brakes.
Barney

That has never been my experience either nor that of my friends.
Or anybody on these forums that I've ever heard from.

BarneyS wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:


Yes and it was adjusted properly. You had to change the setting while going thru a Campground or it would put you thru the front windshield. Scary part if U did not return to the heavier setting you basically had NO brakes on the highway.

That certainly was not my experience with it.
Me thinks you exaggerate a bit, or something was not right with either the controller or your trailer brakes.
Barney

Sounds more like a Voyager. My Prodigy was smooth as glass. In town, in the CG, or on the highway. Set, and forget.

BTW. the factory controller in my F150 is the same way. Set, and forget.

A bit more than the typical Ford vs Chevy vs Ram (they are all good and have their own 'personalities' that either fits you or not)...but there are major differences between OEM vs after market brake controllers

First, how much money do you have invested in both your TV and trailer?...plus other valuation positions of life and limb. Personally will NOT skimp on this area...BRAKING

Since you do not have an OEM embedded brake controller, after market is the topic.

Add that, IMHO, most who complain about a P2/P3 did NOT have theirs dialed in well

My P3 leads the TV in braking. Meaning it tells the trailer brakes to start braking BEFORE my TV master cylinder ever develops any braking force. The trailer actually starts to slow down the whole setup before the TV's brakes engage.

Since both P2 and P3 are inertia based...once the above braking session starts...the accelerometer in them senses deceleration and will continue to tell the trailer brakes to engage.

Proportional in that it will vary the voltage to the trailer brakes in proportion to the accelerometer's sense of deceleration

Meanwhile, the TV's brake system gets into the game via my continual pressing of the brake pedal to develop MC pressure...which further decelerates...which the P2/P3 will sense even more deceleration to then increase the voltage to the trailer brakes

I can stop the whole setup WITHOUT ever engaging the TV's brakes just by keeping a light touch on the brake pedal without moving the MC rod to develop braking pressure

Key is setting up the TV brake pedal switch to snap over and turn on the TV brake lights BEFORE developing MC PSI. If plunger type (think door bell), it will be tough. Some of the newer TV's have a much better brake light switch

Good luck !

rightlaneonly wrote:
Thanks everyone for the info.
So I will get a Tekonsha proportional, what about this one, anyone using it? Primus IQ Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 3 Axles - Proportional. Its a little less money than the P2 or P3.
Your opinions are valued.

Thanks everyone for the info.
So I will get a Tekonsha proportional, what about this one, anyone using it? Primus IQ Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 3 Axles - Proportional. Its a little less money than the P2 or P3.
Your opinions are valued.