2020 grey wolf TH poor AC

Grit dog wrote:
I realize comprehension is low sometimes on this forum, as I’m the only one who apparently picked up on you saying your AC blowing 70deg air out of it.

So you’re trading in a trailer with a bad air conditioner for one with basically the same unless you go 50A dual AC but with a working AC?
Even if you don’t want to diagnose why your AC is putting out room temp air, if you can use basic hand tools and reconnect 3 wire nuts back to the same wires, you can fix your problem in about an hour just by buying a new AC.
And you can weather proof the stuff a bit for a bit more efficiency just like you’d want to with any RV. Especially if you’re trying to live in a gray sardine can in some of the hottest weather in the country.

This be like the guy who’s gonna spend $2700 for 70ah more battery capacity….why?

I saw his post about 70 degrees. He is in 95 plus temps. 1 AC on a large trailer. How cold do you think his output should be? 70 degrees with 83 to 88 input is just about right. RV AC units the temp differential is 18 to 21. So, if you have warm/hot input, then 68 to 70 shows the unit is working as best it can. Yes, he needs an amp draw
on the compressor to verify his units charge. Doug

I realize comprehension is low sometimes on this forum, as I’m the only one who apparently picked up on you saying your AC blowing 70deg air out of it.

So you’re trading in a trailer with a bad air conditioner for one with basically the same unless you go 50A dual AC but with a working AC?
Even if you don’t want to diagnose why your AC is putting out room temp air, if you can use basic hand tools and reconnect 3 wire nuts back to the same wires, you can fix your problem in about an hour just by buying a new AC.
And you can weather proof the stuff a bit for a bit more efficiency just like you’d want to with any RV. Especially if you’re trying to live in a gray sardine can in some of the hottest weather in the country.

This be like the guy who’s gonna spend $2700 for 70ah more battery capacity….why?

I agree it’s a good idea to pop the cover off and make sure the AC doesn’t have any gaps. There are some options for you to help make the AC run cooler. Those include adding some sun deflection/insulation. Even changing the direction pointed can make a difference. Consider adding tinting to the windows if you don’t have it. Just simple to install film from Home Depot or similar can keep more sun out.

Things we've found to work include sunshade awnings, reflectix in the windows/skylights or covering the skylights. You don't have to leave them in place all day, but they can do a lot to reduce the heat in the hottest part of the day.

Assuming you are an early riser, make sure you cool off the inside as much as possible.

What size TH are we talking about and what size BTU unit? I'd be surprised if one is enough unless it's the short model.

Hondo99 wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
Many RVs simply do not have enough A/C.. But when you say you checked topside. Did you remove the covers and look at the FAN side of the evaporator coils.

Most A/Cs blow air through the condenser so any "Crud" that builds up on the condenser is hidden where you can't see it.

Colemans Suck. so you can easily see that they need cleaning. and it's easier to do.

I’ve already tried! Believe me ! It’s getting traded in over Labor Day weekend, if sales are good ??

I think you're going to find that all the trailers are pretty much the same. They all use the same insulation on 2 inch thick wall. And they all use the same 13,500 or 15,000 BTU AC units. So if you are going to go trailer shopping be aware that a different trailer will probably have the same outcome and you will again be hot and disappointed and out a bunch of money..

If you look at something with more insulation you might like the Northwood Mfg Desert Fox. It may be better insulated but still has only one AC unit so it's going to struggle in the heat. And being a toy hauler it's going to dump all the cold air out if you open that rear door for any reason.

You would probably be better off financially and cooling wise looking into adding a second AC unit to your current trailer.

All those things mentioned plus the Florida heat wave are obviously not helping.
But none of that matters because you know something is wrong with the AC unit if it’s pumping out 70 deg air.

dougrainer wrote:
The plain simple fact is, 1 AC will NOT cool a RV over 26 foot, especially if you have slide rooms. Does NOT make a difference of BTU of AC unit. Are you ON 30 amp and only have a 30 amp RV. or do you have 50 amp service using a 30 amp Shore CG receptacle? Don't blame the AC or FR, Blame the dealer that ordered this size unit without 2 AC units. You may have AC operation problems or installation/ductwork problems, but does not matter as I stated, you have an inadequate AC system. Doug

yup I agree completely. shortly after we bought our Outback 295RE (32 ft double slide) Keystone added provisions for a second AC unit and made 50A service optional. Note I said "after".

But ours is a single unit Coleman Mach III. With all the mod's I've done it is barely adequate for us in our climate. A climate that usually sees night time temps in the high 50's, low 60's, even in august and usually stays below 90 in the day. for those conditions it can keep the trailer at a set temp but runs most of the time. If we hit days with temps in the high 90's and high night temps, it won't hold temp, and will rise in the afternoon. And on these hot days it's usually noon before it's above 85. A few years ago we were camping when day highs were 105, night lows in the high 70's and by 10am was pushing 90. It was miserable, AC ran constantly and inside temps peaked in the mid 80's and even by 10pm was uncomfortably hot.

As shipped without my mods to clean up and insulate the ducting, add more ducts, improve airflow even temps pushing the mid 80's would cause the AC to struggle. And even improving airflow has a limited affect. more air movement but the same cooling BTU so can help cool down rate some, but not ultimate heat extraction once airflow reaches a certain point.

The plain simple fact is, 1 AC will NOT cool a RV over 26 foot, especially if you have slide rooms. Does NOT make a difference of BTU of AC unit. Are you ON 30 amp and only have a 30 amp RV. or do you have 50 amp service using a 30 amp Shore CG receptacle? Don't blame the AC or FR, Blame the dealer that ordered this size unit without 2 AC units. You may have AC operation problems or installation/ductwork problems, but does not matter as I stated, you have an inadequate AC system. Doug

Hopefully Dometic and Forest River read this stuff!

wa8yxm wrote:
Many RVs simply do not have enough A/C.. But when you say you checked topside. Did you remove the covers and look at the FAN side of the evaporator coils.

Most A/Cs blow air through the condenser so any "Crud" that builds up on the condenser is hidden where you can't see it.

Colemans Suck. so you can easily see that they need cleaning. and it's easier to do.

I’ve already tried! Believe me ! It’s getting traded in over Labor Day weekend, if sales are good ??

Hondo99 wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
Many RVs simply do not have enough A/C.. But when you say you checked topside. Did you remove the covers and look at the FAN side of the evaporator coils.

Most A/Cs blow air through the condenser so any "Crud" that builds up on the condenser is hidden where you can't see it.

Colemans Suck. so you can easily see that they need cleaning. and it's easier to do.

It was clean, fins good , temp sensor good.

Yes! Undersized and bad insulation!
It is 2023 already should be using spray foam insulation! It been around 10 plus years!
Won’t buy another Forest River Grey Wolf!