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Ron_Nielson's avatar
Ron_Nielson
Explorer
Jul 13, 2015

20 Amp Circuit to Support 2nd A/C Unit

I'm pretty sure one of you have already done this the easiest way, so no need for me to reinvent the wheel, right?

My trailer is a 30 amp system, so I believe the easiest/cheapest method is to add another 20 amp circuit specifically to run the 2nd a/c unit I plan to add.

I considered just adding a 20 amp extension cord plugged directly into park power, but I believe most parks will have the 30 amp circuit and the 20 amp circuit fed from the same 30 amp source and that may not be enough to run 2 units (and other electrical appliances) at the same time. Of course, at the time you are running both a/c units it is 105 * and it's going to be that way for hours, so is everyone else around you and the available volts/amps may not be up to standards, so I feel it is important to have a setup that is at least somewhat tolerant of the situation. Some have told me that the shore power 30 amp circuit and 20 amp circuit are fed from different sources. True? What I have been able to read about is that modern 50-30-20 amp service has one source for the 50 amp service, another source feeding the 30 and 20 am services.

Option #1
Starting from the park's power to the a/c unit, perhaps use a 50 amp to double 30 amp dogbone from the park power pedestal, 30 amp extension cord to the trailer thru-wall connector (has to be added), add breaker box with 20 amp breaker, then hardwire 20 amp circuit to the a/c unit.

Option #2
Change out my 30 amp cord to a 50 amp cord. Use one leg of the service to tie into the existing 30 amp power center; use the other leg adding a separate breaker box with 20 amp breaker to power the 2nd a/c unit. If I happen to be at a park with only 30 amp service,I could use a 50 to 30 adapter. Just have to be sure that when wiring the 50 amp cord to power center, I use the side that will be powered thru the 30 amp adapter. (Do all adapters do this the same way?)

A good thing about option #1 is 1) I have 50 amp service when I need to run my 2nd a/c and 2)when I don't need both a/c units, I just plug my existing 30 amp cord into the 30 amp service. A down side to this is that the 50 to 30 dogbone is not cheap ($100+)compared to other adapters I have purchased and I have to add the thru-wall connecter. For option #2, changing out the cord to 50 amp has it's costs (50 amp power cord is $125+) and handling the 50 amp cord year round has it's downsides, big, bulky, doesn't want to bend in cold weather, takes more room to store (I will probably have to make a different storage area for it), etc.

So who has done this or something similar and would offer suggestions or improvements or alternatives?

28 Replies

  • You're correct with your verbiage, and that is the consideration. My GUESS (and it's only that) is that MOST parks will do it the cheapest way, and that would be wired downstream, and you only have 30 amps total available. Now 30 amps is PROBABLY enough at 120 volts, but what happens when it's really low and the voltage drops to say 110, or 106? You'd need more than 33 or 34 amps to provide 3600 watts total.

    And YES, I'd like to know the voltages also. And they're going to be all over the place, so which is the safest and most versatile setup? When the weather is nice, I won't need the 2nd a/c unit to run, but when it's miserably hot and everyone is running as much electricity as they can get, and not knowing exactly how each park is wired, which setup will work the best?

    It seems to me that because the setups at the parks are different, it's best to plan for the poorest setup and be safe.
  • Ron Nielson wrote:
    enblethen wrote:
    I would run the separate 20 amp cord.
    Only time you should have any issue is when the parks voltage is low.


    OK, from the power pedestal, how would that be constructed? I assume that this is plugged into the 20 amp receptacle, which shares a power source with the 30 amp circuit.

    The question is not whether they share the same power source. The question is whether the 20 amp breaker is wired in parallel to the 30 amp breaker, or is the 20 amp breaker wired down stream (i.e. in series with) of the 30 amp breaker. And I would guess there is no way to know without testing each to know which way any given park is wired. Wired in parallel you would have up to 50 amps available. Wired down stream you would only have a total of 30 amps available.
    Wired from the same source probably just means from the same hot leg so that there would not be 240 vac difference between the two.
  • Related Question

    Being I might as well be living on Mars, I have no idea of how common 50-ampere 4 wire service is up there. Is it almost universal in developed RV parks? More common in the more affluent regions in the US?

    Myself I sure would want to see voltage numbers between L1 & L0 and L2 and L0 before allowing the voltage into the rig. A weatherproof double gauge set n the outside near the shore power cord inlet?
  • When I had my fifth wheel, it only had one roof A/C. When I moved to Texas, it was not enough to cool it. I bought a portable A/C and I just feed the wire through the small opening of the window and plugged it in the pedestal. No problem with the circuit for the whole summer. I bet you can do the same with the second roof A/C.
  • The pedestal should have two breakers, a 30 amp and a 20 amp.
    Inside the rig, locate if installed the power cable to the location of the new to be installed AC unit. Extend it to a location that is accessible on the exterior of the rig near where the existing shore power cord enter. Install a male 20 amp cord body. You would then need to plug into a standard heavy duty #12 extension cord.
    The pedestal should be wired with sufficiently sized conductors to support both the 30 and 15/20 amp GFCI receptacle. Chances of your rig maxing out the 30 is not likely.
    Installation of a 50 amp system into the rig is not cost effective.
  • The safest way of doing it would be to upgrade from 30 amp to 50 amp.
    I would have a RV Tech do the upgrade, unless you can find an electrician that KNOWS how to wire a RV.

    Yes it means spending a little more money, but it would be the safest way to do it.
  • enblethen wrote:
    I would run the separate 20 amp cord.
    Only time you should have any issue is when the parks voltage is low.


    OK, from the power pedestal, how would that be constructed? I assume that this is plugged into the 20 amp receptacle, which shares a power source with the 30 amp circuit.
  • I would run the separate 20 amp cord.
    Only time you should have any issue is when the parks voltage is low.

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