Whats with step height, I'm old, man

Sometimes a lucky nickel will help the situation. I would go with a replacement step outside and rebuilding the stairs inside.

There's only one handle next to the door on my 'C'. But the back of the dinette is just inside the door on the opposite side. I just bought a cheap handle and attached it with screws to the back of the dinette. Works for me.

rockhillmanor wrote:


And don't forget to add that the Class C's and Class A's offer toy haulers too.

First sentence of his post,

the OP said he was looking for a Fifth Wheel at the RV show..;)

.

Dtank wrote:

doxiemom11 wrote:
Our co-hosts this summer purchased a new travel trailer and it isn't any better. The outside top step was 10" into the trailer and they could barely manage it. Since they were parked for the summer, we built wooden steps of normal size for them to use and by end of summer, they were having problems with those. Bad knees and hips.

Saw some folks at a campground with an aluminum ramp at the door of their Airstream TT.
Thought it was for the campers - but it was actually for their old German Sheppard (hip dysplasia?).
I guess they used it also, as I never saw it removed.
Appeared to be about 6' long.
The AS TT was pretty low to the ground, so the angle (incline) of the ramp was pretty gradual.

********************************************************************

Hmmmmmmmm.......:@..:@..:h
With a bit of ingenuity a *Toy Hauler* rear ramp could have a "man door" added (or *in place of* the big door) - with a ramp to walk up or use a wheel chair.
Slide the ramp inside for travel.

The ramp could be as long as the owner desired - plus the TH would still have the normal entry/exit door (with steps).

BTW - lots of folks use the toy hauler space for things other than the various "toys" it was originally intended for.
Everything from bunk rooms, sewing, office, workout space, etc.

And, of course - Toy Haulers avail in both TT & 5th wheel designs.:C

And don't forget to add that the Class C's and Class A's offer toy haulers too.

doxiemom11 wrote:
Our co-hosts this summer purchased a new travel trailer and it isn't any better. The outside top step was 10" into the trailer and they could barely manage it. Since they were parked for the summer, we built wooden steps of normal size for them to use and by end of summer, they were having problems with those. Bad knees and hips.

Saw some folks at a campground with an aluminum ramp at the door of their Airstream TT.
Thought it was for the campers - but it was actually for their old German Sheppard (hip dysplasia?).
I guess they used it also, as I never saw it removed.
Appeared to be about 6' long.
The AS TT was pretty low to the ground, so the angle (incline) of the ramp was pretty gradual.

********************************************************************

Hmmmmmmmm.......:@..:@..:h
With a bit of ingenuity a *Toy Hauler* rear ramp could have a "man door" added (or *in place of* the big door) - with a ramp to walk up or use a wheel chair.
Slide the ramp inside for travel.

The ramp could be as long as the owner desired - plus the TH would still have the normal entry/exit door (with steps).

BTW - lots of folks use the toy hauler space for things other than the various "toys" it was originally intended for.
Everything from bunk rooms, sewing, office, workout space, etc.

And, of course - Toy Haulers avail in both TT & 5th wheel designs.

:C

Water-Bug wrote:
If you can't manage the steps on your 5er, how do you get in and out of the 1 ton TV that pulls it? Those trucks don't have a 7" rise either. Even with running boards/rails, my first step-up is over 18". Guess the 5er manufacturers figure that if you can get in and out of the TV, you can manage the 5er steps.

That's one the reasons I do not buy a 4x4. Saw a Ford F-250 4x4 yesterday at the RV/Boat show and even with it's factory step it was to high for us.

If you have a bit of spare cash do what a friend of mine did: had a little (about 3' x 3') porch welded up for his front door. All hinged, sits tight against side for travel. Easy to let down once you get the technique of "unraveling" the different parts as it comes down.

If you can't manage the steps on your 5er, how do you get in and out of the 1 ton TV that pulls it? Those trucks don't have a 7" rise either. Even with running boards/rails, my first step-up is over 18". Guess the 5er manufacturers figure that if you can get in and out of the TV, you can manage the 5er steps.

Steps were the reason I did not go FW also. Had TT first and now MH.

But the steps on "all" RV's are not deep enough to put your foot down straight like in a sticks and bricks.

This IS what was causing my knee problems. I've posted it before but I bought a standard plastic 2 step stool and place that at the door with one cinder block that matches right up to the height of the last step on a standard step stool. What a difference!! I can plant my foot straight down the steps no twisting and turning.

I found it was the slight twisting of the leg to fit on an RV step is what was wrong with my knees. NOT that my knees where getting old and needed surgery.

If I stay longer than a few days I go to Lowes and get a couple of cinder blocks for steps. Interestingly they are just the right height.

I am completely knee pain free since doing this AND off all pain medication. Going full time RV'ing with short steps was the cause of the pain.

Cost me maybe 6 bucks for the cinder blocks small price to pay to be pain free. I leave them at the CG with the owners permission when I leave.




This set up was for a 2 month stay at a CG. I added the white tape to accent the edges at night because it was a dark CG site. 4 cinder blocks and a couple of patio blocks for the step down.
Cost me a whole 10 dollars to be pain free! :C

On another forum I saw a post where several people have purchased these:
http://rv-co.com/index.html

Don