101 degree heat & 30 amp air-conditioning

Sometimes, when my ac is not cooling enough, I will crank up my engine and turn the dash ac on full for about 20 minutes, so that it helps the house cool down.

MrWizard wrote:
To quote a phrase often used on this forum
Looks like comparing apples and oranges and other fruit

Montana 5vr, Safari DP , Fleetwood TC

Not to mention that 95 degrees in Phoenix with 8% humidity is not the same as 95 degrees in Atlanta with 75% humidity.

It takes energy to condense water out of the air, and you will lose some of that heat removal (aka cold).

To quote a phrase often used on this forum
Looks like comparing apples and oranges and other fruit

Montana 5vr, Safari DP , Fleetwood TC

Well I have a 50 amp 38 foot RV with 2 A/C's, currently on a 30 amp site and it is AUGUST but I'm comfortable.. Kind of strange.. But it's not 110 out only 79

SHADE HELPS. even if it's 50 out in this ride you need A/C if in full sun.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_1JQYSZbmY

Mr Kayteg1 is spot dead on with his remark. Dale Erb the painter filled voids in Quicksilver with refrigerant grade closed cell marine foam. My bedroom interior wall is also one inch thick filled with foam. With door closed on a no shade 40c day a single 5000 BTU Gold Star A/C will offer a thirty degree Delta T. The windows have NASA gold foil tinting plusthermal curtains. Before the spaces were shot, reflective 1-mil mylar film was applied to both sides. The film looks like mirror. Because surfaces are textured and contoured, I had to custom strip the Mylar to conform. My groans of protest were foolish. The process performs like a charm.

That is what I said- human senses are lousy and that include reading comprehension.
What Keystone said is "2” Laminated, gel coated Filon™ exterior walls (R-9)"
Nowhere it says the frame is 2", so read my theory above again.
Styrofoam has R=5/inch, so would you have 2" frame you'd have R10 from the insulation + about R2 from sheeting and siding for total of R12.
Yet Keystone says it is R9
Can you smell rat?

Kayteg1 wrote:

Mel B. wrote:


I never measured the wall but I'm sure it was close to 1 1/2' thick..

Per my experience human senses are very lousy instruments and we are prone to big errors, unless we grab real tool.
So could it be that what you have seen was 3/4" frame + 1/4" sheeting on one side, 1/2" siding on the other?
That makes 1 1/2

Sorry but in my experience if I would have seen a 3/4" wall I would not have kept the RV for six happy years. Did you even look at the link that said my wall were 2" thick? or did you read Mr. Wizards post about his walls? I'm sorry your walls are 3/4 of an inch, but I think that is far from normal. But that's just my human senses kicking in.

Mel B. wrote:


I never measured the wall but I'm sure it was close to 1 1/2' thick..

Per my experience human senses are very lousy instruments and we are prone to big errors, unless we grab real tool.
So could it be that what you have seen was 3/4" frame + 1/4" sheeting on one side, 1/2" siding on the other?
That makes 1 1/2

Kayteg1 wrote:
Caribou was top of the line in Fleetwood production. Year 2001. It is considered aluminium frame - do you see aluminium on this wall?
I hope lot has changed, but I am too realistic to believe it.
My vintage 40' Prevost required smaller heater than small Truck Camper in nominal 11' size.
Prevost had solid polyurethane sprayed inside the walls, typical RV has Styrofoam or fiberglass stick here and there.
We use Lance now, where some compartments have 1/8" of insulating foil.

Okay but I had a 1998 28' fleetwood 5th wheel, I had to tear into a wall that had water damage. I never measured the wall but I'm sure it was close to 1 1/2' thick. And as the link I posted above my 2004 Montana walls are 2" thick and it even lists the R factor, that's a huge difference when it's cooling down. I don't think my wife would accept 3/4" walls. She loves the cool trailer when it's in the triple didgets.