110V AC & 12V DC layout plans
Hi everyone, I'm working on my very first DIY camper conversion, using a 2010 extended Ford E250. Right now I'm working on the AC/DC layout, panel, circuits, outlets, equipment etc... take a ...
Forum Discussion
Your 120V setup looks pretty good. There's not a whole lot to it, nor much needed, which makes things nice and easy.
Basically, you need a transfer switch whenever there are or could be more than one 120V AC supplies that are wired to power a single circuit. Plugging the shore power cord into the generator is one good way of eliminating the need for a separate transfer switch (and the system that TakingThe5th described is basically the same thing).
I note that you show both a 30A and a 15A power inlet. You would need some sort of a transfer switch there if you have both, since plugging in one would otherwise energize the other. That could lead to all sorts of evil things. (If, for example, you have a generator connected to the 15A connection when you plug in the 30A one, you have the generator energized...or, if the power is out, you backfeed the electrical grid. Also, you could end up with exposed energized male plugs, ready to shock the unsuspecting.) I would only have the 30A inlet and use an adapter when needed.
The fridge uses somewhere in the vicinity of 300W on AC. It would make sense to wire it and the converter to the same breaker. If you ever use an inverter, that breaker is one circuit that you would definitely not want the inverter to power.
If you're buying new materials, I'd suggest making all the circuits either 15A or all 20A so you don't have to buy two different gauges of wire; a single larger roll of one size is cheaper than two smaller rolls of two different sizes. I'd go with 20A myself, though either one ought to be perfectly acceptable. (You do of course need to have 10 gauge wire for the 30A inlet, up to the main breaker.)
The 12V setup looks fine for a start, but there's still a good bit more to be added. Offhand you'll need a 12V circuit for the fridge, another for the exhaust fan, one for the water pump (which could perhaps be shared with something), one for a radio and/or TV connection if you want those, one to power the LP gas detector (and CO detector if you don't use one with its own battery), etc. I'd also suggest putting in a few lighter sockets in convenient places for cell phone chargers and whatnot, even though many commercial RVs lack them and suffer for it.
You may want to install a battery disconnect switch (usually a latching solenoid with a remote control) for storage. You also probably want to have some sort of an isolator setup with a charge line from the chassis electrical system so the house batteries charge while you're driving. There are a number of setups for this of varying complexities; it's possible that the van may even have some wiring etc. already built in, particularly if it has a tow package.
Basically, you need a transfer switch whenever there are or could be more than one 120V AC supplies that are wired to power a single circuit. Plugging the shore power cord into the generator is one good way of eliminating the need for a separate transfer switch (and the system that TakingThe5th described is basically the same thing).
I note that you show both a 30A and a 15A power inlet. You would need some sort of a transfer switch there if you have both, since plugging in one would otherwise energize the other. That could lead to all sorts of evil things. (If, for example, you have a generator connected to the 15A connection when you plug in the 30A one, you have the generator energized...or, if the power is out, you backfeed the electrical grid. Also, you could end up with exposed energized male plugs, ready to shock the unsuspecting.) I would only have the 30A inlet and use an adapter when needed.
The fridge uses somewhere in the vicinity of 300W on AC. It would make sense to wire it and the converter to the same breaker. If you ever use an inverter, that breaker is one circuit that you would definitely not want the inverter to power.
If you're buying new materials, I'd suggest making all the circuits either 15A or all 20A so you don't have to buy two different gauges of wire; a single larger roll of one size is cheaper than two smaller rolls of two different sizes. I'd go with 20A myself, though either one ought to be perfectly acceptable. (You do of course need to have 10 gauge wire for the 30A inlet, up to the main breaker.)
The 12V setup looks fine for a start, but there's still a good bit more to be added. Offhand you'll need a 12V circuit for the fridge, another for the exhaust fan, one for the water pump (which could perhaps be shared with something), one for a radio and/or TV connection if you want those, one to power the LP gas detector (and CO detector if you don't use one with its own battery), etc. I'd also suggest putting in a few lighter sockets in convenient places for cell phone chargers and whatnot, even though many commercial RVs lack them and suffer for it.
You may want to install a battery disconnect switch (usually a latching solenoid with a remote control) for storage. You also probably want to have some sort of an isolator setup with a charge line from the chassis electrical system so the house batteries charge while you're driving. There are a number of setups for this of varying complexities; it's possible that the van may even have some wiring etc. already built in, particularly if it has a tow package.
