De-winterized the RV (Ford chassis) yesterday. Put the buttom plastic drain plug in, switched from bypass to normal. Filled the tank, at the end started gushing out of the top connection. First thought: freeze up. But then: that would not occur on top of the tankI will get the make and model of the heater a bit later. First searching for DIY instructions, came across one video showing an Anode Rod for corrosion protection, and the recommendation to change that often. Have not been aware of it, never changed. Is this the likely cause (anode corrosion rod worn, no tank corroded, creating the leak)?

1995? If original, time for a new one. I read somewhere that water heaters (propane/electric) have an average life-span of 15 year. Might be true.

The model is G6A-7E. Looks like (electric ignition, not the pilot light version) its a 6 gal, around $400 to replace. No sense even checking WHAT created the leak and if fixable?

Is the Atwood 96121 the compatible replacement? It seems they have switched their model name system. The 96121 I found also as Atwood G6A-8E (vs 7E of the current) and G6A8E DSI.

What top connection? On the outside you have the drain plug and up top you have a pressure valve. The inside of the tank has two connectors (inlet/outlet). All the plumbing parts are std/replaceable and found at most hardware stores. I wouldn't rush out an replace the hot water tank just because it's old - not if it's just a valve that needs replacing.

Leaking from behind pressure valve.

1995 Fleetwood Tioga Montara - hot water tank leak

vtraudt
Explorer
Jul 17, 2016
1/2 PB is the grey (now banned from homes) stuff, 1/2 Schedule 40 is the black pipe. Boy are those PB to PEX (and PEX itself) DIY (push lock) fittings expansive.
If history is correct, likely need to convert the entire RV from PB to PEX. In this case, better get the PEX compression tool to use those cheap crush rings and fitting; the DIY are about the price of silver (per weight). Hope I have enough space to get the PB to PEX converter, PEX pipe, PEX 90, pipe, PEX female 1/2 inch all in there!
vtraudt
Explorer
Jul 17, 2016
Ok, those grey lines are Polybutylene.
Not used anymore.
Likely need to convert to Pex for the elbow there.
See if I can find a DIY (sharkbite) converter from PB (not sure what the size is called, will measure the OD and hope to find a naming table based on OD) 90 degree elbow to the tank thread.
vtraudt
Explorer
Jul 17, 2016
New tank arrived.
Installed ok, but hot water (top of tank) wing nut plastic pipe nut broke off.
Without an RV supplier/repair shop nearby: suggestions how to fix?
I am not a plumber, so don't know how those grey plastic lines are called, what diameter they are, no DIY connections can be made to them (the current are what I would call "crimp on" rings on the plastic to the 90 degree elbow with the (broken) wing nut.

Any suggestions how to fit (and what they are called) on there to replace?

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/KraftwerkTurbo/IMG_3924_zpsak27zfee.jpg
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jul 10, 2016
Tank is aluminum and can be welded.

New TANK part number for a G6A-7E is: 91641

Atwood part number 96121 is for complete water heater (7E vs 8E or 9E SAME...just different production years)

A 1995 vintage is best served by WHOLE replacement.......new water heater vs just new tank BUT that crack can be welded.
Tank had to have frozen for that crack to occur
turbojimmy
Explorer
Jul 10, 2016
vtraudt wrote:
Crack in water tank:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/36n4ejuxsxq6u3t/IMG_3894.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rpui4yv1z884n1k/IMG_3895.JPG?dl=0

That'll do it. At least there's no mystery to solve.
vtraudt
Explorer
Jul 10, 2016
Crack in water tank:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/36n4ejuxsxq6u3t/IMG_3894.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rpui4yv1z884n1k/IMG_3895.JPG?dl=0
dougrainer
Nomad
Jul 10, 2016
vtraudt wrote:
Leaking from behind pressure valve.

If leaking BEHIND the TP valve then it has frozen. There is NO anode rod for an Atwood Water Heater. Only Suburban water heaters have Anode rods. There is no correct or set area when a Atwood inner tank freezes and expands and cracks. Doug
turbojimmy
Explorer
Jul 10, 2016
vtraudt wrote:
Leaking from behind pressure valve.

Sounds done then. Did you remove the pressure valve to see if maybe you can get a better look at what's going on? Sure sounds like a freeze-up. The pressure relief valve went bad on mine last year and I replaced it without issue - but it was leaking out the valve not behind it. Mine's 34-years-old and works fine.
vtraudt
Explorer
Jul 10, 2016
Leaking from behind pressure valve.
ksg5000
Explorer
Jul 10, 2016
What top connection? On the outside you have the drain plug and up top you have a pressure valve. The inside of the tank has two connectors (inlet/outlet). All the plumbing parts are std/replaceable and found at most hardware stores. I wouldn't rush out an replace the hot water tank just because it's old - not if it's just a valve that needs replacing.

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1995 Fleetwood Tioga Montara - hot water tank leak

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