This is meant to be fun and not a challenge :) And the issue is not theoretical...Here we have a mean mean Meanwell RSP charger that has a max potential of 130 amperes.And the user cannot or does not want potentiometer voltage settings.Click - Click - Click - Click. A single deck 11 contact Electro SwitchA battery charger NOT a converter. For use with a generatorAt latitudes higher than 45 degreesAnd a six hour wind-up timerFor flooded and AGM batteries11 settings to program. There are no "right" or "wrong" answersConsider it a compliment to commenters that I am posting this for your comments. Smart people learn and my reception is wide open. The resistor circuit is not finished.This deals with voltage not resistors. And remember there is an infinitely adjustable wind up timer involved.What say you?As a guideline I cannot imagine this charger being used at temps lower than 0F or higher than 85FDon't be afraid this is not some kind of "test"

David,Here's my comments from another thread of yours - that may be relevant here too:"As usual, the one thing missing is that the termination of the charger's voltage control loop is not right at the terminals of the battery(ies) being charged.What I want is a battery charging setup in which whenever I dial in 14.4volts (or whatever volts) using knobs/buttons on the charger ... that's exactly what winds up on the battery(ies) terminals regardless of the size of the wire running between the charger and the battery(ies). Of course this requres a charger also with knobs/buttons to set maximum current so as to not burn up the wiring and not to exceed the current capability of the charger.The reason for the above is that I'm pretty sure that when battery manufacturers specify charging voltages, the voltage they're referring to is voltage being maintained on the battery terminals - not voltage at the charger. It takes a separate wire feeding back from right on the battery terminals to the control circuits in the charger to do this."

The meanwell rsp series has user optional voltage sense lines for both + and - and can adjust upto 0.5v iirc.I did not bother hooking mine up, though it would reduce the pot twiddling required when i want max amps for as long as possible and crank it higher than 15v to get them.I'd say battery tempeature compensation is just as if not more important than accounting for voltage drop, especially at high recharge ates where the battery can heat rapidly.

First, checking the spec on Meanwell RSP procucts, you ar going to need a RSP-1500-15 to get close to 130A output ! I am pretty certain this is the largest power supply they make that still runs on 120V. It has a max power input of 17A so will a typical 120V 15A breaker hold ?Now some good news ! The supply DOES have remote voltage sensing ! I strongly suggest that it is used. This particular power supply has remote voltage programming via a resistor across 2 of the control pins. The is a chart on page 4 of the spec sheet that shows the resistance require to go from 70% of the rated voltage (10.5V) to 100% (15V).Can't get much easier than that.

Jeez I'm looking for YOUR ideas and perspective -- I know mine! :)Yes I am using the Hirose optional plugs and 26 gauge wire.But again YOUR commemts. I don't need numbers just opinions and wishful ideas.

The Charge Wizard for a PD converter lets you pick any one of three voltage settings. This is instead of a manual adjustable pot knob, such as found on some PowerMax converters.So in this case the requirement is for 11 instead of 3 settings by click instead of twirl a knob.With a knob pot, you have to set the voltage with the charger not yet connected to the battery. Say you set 14.8. As soon as you connect to the battery that needs recharging, the voltage seen at either end of the connecting wires will be less than 14.8, and the voltage at the charger will be a little higher due to voltage drop. No problem--it will all come out right in the end. So when you leave the battery connected, but want to set the charger at 14.8, you can't. So the trick is to mark 14.8 by the knob pointer when it is not connected. So when connected and the voltage is 14.2 or whatever, just dial it to your 14.8 mark and it will come out right for the recharge. I have 14.8 and 13.6 marked by my PowerMax adjustable's knob for that reason.Mex wants to have 11 clickable settings for that job instead of using a marker pen on the charger around its pot knob. Seems like a lot of work, but whatever. -------BTW, Some folks want a voltage sensing wire to get the battery voltage showing at the charger.But that voltage drop gets smaller as current tapers, so by the time the battery is nearly full, there is hardly any voltage drop. So who cares about this magic sensing wire? It doesn't help you with anything I can figure out.

11 Fixed Voltage Settings For a 130 Ampere Charger

49 Replies

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Apr 18, 2018
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Genuine SJO power cable 14/3

For a few $$$ more, go with 12/3.
BFL13
Explorer II
Apr 18, 2018
If it is MILSPEC, it should be able to withstand 16" gunfire under 10 feet of water! (Sounds like it could :) )
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Apr 18, 2018
Not Finished...

K-Monel 1/8" security cable which would destroy a cutter
K Monel hasp for lock amd stainless fish plate used inside for reinforcement. American lock ultra security padlock
The AC and the DC fans only engage when Meanwell is powered up
Three sides of the box have Green LED power-is-available pilot lights.

This is not a low budget project. Military grade all the way. Over 30 20mm MOVs and 14 TVS diodes including MR2535 Motorola avalanche diodes are incorporated.

All and I mean ALL interior components are wired with tinned SILICONE sheathed wire and it's all soldered.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Apr 18, 2018
:5 digit LED panel and 2" color graph gauges. Digital ammeter
200 ampere relay for reversed polarity protection
10 second timer on output relay to allow capacitor inrush to proceed with battery loading
The delay allows for confirmation of voltage setting before engagement
Load is dispersed through 2 gauge Arctic battery cable and 800-amp battery clamps with shunts
Polarity protection includes piezo siren. Intermatic 6-hour timer
Genuine SJO power cable 14/3
Hospital grade Lexan 15 amp transparent plug
Mil-Spec 11 contact gold single deck switch
Pabst 120 mm double ball bearing 280 CFM 120vac fan for charger case
Extreme TVS and MOV suppression throughout circuitry AC/DC
Mr Wizard's inductive ammeter used :)
One watt metal wound mil-spec resistors are scheduled to be used in the voltage network
Since this is a charger with vast overkill inherent in the power cables I am not going to use remote sensing
Read the part again, where there will be a 10-second delay between startup and amperage engagement
Twin pilot LEDs announce powering the supply and engagement of the relay
Blue Seas 15-ampere AC breaker and Littlefuse 150 ampere self-reset DC breaker used on power leads
Unit is housed in a wheeled extension handled RIGID polyurethane tool box. Gauges are shielded with 1/4" LEXAN polycarbonate covered with 8 mil 3M adhesive
Lexan is removeable because it is secured with 30mm neodymium magnets and 18/8 stainless plates
Everything is soldered then buried in 3M corrosion liquid
Did I mention the 2nd Pabst 12 volt fan used for interior circulation.
BFL13
Explorer II
Apr 18, 2018
The Charge Wizard for a PD converter lets you pick any one of three voltage settings. This is instead of a manual adjustable pot knob, such as found on some PowerMax converters.

So in this case the requirement is for 11 instead of 3 settings by click instead of twirl a knob.

With a knob pot, you have to set the voltage with the charger not yet connected to the battery. Say you set 14.8. As soon as you connect to the battery that needs recharging, the voltage seen at either end of the connecting wires will be less than 14.8, and the voltage at the charger will be a little higher due to voltage drop. No problem--it will all come out right in the end.

So when you leave the battery connected, but want to set the charger at 14.8, you can't. So the trick is to mark 14.8 by the knob pointer when it is not connected. So when connected and the voltage is 14.2 or whatever, just dial it to your 14.8 mark and it will come out right for the recharge. I have 14.8 and 13.6 marked by my PowerMax adjustable's knob for that reason.

Mex wants to have 11 clickable settings for that job instead of using a marker pen on the charger around its pot knob. Seems like a lot of work, but whatever.
-------

BTW, Some folks want a voltage sensing wire to get the battery voltage showing at the charger.

But that voltage drop gets smaller as current tapers, so by the time the battery is nearly full, there is hardly any voltage drop. So who cares about this magic sensing wire? It doesn't help you with anything I can figure out.
theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Apr 17, 2018
First, checking the spec on Meanwell RSP procucts, you ar going to need a RSP-1500-15 to get close to 130A output ! I am pretty certain this is the largest power supply they make that still runs on 120V. It has a max power input of 17A so will a typical 120V 15A breaker hold ?

Now some good news ! The supply DOES have remote voltage sensing ! I strongly suggest that it is used. This particular power supply has remote voltage programming via a resistor across 2 of the control pins. The is a chart on page 4 of the spec sheet that shows the resistance require to go from 70% of the rated voltage (10.5V) to 100% (15V).

Can't get much easier than that.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Apr 17, 2018
Jeez I'm looking for YOUR ideas and perspective -- I know mine! :)

Yes I am using the Hirose optional plugs and 26 gauge wire.

But again YOUR commemts. I don't need numbers just opinions and wishful ideas.
landyacht318
Explorer
Apr 17, 2018
The meanwell rsp series has user optional voltage sense lines for both + and - and can adjust upto 0.5v iirc.

I did not bother hooking mine up, though it would reduce the pot twiddling required when i want max amps for as long as possible and crank it higher than 15v to get them.

I'd say battery tempeature compensation is just as if not more important than accounting for voltage drop, especially at high recharge ates where the battery can heat rapidly.
pnichols
Explorer II
Apr 17, 2018
David,

Here's my comments from another thread of yours - that may be relevant here too:

"As usual, the one thing missing is that the termination of the charger's voltage control loop is not right at the terminals of the battery(ies) being charged.

What I want is a battery charging setup in which whenever I dial in 14.4volts (or whatever volts) using knobs/buttons on the charger ... that's exactly what winds up on the battery(ies) terminals regardless of the size of the wire running between the charger and the battery(ies). Of course this requres a charger also with knobs/buttons to set maximum current so as to not burn up the wiring and not to exceed the current capability of the charger.

The reason for the above is that I'm pretty sure that when battery manufacturers specify charging voltages, the voltage they're referring to is voltage being maintained on the battery terminals - not voltage at the charger. It takes a separate wire feeding back from right on the battery terminals to the control circuits in the charger to do this."

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11 Fixed Voltage Settings For a 130 Ampere Charger

49 Replies

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