16.5 inch rims thinking of changing

That took some serious Google-Fu. Maybe try these guys - http://www.mopartruckparts.com/group-21.html - their site shows they have wheels, Wheel, 8 Lug 16.5 Motorhome $45.00 I know nothing other than what I found on their website. The listed e-mail is info@mopartruckparts.com, phone number is 9 AM - 9 PM Pacific time 530 554-4528 Shingle Springs California?

I wouldn't try to convert your axle. From my quick searches, looks like you probably have a Dana 70 rear axle. Great piece of iron. Unfortunately, it pre-dates any of the modernized wheel spacings. It also appears it used the common 8 on 6 1/2" bolt spacing, so there is a good chance wheels from any of the major automakers before the metric bolt circles should (man I HATE! that word) work. Assuming the lug diameter and the center hole size fits...

As for going to a 17" wheel as opposed to a 16" wheel, the difference is pretty much insignificant. 16 1/2" tires are becoming harder to find, so if you have to replace wheels anyway, then it's probably not a bad idea.

Another possibility is having your existing wheels reconditioned. A lot of repairs are possible, but it's not a common service, and you may pay as much in two way shipping as just replacing them.

I agree with Mex last post, I absolutely love 19.5" wheels and tires, but I don't know if you want to invest that kind of money, just over $250 each per wheel, and the tires are expensive, too. I use them on our smaller trucks at work, but they sit at over 17,000 lbs all the time.

As someone that used to have 7 (one was spare) 16.5 rims, count my vote to change them. 16s are easier to find, and 17s are coming on but are still more expensive. If you go to Southwest Wheel, and look around you will find that you have options. You may have to do some measuring, and they should be able to cross you to a replacement wheel in 6x16. You should still try to find out what went wrong.

You can possibly find correct wheels at a wrecking yard or seven, but they will be beat up and may even be damaged.

Matt

I fell in love with 19.5" wheels because with load range G tires, they offer a truly dramatic improvement in stability especially on grooved asphalt and when encountering cross winds.

But it has been many years since I have even looked at 19.5" tires and have no idea whatsoever if they are still reasonably popular. I pushed this size to a friend who replaced the 16" wheels on his dually extra heavy one ton. He was getting 35,000 - 40,000 miles using Michelins. Last I heard (many years ago) he was at 60,000 miles and quote "Nowhere near wearing them out".

Negatives: Speedometer recalibration a must and the lower effective numerical gearing means less power for takeoffs. Only the owner can determine if this would be a problem. Some rigs would see a significant gas mileage increase.

Barry's Tire Tech is an OP here called capriracer. He offers information about the switch.

He discusses Dually Spacing, also called Offset. There are Offset specs in his info, but not an illustration of it. Drawings aren't so easy to find, but I'll look and post what I can find. The spec "offset" is NOT the distance between the sidewalls. That distance results from the wheel offset (aka dually spacing) and the tire size and profile. Being able to determine the offset, then using Barry's chart, saves you from getting tires and wheels only to mount them up and find there isn't enough sidewall distance..

All Right Then! This should cover Spacing/Offset for you


The "Dual Spacing", taking in BOTH rims, is the Offset Spec, and you can take that to Barry's chart. If you have one wheel, you can lay it on its flat center and measure to the CENTER of the Rim, between the two BEADS, NOT the low spot you see in the above pic. In other words, from what would be the dead center of the tire's TREAD once mounted. That measure is HDS (Half Dual Spacing) and you'd double that, look at Barry's chart, and be able to tell if your tires will mount on the wheels you're looking at. WITHOUT being too close!!! If they appear separated at rest, they can still bulge from dips in the road. If those sidewalls get to "kissing" they WILL destroy the tires.

ladynic73 wrote:
ok, mexicowanderer, I have seen a lot of people going to the 16" rims, but have also been told that the larger 17" rims would be better able to hold the heavier weight. Why do you recommend going with the smaller rim? Also, thank you for letting me know about the 1" clearance between the sidewalls

I believe Mex said 1/2" narrower, not 1/2" smaller diameter, presumably to help ensure the clearance between the duallies.

If I were getting replacements for 16.5" wheels and thinking about changing the size, I would go for 16" wheels as 16" LT tires are plentiful and more than sufficient in their carrying capacity. The Ford E-series, for instance, has used this size as standard for years. At 80 psi, load range E tires in these sizes are rated to carry 2470 pounds per tire (or more in some of the wider sizes).

If it tore wheels and/or studs up, something was wrong right out of the gate. Wrong wheels, wrong studs/nuts (and I kinda doubt that one) or wrong installation. Installation could be not getting the "coined" wheels lined up as required by that indexing pin noted above.

Once again, I kick myself. Saw Dodge-based Class C, dual wheels, with 16" rims on it in a parking lot and let it get away without speaking with the owner or leaving a note.

The appropriate 16" replacement for your 16.5" tires will carry more than your Dodge axle/springs/frame will allow.

The draw to 16" is the much easier availability of tires. But there still are 16.5's available. The Cadillac version would be Firestone TransForce. There are many inexpensive off-brands.

What you want to do with the coach, how far you want travel, and how close are to what kind of tire suppliers, all bear on how much trouble and expense you want to go to. Personally if I did anything I'd find 16" and not make my search worse going to 17". As I said above, 16" is more than capable. Also 16's are easy to find. Why replace one hard to find size with another?

In ANY event, you must find out what went wrong now and correct it with proper OEM style replacements, 16", 17" or whatever. If you don't Learn from History you Will Repeat it!

Expand you search to include Ford wheels for the same years, they used the same wheels. DO NOT remove the location pin if you continue to use the OE wheels for the that year. The pin forces you to align the wheels correctly. They have every other hole raised and recessed, they have to line up to stay tight when dualled, they also are hub piloted and use acorn nuts. You can go to the newer flat wheels, you will have to remove the relocation pin and go to flange nuts. You can not mix them, it is all or nothing.

ok, mexicowanderer, I have seen a lot of people going to the 16" rims, but have also been told that the larger 17" rims would be better able to hold the heavier weight. Why do you recommend going with the smaller rim? Also, thank you for letting me know about the 1" clearance between the sidewalls

If your hubs and wheels have the locator pin for clocking the inners and outers then you need to be aware of it when shopping for wheels. I have never heard of metric light truck stud issues with regard to metric pushing USS out of the supply chain.

Refer to the yellow pages. Search out by telephone NAPA stores in your area. There will be a larger store somewhere that has inventory for light and medium trucks. This is where you will find all new studs and all new lug nuts.

When purchasing wheels, be certain the replacements are 1/2" narrower (minimum) than the old 16.5 wheels. This is because the 16.5's had a narrower aspect ratio and their sidewalls did not bulge as much loaded as say 235R-16" tires. The rear tire to tire sidewall inner clear must not be closer than 1", when the vehicle is on the ground and is full of gas fully loaded.

This comes from the School of Hard Knocks...

Keep looking. Dodge.now Ram, dealer should be able to get what you need or point you in the right direction.
Replacing the wheels and hubs would be a big and costly project.