Winterizing Q

wildtoad wrote:
If the lines are clear, no water in the heater, and you don’t plan on using the RV the position of the valves don’t matter. I assume you have open any low point drain valves, put RV antifreeze in the sink/shower p-traps.

Though Dtoad is 100% correct I put 'em in bypass.. Just to be safe.
I also don't replace the plug and on an atwood I pull a wire off the ECO module been glad I did that once. (It's in the instructions, the wire is RED ECO is Emergency Cut Out, sets the FAULT light if you try to use the water heater that way)

In theory, either can be made to work.

In practice, it's easier with the heater bypassed, as you don't have to reinstall the plug (so it's airtight and water can be forced out the hot lines), and then remove it again afterwards (so any water from the cold lines forced into the water heater is removed). It also avoids having a large air reservoir--the heater tank--from generally interfering with and slowing down the process.

Once the winterizing is done, it matters not one whit which way the valves are set.

If the lines are clear, no water in the heater, and you don’t plan on using the RV the position of the valves don’t matter. I assume you have open any low point drain valves, put RV antifreeze in the sink/shower p-traps.